If you want healthy garden soil, you’ve probably heard about using worms. But not all worms are the same. Understanding the difference between compost worms vs earthworms is key to using them effectively. Each type has a unique job in your garden’s ecosystem. Picking the right one can make a huge difference in your soil’s health and your plant’s vitality.
This guide will break down everything you need to know. We’ll look at their habits, their favorite foods, and the specific benefits they bring. By the end, you’ll know exactly which wriggly helper is best for your compost bin and which belongs directly in your garden beds.
Compost Worms vs Earthworms
At first glance, they might look similar. But compost worms and earthworms are different species with different lifestyles. Think of it like this: one is a specialized recycler for concentrated waste, and the other is a deep-soil engineer for your entire garden.
Meet the Compost Worm (The Epigeic Worm)
Compost worms are surface dwellers. They live in the top few inches of material rich in decaying organic matter. Their mission is to break down waste quickly. You’ll find them naturally in leaf litter, manure piles, and, of course, compost bins.
Common types include:
- Red Wigglers (Eisenia fetida): The superstar of worm composting. They’re hardy, reproduce quickly, and have a big appetite.
- European Nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis): A bit larger than red wigglers. They handle cooler temperatures well and are also great for composting and fishing.
These worms thrive in confined, moist environments with a constant supply of fresh food scraps. They are not typically found in ordinary garden soil because it doesn’t have the dense, rotting food they need.
Meet the Earthworm (The Endogeic & Anecic Worm)
These are the worms you find when digging in your garden. They are soil natives. Their life is spent burrowing through mineral soil, consuming soil and organic matter as they go. Their work aerates the soil and creates nutrient-rich castings underground.
Main types include:
- Topsoil Earthworms (Endogeic): They live in the upper soil layers. They create horizontal burrows and mix organic matter into the soil.
- Deep-Burrowing Earthworms (Anecic): Like the common Nightcrawler (Lumbricus terrestris). They create permanent, vertical tunnels that can serveral feet deep. They pull leaf litter down from the surface.
Earthworms are the natural tillers of your garden. They improve soil structure from the inside out, but they work more slowly on raw kitchen scraps.
Key Differences Side-by-Side
Habitat & Where They Live
- Compost Worms: Live in dense, decaying organic matter (compost bins, manure piles).
- Earthworms: Live in mineral soil (garden beds, lawns, fields).
Diet & What They Eat
- Compost Worms: Prefer fresh, rotting organic material. They love your fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, and shredded paper.
- Earthworms: Eat a mix of soil and decomposed organic matter already in the soil. They also ingest microbes and fungi.
Burrowing & Soil Movement
- Compost Worms: Do not dig deep burrows. They work the surface layer of their bedding material.
- Earthworms: Create extensive burrow networks. This aerates the soil and improves drainage and root penetration.
Temperature Tolerance
- Compost Worms: Prefer a warmer, managed environment (55-77°F is ideal). They can die off in freezing garden soil.
- Earthworms: Are adapted to local soil temperatures. They burrow deeper to escape heat or cold, becoming dormant if needed.
How to Use Compost Worms in Your Garden
You use compost worms to make a product—vermicompost—that you then add to your garden. Don’t just release them into your beds; they likely won’t survive.
- Set Up a Worm Bin: Use a contained system indoors or outdoors. Add moist bedding like shredded cardboard or coconut coir.
- Add Your Worms: Start with about 1 pound of red wigglers for a typical home bin.
- Feed Them Regularly: Bury kitchen scraps in the bedding. Avoid citrus, onions, and oily foods in large amounts.
- Harvest the Castings: After 3-6 months, the bedding will turn into dark, crumbly worm castings. Separate the worms from the finished compost.
- Apply to Your Garden: Mix the nutrient-rich vermicompost into your planting holes, use it as a top dressing, or brew it into “worm tea” for a liquid fertilizer.
How to Attract and Keep Earthworms in Your Garden
Your goal here is to make your soil so inviting that earthworms move in and thrive on their own.
- Add Organic Matter: Regularly add compost, leaf mold, or well-rotted manure to the soil surface. This is their food.
- Minimize Tilling: Tilling can harm worm burrows and chop up worms. Practice no-dig or low-till gardening to protect their habitat.
- Keep Soil Moist: Earthworms breathe through their skin and need moist soil. Mulching helps retain that crucial moisture.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Synthetic pesticides and fertilizers can harm or kill earthworm populations. Opt for organic methods.
- Check Your Soil pH: Worms prefer a neutral pH. If your soil is very acidic, adding lime can help make it more welcoming.
Can They Work Together?
Absolutely! This is the secret to a truly healthy garden system. You use compost worms to recycle your kitchen waste into super-powered fertilizer. Then, you add that vermicompost to your garden beds. The vermicompost feeds your plants and also feeds the native earthworms. The earthworms then take those nutrients and mix them deep into the soil with their burrows.
It’s a perfect partnership. The compost worms are your waste processing team, and the earthworms are your soil construction crew. One supports the work of the other.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Putting compost worms in garden soil: They often won’t find enough concentrated food and may die or leave.
- Buying earthworms for your compost bin: They won’t process scraps as efficiently and may try to escape the confined space.
- Overfeeding a worm bin: This leads to odors and fruit flies. Only feed what the worms can process in a few days.
- Letting soil dry out: Both types need moisture, but earthworms in dry soil will either leave or perish.
- Assuming worms will fix everything: They are fantastic helpers, but you still need to manage soil health holistically.
FAQ: Your Worm Questions Answered
Can I use regular earthworms for composting?
It’s not recommended. Earthworms are not as efficient at breaking down kitchen scraps in a bin. They are adapted to soil and may not thrive in a compost worm’s environment.
Will red wigglers survive in my garden?
Usually, no. Unless you have a very rich, constantly moist pile of organic matter (like a thick mulch layer), they are not winter-hardy in most climates and lack the deep-burrowing instinct to escape temperature extremes.
How do I know if my garden has enough earthworms?
Do a simple test. Dig a spade-full of soil in a few spots. If you see at least 5-10 worms, your soil biology is likely in good shape. Few or no worms suggests your soil needs more organic matter and less disturbance.
What’s better: worm castings or regular compost?
They are both excellent. Worm castings are richer in certain nutrients and beneficial microbes—think of them as a potent soil supplement. Regular compost is great for bulk soil improvement. Using both gives you the best results.
Can I mix compost worms and earthworms together?
In an outdoor compost pile, you might find both, as it’s a inviting middle ground. But in a contained worm bin, stick to red wigglers or European nightcrawlers for the best outcome.
Choosing between compost worms vs earthworms isn’t about picking a winner. It’s about understanding their roles. For processing food waste, you want compost worms. For improving soil structure directly in your beds, you want to support earthworms. By using both in the right way, you harness the full power of these natural engineers. Your soil will become more fertile, better drained, and full of life—which is the foundation of a truly healthy, productive garden.