How To Propagate Citronella Plants

If you want more of that wonderful mosquito-repelling scent in your garden, learning how to propagate citronella plants is the perfect skill. This simple step-by-step guide will show you exactly how to create new plants from your existing ones, saving you money and expanding your green space.

Citronella plants, often called the mosquito plant, are actually a type of scented geranium (Pelargonium citrosum). They’re prized for their fragrant leaves that release a citronella-like aroma when crushed. Propagating them is surprisingly straightforward, and you can choose between stem cuttings or division. With a few basic supplies and a little patience, you’ll have healthy new plants ready for pots or garden beds.

This main method we’ll focus on is propagation from stem cuttings. It’s the most reliable and popular way to multiply your citronella. You’ll be taking a piece of a healthy stem and encouraging it to grow its own roots. It’s a process that works well in both water and soil, giving you options based on what you prefer.

Before you start, make sure your parent plant is healthy. A stressed or diseased plant will not provide good cuttings. Water it well a day before you plan to take cuttings. This ensures the stems are full of moisture and ready for the next step.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Gathering your materials beforehand makes the whole process smoother. You likely have most of these items already in your gardening toolkit.

Sharp, clean pruning shears or a knife
Healthy, mature citronella plant
Small pots or containers (3-4 inches wide)
Well-draining potting mix (a mix for succulents or with added perlite is ideal)
Rooting hormone (powder or gel form, optional but recommended)
Clear plastic bags or plastic domes
Watering can with a narrow spout
Chopstick or pencil for making holes

Choosing and Taking the Perfect Cutting

The success of your propagation begins with selecting the right stem. Look for a stem that is sturdy and shows no signs of weakness or discoloration.

Avoid very young, soft green stems and very old, woody ones. The ideal cutting comes from semi-hardwood – it should be firm but still flexible. The stem should have at least three to four leaf nodes (those little bumps where leaves grow from) and be about 4 to 6 inches long.

Using your sterilized shears, make a clean, angled cut just below a leaf node. The angle increases the surface area for root growth. Immediately remove any leaves from the lower half of the cutting. If the remaining leaves are very large, you can trim them in half to reduce moisture loss.

Why Rooting Hormone Helps

While citronella can root without it, a rooting hormone significantly boosts your chances. It contains growth hormones that stimulate root development and often includes a fungicide to protect the tender cutting from rot.

To use it, simply moisten the bottom inch of your stem cutting, then dip it into the powder or gel. Tap off any excess before planting. It’s a simple step that can shave weeks off the rooting time and lead to a stronger root system.

Step-by-Step: Rooting in Soil

This is the most common method and often produces sturdier plants from the start.

Fill your small pots with damp potting mix. Pre-moisten the mix so it’s like a wrung-out sponge.
Use your chopstick to make a planting hole in the center of each pot, about 2 inches deep.
Insert the dipped end of your cutting into the hole. Gently firm the soil around it so it stands upright.
Water lightly to settle the soil, avoiding washing away the rooting hormone.
Create a mini-greenhouse by placing a clear plastic bag over the pot or using a plastic dome. This maintains high humidity, which is crucial.
Place the pots in a warm, bright location, but out of direct sunlight. A spot with bright, indirect light is perfect.

Step-by-Step: Rooting in Water

This method is fascinating because you can watch the roots grow. It’s simple, but the transition to soil later can be tricky for some plants.

Take your prepared cutting and place it in a clear glass or jar. Only the leafless part of the stem should be submerged.
Fill with room-temperature water. Rainwater or distilled water is best to avoid chemicals.
Place the jar in a spot with bright, indirect light. Change the water every 3-5 days to keep it fresh and oxygenated.
In 2-4 weeks, you should see white roots developing from the nodes. Wait until the roots are at least 1-2 inches long before potting.

When moving a water-rooted cutting to soil, be extra gentle. Keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) for the first two weeks to help the roots adapt from water to soil.

Caring for Your New Cuttings

Patience is key during the rooting phase, which typically takes 3 to 6 weeks. Your main jobs are to maintain humidity and check for growth.

Light: Bright, indirect light is essential. Direct sun will cook the cuttings inside their plastic tents.
Moisture: The soil should stay lightly moist. Let the top surface dry slightly before adding a little more water. Overwatering is the fastest way to cause rot.
Ventilation: Every few days, remove the plastic cover for an hour to allow fresh air to circulate and prevent mold.
Checking for Roots: After about 3 weeks, give the cutting a very gentle tug. If you feel resistance, roots have likely formed. You can also look for new leaf growth at the top, which is a sure sign of success.

Propagating by Division

If your citronella plant has grown into a large clump, division is a quick way to get big, instant plants. The best time to do this is in the spring or early fall.

Water the plant thoroughly a day before. Gently remove the entire plant from its pot or dig around the clump in the garden. Carefully tease the root ball apart into two or more sections, each with its own stems and healthy roots. You might need to use a clean, sharp knife to cut through tough roots.

Immediately replant each division into a new pot or garden spot with fresh soil. Water them well and provide some shade for a few days while they recover from the shock. They’ll establish themselfs quickly because they already have a full root system.

Potting Up and Aftercare

Once your cuttings have a good network of roots, they’re ready for their own pots. Choose a container that is only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the root ball. Citronella prefers to be slightly root-bound and a too-large pot holds excess moisture.

Use a quality, well-draining potting mix. Plant your new citronella at the same depth it was growing. Water it in and return it to its bright, indirect light spot for another week or two before gradually introducing it to more direct sunlight if desired.

Begin fertilizing about a month after potting, using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half strength. Pinch back the growing tips occasionally to encourage a bushy, full plant.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the best care, sometimes things don’t go as planned. Here’s how to fix common issues.

Yellowing or Dropping Leaves

This is often a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Check that your pot has drainage holes and that you’re not keeping the soil too wet. Let it dry out a bit more between waterings.

Cutting is Wilting or Rotting

Rot at the base of the stem means it’s too wet. Unfortunately, this cutting is probably lost. For future attempts, ensure your soil mix is grittier and you’re not over-watering. Make sure your cutting tool was clean to avoid introducing disease.

No Root Development

If weeks have passed with no roots, the cutting may have been taken from a non-viable stem or the environment might be too cold. Ensure temperatures are consistently above 65°F (18°C). Using a heating mat under the pots can sometimes help stimulate root growth.

FAQ: Your Citronella Propagation Questions Answered

What is the best time of year to propagate citronella?

Late spring through early summer is ideal. The warm temperatures and longer daylight hours encourage rapid root growth. You can propagate indoors successfully any time if you provide enough warmth and light.

Can I grow citronella from seeds?

While possible, it’s not the recommended method. Citronella plants grown from seed can be slow and may not have the same strong fragrance as plants propagated from cuttings, which are clones of the parent.

How long does it take for citronella cuttings to root?

In ideal conditions, you can see roots in as little as 2-3 weeks, especially in water. For soil rooting and for the plant to be established enough to pot on, plan for 4-6 weeks.

Why are my propagated citronella plants not as fragrant?

The fragrance is strongest when the plant receives plenty of sunlight. A plant grown in low light will have less potent oils. Also, the scent intensifies as the plant matures, so give your new plant some time.

How often should I water my new citronella plant?

Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Citronella is somewhat drought-tolerant but prefers consistent moisture. Avoid letting it sit in soggy soil, as this is a common cause of root rot.

Can I plant my propagated citronella outside?

Yes, but only after all danger of frost has passed and you’ve hardened it off. Citronella is perennial in warm climates (zones 9-11) but is often grown as an annual in cooler regions or brought indoors for winter.

Winter Care for Your Plants

If you live in a area with frost, you’ll need to protect your citronella. You can bring potted plants indoors to a sunny window before the first frost. Reduce watering over the winter as growth slows. Alternatively, you can take fresh cuttings in late summer to create small, manageable new plants to overwinter indoors, ensuring you have a supply for next spring.

Propagating citronella plants is a rewarding and economical way to grow your garden. By following these clear steps for stem cuttings or division, you can enjoy more of these useful, fragrant plants around your patio, garden, or home. With each successful new plant, you’ll gain confidence and maybe even have extras to share with fellow gardeners.