If you’re looking for a stunning and unusual houseplant to add to your collection, the philodendron atabapoense is a fantastic choice. This rare tropical houseplant is known for its elegant, elongated leaves and manageable care routine, making it a prize for indoor gardeners.
Native to the rainforests of southern Venezuela and Brazil, it climbs trees in its natural habitat. This tells us a lot about what it needs to thrive in our homes: humidity, support, and bright, indirect light. While it might seem intimidating, it’s actually quite adaptable once you understand its basic needs.
Philodendron Atabapoense
This plant is often confused with its relative, Philodendron billietiae, due to similar leaf shapes. However, the atabapoense has some distinct features. Its leaves are a deep, velvety green on top with a striking maroon or burgundy underside. This two-tone effect is especially beautiful when the plant is backlit by a window.
The leaves are long and narrow, often growing over a foot in length as the plant matures. It’s a climber, so providing a moss pole or similar support will encourage larger leaves and a more impressive, vertical display. Without support, it will grow in a more trailing manner.
Essential Care Requirements
Getting the basics right is the key to a healthy plant. Let’s break down the core elements of philodendron atabapoense care.
Light
This plant prefers bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight it would receive under the jungle canopy. An east or west-facing window is usually ideal.
- Avoid direct afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves.
- Too little light will result in slow growth and smaller leaves.
- If you only have lower light, consider supplementing with a grow light.
Watering
Watering is where many plant lovers go wrong. This philodendron likes to dry out a bit between waterings.
- Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until it runs out the drainage holes, then empty the saucer.
- Reduce watering frequency in the winter when growth slows.
Overwatering is the most common cause of problems, leading to root rot. Yellowing leaves are often a first sign.
Soil & Potting
A well-draining, airy potting mix is non-negotiable. You can use a high-quality aroid mix or make your own.
A simple recipe is:
- 2 parts regular potting soil
- 1 part perlite
- 1 part orchid bark (or coco chips)
Always use a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are great because they help wick away extra moisture from the soil.
Humidity & Temperature
As a tropical plant, it appreciates higher humidity levels (above 60%). Average home humidity is often lower, especially in winter.
- Use a humidifier near your plant for the best results.
- You can also place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water.
- Grouping plants together creates a more humid microclimate.
Keep it in a warm spot, between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature drops.
Propagation Guide
Sharing or expanding your collection is easy through stem cuttings. The best time to do this is during the active growing season (spring or summer).
- Identify a healthy stem with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots grow from) and one or two leaves.
- Using clean, sharp scissors or pruners, cut just below a node.
- You can root the cutting in water or moist sphagnum moss. Place it in a bright, warm spot.
- If using water, change it every few days. Roots should appear in a few weeks.
- Once the roots are a few inches long, pot the cutting in your aroid soil mix.
Keep the soil slightly more moist than usual for the first few weeks as the new plant establishes its roots. Patience is key here, as it can take a little time.
Common Problems & Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Yellow Leaves
This is usually a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture and your pot’s drainage. If the stems are also mushy, you may need to check for root rot.
Brown Leaf Edges or Tips
Low humidity is the most likely culprit. Increasing the moisture in the air around your plant will help prevent new leaves from developing brown edges. It can also be caused by using water with high mineral content—try using filtered or rainwater.
Leggy Growth & Small Leaves
This indicates the plant isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter location (but not into direct sun). Also, remember that providing a moss pole for support encourages bigger leaf growth.
Pests
Like many houseplants, it can occasionally attract pests like spider mites, mealybugs, or thrips. Keep an eye out, especially under the leaves.
- Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth to deter pests.
- If you see bugs, isolate the plant and treat it with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Fertilizing for Best Growth
During the spring and summer, feeding your plant will support its growth. Use a balanced, liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
Apply it about once a month when you water. There’s no need to fertilize in the fall and winter when the plant is not actively growing. Over-fertilizing can damage the roots, so less is more.
Repotting Your Philodendron
You won’t need to repot every year. This plant likes to be slightly root-bound. Generally, repotting every 2-3 years is sufficient, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes.
- Choose a new pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the old one.
- Gently remove the plant and loosen the root ball slightly.
- Place it in the new pot with fresh potting mix at the bottom and around the sides.
- Water it well and return it to its usual spot.
Repotting is best done in the spring, giving the plant a full season to recover and grow into its new space. Be gentle with the roots to avoid unnessecary stress.
FAQ Section
Is the Philodendron atabapoense toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.
How fast does the atabapoense philodendron grow?
With ideal care—good light, warmth, and humidity—it is a moderately fast grower during the spring and summer. You might see a new leaf every few weeks.
Why are the new leaves on my atabapoense small?
Small new leaves often point to insufficient light or a lack of support. Ensure it’s getting enough bright, indirect light and consider adding a moss pole for it to climb.
Can I grow Philodendron atabapoense outdoors?
Only in consistently warm, humid climates (USDA zones 10-11). It must be in a shaded spot, as direct sun will damage the leaves. For most people, it is strictly an indoor plant.
Should I mist the leaves?
Misting provides only a very temporary boost in humidity and can promote fungal leaf spots if water sits on the leaves too long. Using a humidifier or a pebble tray is a more effective and safer method for increasing humidity.
The philodendron atabapoense is a rewarding plant that offers a touch of the exotic to any plant collection. Its care is straightforward once you mimic its native tropical conditions. Pay attention to light, water carefully, and provide some humidity, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning, fast-growing specimen that’s sure to be a conversation piece for years to come. Remember, the most important tool you have is observation—your plant will show you what it needs.