Snake Plant Not Growing

If your snake plant not growing, you’re not alone. This common issue frustrates many plant owners because these are famously resilient plants. Let’s figure out why yours is just sitting there and how to get it thriving again.

Snake plants, or Sansevieria, are loved for their tough nature. They tolerate low light and irregular watering. But “tolerant” doesn’t mean “indifferent.” They still have basic needs. When those aren’t met, growth stalls. The fix is usually simple once you know what to check.

First, understand their natural growth cycle. Snake plants are slow growers compared to many houseplants. You might only see a few new leaves per year, even in perfect conditions. A complete lack of growth for 6+ months, however, signals a problem. Let’s troubleshoot the most likely causes.

1. The Light is Too Low

This is the number one reason. While they survive in dim corners, they need light to grow. “Survive” and “thrive” are two different things.

Signs: No new growth, leaves may become stretched or floppy, color may fade.
The Fix: Move your plant to a spot with bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is ideal. A few hours of gentle morning sun is great. They can handle some direct sun, but harsh afternoon rays can scorch leaves.
Tip: If you can comfortably read a book in the spot without a lamp, it’s probably sufficient light.

2. You’re Watering Too Much (Or Too Little)

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm a snake plant. Their roots rot easily in soggy soil. Underwatering, while less dangerous, will also halt growth.

Signs of Overwatering: Yellowing, mushy leaves, soft base, soil that stays wet for weeks.
Signs of Underwatering: Leaves become wrinkled, dry, or crispy at the tips. The soil pulls away from the pot’s edge.
The Fix: Water only when the soil is completely dry. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it’s dry, it’s time to water. Soak the soil thoroughly until water runs out the drainage hole, then let it drain completely. In winter, you might only water every 4-6 weeks.

3. The Pot is the Wrong Size

Snake plants actually like to be a bit root-bound. But there’s a limit. A pot that’s too huge or too tiny causes problems.

Pot Too Large: Excess soil holds too much moisture, leading to root rot. The plant focuses on roots, not leaves.
Pot Too Small: Roots become severely cramped, have no room to expand, and can’t support new growth. You might see roots circling the top or coming out the bottom.
The Fix: Repot only when the plant is bursting its current pot. Choose a new pot only 1-2 inches wider in diameter. Always use a pot with a drainage hole.

4. The Soil is Holding Too Much Moisture

Regular potting soil is often too dense and moisture-retentive for snake plants. They need a fast-draining mix.

Signs: Soil stays damp for a long time after watering, plant shows overwatering symptoms.
The Fix: Repot using a cactus or succulent potting mix. You can make your own by mixing 2 parts regular potting soil with 1 part perlite or coarse sand. This improves drainage dramatically.

How to Repot Your Snake Plant Correctly

Gently remove the plant from its current pot.
Shake off old soil and inspect the roots. Trim any black, mushy roots with clean shears.
Place a layer of fresh, well-draining mix in the new pot.
Set the plant in and fill around it with more mix, firming gently.
Wait about a week before watering to let any disturbed roots heal.

5. It’s Dormant (The Seasonal Pause)

Snake plants go dormant in fall and winter when light levels and temperatures drop. During this time, they stop growing completely. This is normal and not a cause for concern.

What to Do: Reduce watering significantly during dormancy. Hold off on fertilizing. Resume normal care in spring when you see signs of new growth.

6. It Lacks Nutrients (But This is Rare)

Snake plants aren’t heavy feeders. But if your plant has been in the same soil for years, it might have used up available nutrients.

The Fix: Feed sparingly. Use a balanced, general-purpose houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply only once in early spring and once in mid-summer. Never fertilize in fall or winter, or right after repotting.
Warning: Over-fertilizing can burn roots and cause more harm than good. If you see a crusty white buildup on the soil surface, you may be using to much fertilizer.

7. Temperature Stress or Drafts

These tropical plants prefer steady warmth. Cold drafts, hot air vents, or sudden temperature swings can shock them into stasis.

Signs: Stalled growth, sometimes with leaf damage like brown spots or edges.
The Fix: Keep your plant in a room between 60-85°F (15-29°C). Move it away from drafty windows, air conditioners, heating vents, and exterior doors.

8. It’s Simply Getting Old

Sometimes, a very mature, large snake plant will simply slow its growth to a near standstill. It has reached its peak size in its current environment. You can propagate it to create new, vigorous plants.

Quick-Check Troubleshooting List

Light: Is it in a bright spot?
Water: Do you let the soil dry fully between waterings?
Pot: Is it slightly root-bound but not bursting?
Soil: Does it drain quickly?
Season: Is it fall or winter? (Dormancy is okay)
Temperature: Is it away from drafts and vents?

Addressing these factors one by one is the key. Patience is crucial. After you correct an issue, give your plant a full growing season (spring and summer) to respond. New growth often starts from the soil line as a small, pointed spear.

FAQ: Snake Plant Growth Problems

Q: My snake plant hasn’t grown in years. Is it dead?
A: If the leaves are still firm and green (or variegated), it’s likely alive but dormant due to one of the issues above. Check its roots for rot if leaves are soft.

Q: How fast do snake plants normally grow?
A: In ideal conditions, you might see 2-4 new leaves per year. Growth is generally slow and steady, not rapid.

Q: Should I use a grow light?
A> If you have very low natural light, a simple LED grow light for 6-8 hours a day can make a big difference. It’s a great solution for dark rooms.

Q: Can I force my snake plant to grow faster?
A: You can’t force it, but optimizing light, water, and pot size will encourage it to grow at its maximum natural rate. Avoid the temptation to over-fertilize.

Q: Why is my snake plant leaning or falling over?
A> This is usually due to overwatering causing root rot, or sometimes from etiolation (stretching) in too-low light. The weakened structure can’t support the leaves.

Q: When should I give up on a non-growing snake plant?
A: If the central core is mushy and all leaves are yellow or brown, it may be too late. But they are remarkably resilient. Try unpotting it to check the roots. You might be able to save a healthy rhizome (root stem) or leaf for propagation.

Remember, the goal with a snake plant is often steady, architectural beauty rather than explosive growth. By providing just a bit more attention to its core needs—especially light and water—you can break its stagnant phase. Watch for that first new leaf spike; it’s a sure sign your care adjustments are working.