When To Pick Potatoes

Knowing when to pick potatoes is the key to a successful harvest. Get the timing right, and you’ll enjoy the best flavor and storage life from your homegrown tubers. This guide gives you the clear, practical signs to look for so you can harvest with confidence.

Potatoes are unique because you can actually harvest them at different times for different results. You can sneak a few “new” potatoes early in the season, or wait for the full mature crop. Let’s break down the signals your plants give you.

This main heading refers to harvesting your full, mature crop for storage. This is the harvest that will keep in your pantry for months. Timing is based on the plant’s natural lifecycle, not just a date on the calendar.

The Two Biggest Signs Your Potatoes Are Ready

Plants tell you they’re done. Watch for these two clear changes above ground.

Flowering Has Finished: After the potato plant blooms, the energy shifts from growing leaves and flowers to bulking up the tubers underground. Once those blooms fade and drop, the final maturation phase begins.
The Foliage Dies Back: This is the most important visual cue. The leaves and stems will start to turn yellow, then brown, and finally wither. This means the plant has finished its job. The skins on the potatoes underground are setting for storage.

What to Do After the Foliage Dies

Don’t dig immediately! Follow these steps for the best results.

Stop watering the plants once the foliage has mostly yellowed. This helps cure the potatoes in the ground and prevents rot.
Wait 2 to 3 weeks after the tops have completely died back. This critical waiting period allows the potato skins to thicken and harden. Thick skins are essential for long storage and prevent bruising during harvest.
Choose a dry day to harvest. Wet soil can cling to tubers and promote disease.

Harvesting Mature Potatoes: A Step-by-Step Guide

Being careful during harvest prevents damage. Damaged potatoes won’t store well.

Use a digging fork or a spade. Start digging about a foot away from the base of the dead plant to avoid spearing your potatoes.
Loosen the soil gently and then use your hands to sift through the dirt and find the tubers. Pull them out carefully.
Brush off excess soil gently; do not wash them. Washing removes the protective coating and invites rot during storage.
Let the potatoes sit on the dry soil surface for a few hours to air-dry if the sun is out, but don’t leave them in direct sunlight for more than a couple hours, as they can sunburn and turn green.

The Joy of Early Harvest: “New” Potatoes

You don’t have to wait for full maturity. “New” potatoes are a delicious early treat. They have thin, delicate skins and a creamy texture.

How to Know When to Pick New Potatoes

Timing is different for this early harvest. Look for this sign:

The plants have started to flower. This indicates that small, usable tubers have formed. Sometimes you can even carefully feel for them in the soil near the base of the plant.

How to Harvest New Potatoes Without Harming the Plant

The goal is to take just a few tubers and let the plant keep growing.

Gently move soil aside with your hands from the base of the plant.
Feel for smaller tubers and carefully twist them off. Only take one or two per plant so the rest can continue to grow.
Cover the roots back up with soil and water the plant well. It will continue to produce more potatoes for your main harvest later.

Factors That Affect Your Harvest Timing

While plant signs are your best guide, these elements play a role too.

Potato Variety (Type)

Early Varieties: These mature fastest, often in 70-90 days. Their foliage dies back sooner. They’re great for new potatoes and areas with short seasons.
Mid-Season Varieties: These take about 90-110 days to mature. They offer a balance between early harvest and good storage.
Late Varieties: These need 110-135 days or more. They typically store the very best and are often the maincrop types.

Your Local Growing Season

Weather dictates a lot. In cooler climates, you might be waiting for that die-back in early fall. In warmer climates, summer heat will often cause the plants to die back. Always go by the plant’s condition, not just the calendar.

Curing and Storing Your Potato Harvest

Proper post-harvest care is as important as the digging itself. If you want them to last, don’t skip curing.

How to Cure Potatoes

Curing heals minor nicks and further toughens the skin.

Place your dried, unwashed potatoes in a single layer in a dark, well-ventilated place. A garage, shed, or covered porch often works well.
They need moderate humidity and a cool temperature, ideally between 55-65°F (13-18°C).
Leave them to cure for about 10 to 14 days. After this, they’re ready for long-term storage.

Best Practices for Long-Term Storage

Follow these rules to keep your potatoes edible for months.

Keep Them Dark: Light causes potatoes to produce solanine, which turns them green and makes them bitter. Use burlap sacks, cardboard boxes, or paper bags.
Keep Them Cool: The ideal storage temperature is around 40-45°F (4-7°C). A root cellar is perfect, but a cool basement or a dark corner of an unheated garage can work.
Keep Them Ventilated: Avoid sealing them in plastic bags, which traps moisture and causes rot. Baskets or mesh bags are ideal.
Check on them periodically and remove any that have started to soften or sprout.

Common Harvest Mistakes to Avoid

A little knowledge prevents big dissapointments.

Digging Too Early: Thin-skinned potatoes won’t store and will bruise easily. Be patient for the die-back.
Digging When Soil is Wet: This spreads disease and leads to wet, rotting potatoes. Wait for a dry spell.
Using a Rough Tool Carelessly: Stabbing potatoes with a fork creates wounds. Start digging wide and use your hands.
Skipping the Curing Process: Going straight to cold storage without curing leads to quicker spoilage.
Storing Near Onions or Fruit: Onions and fruits like apples release gases that can cause potatoes to sprout prematurely.

FAQ: Your Potato Harvest Questions Answered

Can I harvest potatoes after a frost?

If a light frost blackens the foliage, that’s actually okay and can mimic natural die-back. However, if a hard freeze is expected that will freeze the ground, you should harvest your potatoes immediately, even if the tops aren’t completely dead. Frozen potatoes will ruin.

What if my potato plants never flowered?

Some varieties flower very subtly or not at all. That’s fine. Rely on the foliage die-back and the days-to-maturity estimate for your variety as your primary guides instead.

How long can I leave potatoes in the ground?

Once the skins are set (after the 2-3 week wait post die-back), you can leave them in the ground for a little while if conditions are dry. But don’t leave them too long, especially in wet soil, as they can start to rot or be found by pests.

Why are my harvested potatoes green?

Green potatoes have been exposed to light, either while growing (if not hilled properly) or after harvest. Cut away and discard any green portions, as they can contain solanine. Prevent this by maintaining a good soil hill around plants and storing in total darkness.

Can I eat potatoes right after harvest?

Absolutely! Freshly dug potatoes are delicious. Just remember that for long-term storage, they need the curing process. New potatoes are meant to be eaten immediately and won’t store well due to their thin skins.

Paying attention to your plants is the most reliable method for knowing when to pick potatoes. Watch for the flowers and, most importantly, the yellowing and browning of the vines. By combining these natural signs with the proper aftercare, you’ll be able to enjoy the full rewards of your potato growing efforts for many months to come. A successful harvest is all about observation and a bit of timely action.