How To Prune A Cherry Tree

Knowing how to prune a cherry tree is one of the most important skills for any fruit grower. Proper pruning keeps your tree healthy, shapely, and productive for years to come, ensuring you get those delicious harvests.

This guide walks you through the essential seasonal care. We’ll cover the why, when, and exactly how to make the right cuts. Whether you have a sweet or sour variety, the principles are the same.

With a little annual attention, your cherry tree will thrive.

Pruning isn’t just about cutting branches. It’s about guiding the tree’s growth. The main goals are to maintain an open structure, remove problem wood, and encourage new fruiting spurs.

An open canopy lets in sunlight and air. This improves fruit flavor and color while reducing disease. It also makes picking much easier!

Why Pruning is Non-Negotiable

If you skip pruning, your tree will become a tangled mess. Here’s what happens without it:

Disease Spread: Dense branches trap moisture, inviting fungal infections.
Poor Fruit Quality: Fruit grows in the shade, staying small and sour.
Alternate Bearing: The tree may produce a huge crop one year and almost nothing the next.
Branch Damage: Weak, crowded limbs are more likely to break under a heavy fruit load.

The Golden Rule: When to Prune Cherry Trees

Timing is everything. The safest and best time for major pruning is in late winter to early spring.

Target the period just before new growth starts, but after the worst winter cold has passed. This minimizes disease risk and helps the tree heal fast.

Never prune in fall. Fall cuts heal slowly and are vulnerable to fungal spores. Summer is for light maintenance only, like removing water sprouts.

Seasonal Pruning Calendar

Late Winter (Dormant Season): Main structural pruning, thinning cuts.
Early Spring (Bud Swell): Final dormant pruning, assess winter damage.
Early Summer: Light pruning to remove misplaced new growth.
After Harvest: Only for removing dead or diseased wood if needed.

Tools You’ll Need & How to Prep Them

Using the right, sharp tools makes clean cuts that heal properly. You’ll need:

Bypass hand pruners for small twigs (up to ¾ inch).
Loppers for medium branches (up to 1.5 inches).
A pruning saw for larger limbs.
A sturdy ladder for safe access.

Always sterilize your tools before you start and between trees. Use a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water or rubbing alcohol. This prevents spreading any illness from one branch to another.

The Step-by-Step Pruning Process

Follow these steps in order each year. Start by just observing your tree’s shape.

Step 1: The Clean-Up Cut

First, remove any obviously problematic wood. This clears clutter so you can see the tree’s structure.

Cut out all dead, diseased, or broken branches. Cut back to healthy wood or the branch collar.
Remove any branches that are rubbing or crossing another.
Cut off any suckers growing from the base of the trunk.

Step 2: Thinning for Light and Air

Thinning cuts remove entire branches at their point of origin. This is key for opening the canopy.

Aim for a “vase” or “wine glass” shape with an open center.
Remove branches that grow inward toward the trunk.
Cut out any vertical water sprouts (fast-growing upright shoots).
Space main scaffold branches evenly around the trunk.

Your goal is dappled sunlight to reach all parts of the tree. After thinning, you should able to throw a softball through the canopy without it hitting a branch.

Step 3: Heading Cuts for Direction

Heading cuts shorten a branch by cutting back to a bud. Use these sparingly on cherries to control height and encourage lateral growth.

To shorten a long branch, cut back to an outward-facing bud.
This encourages growth in that direction, keeping the center open.
Avoid excessive heading, as it can cause a thicket of dense growth at the cut ends.

Step 4: Shaping Young vs. Mature Trees

Young Trees (First 3-4 years): Your focus is on building a strong, permanent structure. Choose 3-4 main “scaffold” branches with wide angles. Remove competing leaders.

Mature Trees: Shift to maintenance pruning. Focus on thinning and removing older, unproductive wood to stimulate new fruiting wood. Never remove more than 25% of the canopy in a single year.

How to Make the Perfect Pruning Cut

A bad cut damages the tree. A good cut heals quickly.

For a thinning cut, prune just outside the branch collar (the swollen ring where the branch meets the trunk). Don’t cut flush to the trunk.
For a heading cut, cut at a 45-degree angle about ¼ inch above an outward-facing bud.
Never leave a stub. It will die back and become an entry point for rot.

If a branch is too heavy, use the three-cut method to prevent bark from tearing. Make an undercut first, then a top cut further out, finally removing the stub with a clean cut at the branch collar.

Essential Seasonal Care Beyond Pruning

Pruning is just one part of cherry tree care. Here’s what else to do through the year.

Spring: Feeding and Protecting

After pruning, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the drip line. Water it in well.

Apply a fresh layer of organic mulch, like wood chips, in a donut shape around the base. Keep mulch away from the trunk to prevent rot. This conserves moisture and suppresses weeds.

Monitor for early pests like aphids and use appropriate organic controls if needed.

Summer: Watering and Monitoring

Consistent water is vital, especially once fruit starts to swell. Deep watering once a week is better than frequent sprinkles.

Check for signs of disease like brown leaves or spotted fruit. Netting may be necessary to protect ripening fruit from birds, which is a common challenge for gardeners.

Fall: Clean-Up and Prep

After leaf drop, rake and remove all fallen leaves and old fruit. This destroys overwintering sites for pests and diseases.

Give the tree a deep watering before the ground freezes. This provides essential moisture for the roots over winter. Avoid any fertilization in the fall.

Winter: Planning and Dormant Care

This is your planning time. Inspect the tree’s structure on a calm, clear day. Look for any new cracks or cankers.

Protect young tree trunks from rodent damage with a guard. Apply dormant oil spray on a mild day in late winter to smother overwintering insect eggs.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Over-pruning: Taking off too much at once stresses the tree. Stick to the 25% rule.
Topping the Tree: Lopping off the top to reduce height creates weak, problematic growth. Use selective thinning instead.
Using Dull Tools: This makes ragged cuts that crush stems and heal poorly.
Pruning at the Wrong Time: Fall pruning is a major no-no, as we discussed.
Ignoring the Center: Failing to keep the center of the tree open is the most common error.

FAQ: Your Cherry Tree Pruning Questions Answered

How do you prune an overgrown cherry tree?

Rehabilitate it gradually over 2-3 years. Start by removing all dead/diseased wood. Then, each dormant season, thin out the oldest, thickest branches to open the center. Never try to fix it all in one year.

Can I prune my cherry tree in summer?

Light pruning is okay. Remove water sprouts or branches that are clearly in the way. But save major structural cuts for late winter.

What’s the difference between pruning sweet and sour cherry trees?

Sweet cherries (Prunus avium) often grow more upright and are usually pruned to a central leader or modified leader shape. Sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) are more shrub-like and do well with an open center/vase shape. The basic pruning principles remain very similar though.

How much can I cut off my cherry tree?

For a healthy mature tree, never remove more than 25% of the living canopy in one season. For young trees, even less is better. Its better to be conservative.

Why is my cherry tree oozing sap after pruning?

A little sap from pruning cuts is normal. Excessive oozing, called gummosis, can signal a fungal infection or borer damage. Ensure your cuts are clean and made at the right time. If it persists, consult a local arborist.

Pruning your cherry tree is an act of care that pays back tenfold. With this seasonal guide, you have the confidence to make the right cuts at the right time. Remember, each year you prune, you’re ensuring a healthier tree and a more bountiful harvest for seasons to come. Start with clean tools, follow the steps, and your tree will show its gratitude with beautiful blossoms and tasty fruit.