If you’re looking for a succulent that stops people in their tracks, you’ve found it. The Echeveria Afterglow – stunning purple succulent is a true showpiece for any collection, with its mesmerizing lavender-pink leaves and powdery coating.
This hybrid echeveria is famous for its large, open rosettes that can reach over a foot wide. The color is simply incredible—a blend of lilac, pink, and blue, all dusted with a protective farina that gives it a soft, dreamy look. It’s not the easiest succulent to keep perfect, but with a few key tips, you can help it thrive and show off its best colors.
Echeveria Afterglow – Stunning Purple Succulent
This plant is a hybrid, likely involving Echeveria cante and Echeveria shaviana. It inherits the best traits from its parents: a beautiful shape, striking color, and that coveted powdery bloom. When it’s happy, it can even send up tall flower stalks with coral-pink bells in the warmer months.
Why the Color Changes
The intense purple and pink hues aren’t always constant. They are a response to environmental stress, primarily sunlight and temperature shifts. Don’t worry, this type of stress is good!
* Sunlight: It needs plenty of bright, indirect light or direct morning sun to develop its full color. Without enough light, it will fade to a dull green and start to stretch out.
* Temperature: Cooler temperatures, especially in spring and fall, often intensify the purple tones. A slight chill tells the plant to produce more of those gorgeous pigments.
* The Farina: That dusty coating is called farina. It’s a natural sunscreen and water repellent. Never wipe it off, as it won’t grow back and leaves the plant vulnerable to sunburn.
Perfect Placement and Light Needs
Getting the light right is the single most important thing for keeping your Afterglow stunning. It craves brightness but can be sensitive to intense afternoon heat.
A south or east-facing window is ideal indoors. If you’re growing it outside, aim for a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in hot climates. If you move it into stronger sun, do it gradually over a week or two to prevent scorching. Signs it needs more light include:
* The rosette stretching upwards (etiolation).
* Colors turning pale green or gray.
* New leaves growing smaller and spaced further apart.
Watering Without the Worry
Overwatering is the fastest way to lose this plant. Like most echeverias, it stores water in its thick leaves and prefers a “soak and dry” method.
Here’s the fail-safe watering routine:
1. Check the soil: Stick your finger in the pot. Is the top inch or two completely dry?
2. Soak thoroughly: When dry, take the pot to the sink and water it until water runs freely out the drainage hole. This ensures the roots get a full drink.
3. Let it drain: Never let the pot sit in a saucer of water. Empty it after 15 minutes.
4. Wait again: Don’t water again until the soil is totally dry.
In winter, when the plant is semi-dormant, you might only need to water it once a month or less. Always err on the side of underwatering.
Soil and Potting Essentials
Fast-draining soil is non-negotiable. A standard potting soil will hold too much moisture and cause root rot.
Use a specialized cactus and succulent mix. For even better drainage, you can amend it with:
* Perlite (50/50 mix is a good start)
* Coarse sand
* Pumice
Choose a pot with a drainage hole. Terracotta pots are excellent because they breathe and help soil dry faster. Repot every couple of years in spring to refresh the soil, and be gentle with the leaves to preserve the farina.
Feeding for Vibrant Growth
This plant doesn’t need much fertilizer, but a little boost during the growing season (spring and summer) can support its color and health.
Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply it once at the beginning of spring and maybe once more in mid-summer. Do not fertilize in fall or winter when the plant is not actively growing. Too much fertilizer can cause weak, leggy growth and dull color.
Propagation: Making More Purple Beauties
The good news is you can create new plants from your existing Afterglow. The easiest methods are leaf cuttings and offsets.
By Leaf Cuttings:
1. Gently twist a healthy, plump leaf from the stem. Get the whole base.
2. Let the leaf end callous over for 2-3 days in a shady spot.
3. Place the calloused leaf on top of dry succulent soil.
4. Mist the soil lightly every few days once tiny roots appear.
5. Wait for a new baby rosette to form, which can take several weeks.
By Offsets (Pups):
Sometimes the plant will produce small offsets at its base.
1. Wait until the offset is about a quarter the size of the mother plant.
2. Use a clean, sharp knife to seperate it, trying to include some roots.
3. Let the cut end callous for a day or two.
4. Plant it in its own small pot with dry soil.
5. Wait a week before giving it its first light watering.
Common Problems and Simple Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to fix common problems.
* Pale, Stretched Plant: This means not enough light. Gradually move it to a brighter location.
* Brown, Crispy Leaves: Usually sunburn from too-intense, sudden sun exposure. Move to a spot with gentler light.
* Soft, Mushy Leaves (often at the bottom): Classic sign of overwatering. Stop watering immediately. Check the stem for black rot. You may need to behead the plant above the rot and reroot it.
* Wrinkled, Thin Leaves: The plant is thirsty and needs a good soak.
* Pests: Watch for mealybugs (look like tiny white cotton spots) and aphids. Treat with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or an insecticidal soap.
Winter Care Considerations
If you live in a frost-free climate (USDA zones 9-11), your Afterglow can live outside year-round. For everyone else, it’s best to bring it indoors before the first frost.
Indoors for winter, give it the sunniest spot you have. A cool windowsill is perfect. Water very sparingly, just enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling. The cooler, drier rest period will help it prepare for a vibrant growth spurt in spring.
Design Ideas for Showcasing Your Plant
This succulent’s color makes it a fantastic design element. Its lavender tones pair beautifully with:
* Other succulents in contrasting colors, like blue-green or orange varieties.
* In a simple, modern pot that complements its pink hues.
* As a solitary centerpiece in a decorative container.
* Planted in a garden bed with other drought-tolerant plants for a stunning outdoor display.
Remember, its size means it needs space to shine. Don’t crowd it with to many other plants.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How often should I water my Echeveria Afterglow?
A: Water only when the soil is completely dry, which could be every 7-14 days in summer and much less often in winter. Always check the soil first.
Q: Why is my purple succulent turning green?
A: It’s not getting enough light. Gradually introduce it to a brighter location to bring back the purple and pink colors.
Q: Can I put my Afterglow in full sun?
A: It can tolerate full sun in cooler climates, but in hot areas, intense afternoon sun can scorch it. Morning sun with afternoon shade is often the safest bet.
Q: What’s the white powder on the leaves?
A: That’s farina, a natural protective coating. Avoid touching the leaves, as it doesn’t grow back and its absence can lead to sun damage.
Q: Is the Echeveria Afterglow safe for pets?
A: While generally non-toxic, echeverias can cause mild stomach upset if ingested by cats or dogs. It’s best to keep it out of their reach.
Caring for an Echeveria Afterglow is a rewarding experience. When you provide the right balance of light, careful watering, and well-draining soil, it will reward you with its extraordinary, otherworldly beauty for years to come. It’s a plant that truly lives up to its name, glowing with color in your home or garden.