If you’re a gardener in North Carolina, knowing when to plant strawberries is the first step to a succesful harvest. The optimal planting season guide depends heavily on your specific region within the state, as our climate varies from the mountains to the coast.
Getting the timing right is crucial. Plant too early, and a late frost can damage your young plants. Plant too late, and they won’t have time to establish strong roots before the heat of summer or the chill of winter. This guide will walk you through the best dates, varieties, and methods for North Carolina.
When To Plant Strawberries In NC
For most of North Carolina, the prime strawberry planting season is in the fall. This might seem counterintuitive, but it gives the plants a critical head start. Fall planting allows strawberry plants to develop a robust root system and crown before winter dormancy. When spring arrives, they’re ready to burst into growth and produce a much better yield.
Understanding NC’s Climate Zones
North Carolina has three main climate regions, and each effects planting time.
- Coastal Plain (Eastern NC): This region has milder winters and earlier springs. The optimal fall planting window here is from early October to mid-November. You can also do very early spring planting in late February, but fall is generally preferred.
- Piedmont (Central NC): This is the central part of the state, including cities like Raleigh and Charlotte. The best time to plant is from mid-October to late November. The soil is still warm enough for root growth but the air is cooling down.
- Mountains (Western NC): Winters are colder and springs arrive later. Aim to plant strawberries here in early to mid-October. This ensures plants are settled in before the ground freezes. Spring planting is riskier due to a shorter growing season.
Choosing the Right Strawberry Type
Selecting a variety adapted to North Carolina is just as important as timing. There are two main types, and they fruit at different times.
- June-Bearing Strawberries: These produce a single, large crop over about 3 weeks in spring. They are the most common type for home gardens because the berries are often larger and the yield is concentrated. Popular NC varieties include ‘Chandler’, ‘Camarosa’, and ‘Sweet Charlie’. They are typically planted in matted rows.
- Day-Neutral Strawberries: These varieties produce fruit throughout the growing season, from spring until fall frost. They are excellent for continuous harvest but often have smaller berries. They do best in the cooler parts of the Piedmont and Mountains. Good choices are ‘Albion’, ‘San Andreas’, and ‘Tristar’. They are usualy grown in hills or containers.
Everbearing strawberries, an older category, are less commonly recommended now in favor of the more reliable day-neutrals.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Once you have your plants and your date, follow these steps for success.
1. Site Selection and Soil Prep
Strawberries need full sun—at least 8 hours a day. Choose a spot with well-draining soil; raised beds are a fantastic option in NC where heavy clay is common. Avoid areas where tomatoes, peppers, or potatoes have recently grown, as they can share soil-borne diseases.
Prepare the soil a few weeks before planting. Work in 2-3 inches of compost or well-rotted manure to a depth of about 12 inches. The goal is a loose, fertile bed. A soil test from NC State Extension is always a good idea to determine if you need to adjust pH (aim for 6.0 to 6.5) or add specific nutrients.
2. How to Plant Correctly
Proper planting depth is non-negotiable for strawberries. If planted too deep, the crown rots. If planted too shallow, the roots dry out.
- Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread the roots out without bending them.
- Place the plant so the crown is exactly at soil level. The crown is the short, thick stem between the roots and the leaves.
- Backfill the hole and firm the soil gently around the roots.
- Water thoroughly immediately after planting to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
3. Spacing and Bed Systems
How you space your plants depends on the type you chose.
- For June-Bearers (Matted Row): Space plants 18-24 inches apart in rows that are 3-4 feet apart. The runners they send out will fill in the space, creating a “matted” row.
- For Day-Neutrals (Hill System): Space plants 12 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart. Remove all runners as they appear. This forces the plant’s energy into the main crown and fruit production.
Essential Care After Planting
Your work isn’t done once the plants are in the ground. Consistent care through the first year sets the stage.
Watering and Mulching
Water new plants regularly, providing 1-1.5 inches per week if rain is lacking. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep leaves dry and prevent disease.
Apply mulch after planting. In fall, use 2-3 inches of pine straw or shredded leaves to insulate the plants through winter. In early spring, refresh with clean straw to suppress weeds, keep fruit clean, and conserve moisture.
Fertilizing for Success
Do not fertilize at planting time in the fall. Wait until new growth begins in spring. Apply a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) according to label rates, keeping it off the leaves. For day-neutrals, you’ll need to fertilize lightly every few weeks through the season because they’re constantly producing.
Managing Blooms and Runners
This is a critical step for long-term health. For fall-planted strawberries, remove all blossoms in the first spring. This directs the plant’s energy to developing strong roots and leaves instead of fruit, leading to a much heavier crop the following year.
For June-bearing plants, you can allow runners to root to fill your row, but thin them to prevent overcrowding. For day-neutrals, remove runners completely as mentioned.
Common Problems and Solutions in NC
Our humid climate can create some challenges. Being proactive is key.
- Gray Mold (Botrytis): This fungal disease thrives in cool, wet weather. Prevent it by using mulch, providing good air circulation, and harvesting ripe fruit promptly. Remove any diseased berries immediately.
- Slugs and Snails: They love strawberries. Mulch with straw (not leaves) and use organic slug baits if needed. Beer traps can also be effective.
- Bird Netting: Birds will find your berries as they ripen. Cover your patch with bird netting once the fruit starts to color, securing it tightly at the edges.
- Weeds: They compete fiercely for water and nutrients. Mulch heavily and hand-pull weeds carefully to avoid disturbing the strawberry’s shallow roots.
Harvesting Your Bounty
For June-bearing plants you nurtured since fall, your first real harvest will come the spring after planting. Harvest when berries are fully red, preferably in the cool of the morning. Pinch or clip the stem; don’t pull the berry. They don’t ripen further after picking, so wait for full color.
Enjoy them fresh, or consider freezing, making jam, or sharing with neighbors. After harvest, renovate June-bearing beds by mowing leaves, thinning plants, and fertilizing to prepare them for next year.
FAQ: Planting Strawberries in North Carolina
Can I plant strawberries in the spring in NC?
Yes, but it’s less ideal. Spring-planted strawberries (especially June-bearers) should have their blossoms removed all season to strengthen the plant for next year. Fall planting gives better results.
What is the best strawberry variety for NC?
For June-bearing, ‘Chandler’ is widely adapted and productive. For day-neutral, ‘Albion’ shows good disease resistance. Always check with your local county extension for top performers in your exact area.
How long do strawberry plants last?
A well-maintained June-bearing bed can be productive for 3-4 years before it needs replacing. Day-neutral plants are often treated as annuals or replaced every 2 years as their production declines.
Can I grow strawberries in pots in North Carolina?
Absolutely. Use day-neutral varieties and a large container with excellent drainage. Pots can be moved to avoid extreme weather and make protecting from pests easier.
Do I need to cover my strawberries in winter?
In most of NC, the mulch you applied after planting is sufficient. In the colder mountain regions, ensure you have a good 3-4 inch layer of pine straw or straw for insulation against freeze-thaw cycles which can heave plants out of the ground.
By following this regional guide and paying attention to timing, you’ll give your strawberry plants the strongest possible start. With proper care, you’ll be rewarded with sweet, homegrown berries that are worth the wait. Remember, the effort you put in during the planting season lays the foundation for everything that follows.