If you’re finding holes, spots, or missing chunks on your precious plants, you’re probably wondering what’s eating my tomatoes. This is a common and frustrating problem for gardeners, but you can fix it. The first step is to correctly identify the culprit. Many pests leave telltale signs, and once you know what you’re dealing with, you can choose the right solution.
This guide will walk you through the most common tomato pests. We’ll cover how to spot them, the damage they cause, and the best ways to manage them organically and effectively.
What’s Eating My Tomatoes
Let’s look at the insects and animals most likely to be feasting on your crop. Check your plants carefully, looking under leaves and along stems.
Common Insect Pests
These small bugs are often the main problem. They can cause suprising amounts of damage very quickly.
Tomato Hornworms
These are the big, green caterpillars that can strip a plant overnight. They are camoflouged well, looking just like a tomato stem.
- Signs: Missing leaves, chewed stems, and dark green droppings on leaves below. You might see the large caterpillar itself.
- Solution: Hand-pick them off and drop them in soapy water. Encourage natural predators like braconid wasps, which lay eggs on the hornworms.
Aphids
Tiny, soft-bodied insects that cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves. They suck plant sap.
- Signs: Curled or yellowing leaves, sticky “honeydew” residue on leaves, which can lead to sooty mold.
- Solution: A strong blast of water from the hose knocks them off. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Ladybugs are a great natural predator.
Whiteflies
These tiny, white, moth-like flies swarm when the plant is disturbed. They also suck sap and secrete honeydew.
- Signs: Yellowing, stunted leaves, a sticky film on leaves, and clouds of tiny white insects when you touch the plant.
- Solution: Yellow sticky traps catch adults. Insecticidal soap or horticultural oil applied to the leaf undersides works for nymphs and adults.
Flea Beetles
Minute, dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed. They chew dozens of tiny, shotgun-like holes in leaves.
- Signs: Leaves appear riddled with small, round holes. Damage is worst on young seedlings.
- Solution: Use floating row covers to protect young plants. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled around plants can deter them. Sticky traps are also helpful.
Tomato Fruitworms (Corn Earworms)
These caterpillars burrow into the tomato fruit itself, often entering near the stem.
- Signs: A small, neat hole in the tomato, with messy, wet frass (droppings) inside and around the entry point.
- Solution: Check plants regularly and remove any affected fruit. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural soil bacteria, to target caterpillars.
Larger Animal Pests
Sometimes the problem isn’t an insect. Larger animals can ruin a harvest in one visit.
Slugs and Snails
These mollusks feed at night and on cloudy days, leaving irregular holes and silvery slime trails.
- Signs: Large, ragged holes in fruit and leaves, especially near the ground. Look for shiny slime trails.
- Solution: Set out saucers of beer sunk into the soil to attract and drown them. Hand-pick at night with a flashlight. Copper tape around pots or beds can deter them.
Birds
Birds, especially sparrows, often peck at ripe red tomatoes, sometimes just for the water inside.
- Signs: Sharp, peck-shaped holes in ripe fruit. Damage is usually isolated to a few fruits.
- Solution: Use bird netting over your plants. Hang reflective tape or old CDs to scare them away. Provide a separate water source for birds in the garden.
Squirrels and Chipmunks
These rodents often take one bite out of a tomato and then leave it. They can be very persistent.
- Signs: Partially eaten tomatoes, often with bites taken out and then abandoned on the vine or ground.
- Solution: Bird netting can also deter squirrels. Some gardeners find success with motion-activated sprinklers.
How to Diagnose the Problem
Follow these steps to figure out who the guilty party is.
- Inspect the Damage: Look closely at the leaves, stems, and fruit. Are holes big or small? Is the fruit eaten or just pecked?
- Check the Time: Some pests, like slugs, feed at night. If damage appears overnight, think nocturnal creatures.
- Look for the Pest: Check under leaves, along stems, and at the base of the plant. Bring a flashlight for night inspection.
- Look for Clues: Slime trails, droppings, eggs, or shed skins are all clear indicators.
Prevention is the Best Medicine
A healthy garden is your first line of defense. Here’s how to prevent pests from becoming a big problem.
- Rotate Crops: Don’t plant tomatoes in the same spot year after year. This disrupts pest life cycles in the soil.
- Encourage Beneficial Insects: Plant flowers like marigolds, calendula, and alyssum to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that eat pests.
- Keep it Clean: Remove diseased leaves and fallen fruit promptly. Clear garden debris in the fall to eliminate overwintering spots.
- Use Physical Barriers: Floating row covers over young plants keeps many insects off. Install cages or stakes to keep fruit off the ground.
- Water Properly: Water at the soil level, not overhead, to keep leaves dry and prevent disease that can weaken plants.
Safe and Effective Control Methods
When pests appear, start with the least toxic option and escalate only if needed.
Manual Removal
For large pests like hornworms or slugs, picking them off by hand is immediatly effective. Do this in the early morning or evening.
Organic Sprays and Treatments
- Insecticidal Soap: Great for soft-bodied insects like aphids and whiteflies. It must contact the pest directly.
- Neem Oil: A natural oil that disrupts insect feeding and acts as a repellent. Effective against a wide range of pests.
- Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that specifically targets caterpillars like hornworms and fruitworms. Harmless to other insects.
- Diatomaceous Earth (DE): A fine powder made from fossilized algae. It scratches the waxy coating of insects, causing them to dehydrate. Reapply after rain.
Traps and Lures
Yellow sticky traps catch flying insects like whiteflies and aphids. Beer traps work for slugs and snails. Pheromone traps can confuse some moths and prevent them from laying eggs.
When to Take More Serious Action
If an infestation is severe and threatening your entire crop, you might consider stronger organic pesticides like spinosad or pyrethrin. Always read the label carefully and apply in the evening to avoid harming bees. Remember, the goal is management, not total eradication—a few pests are okay and feed the beneficial insects.
FAQ: Common Tomato Pest Questions
What is making tiny holes in my tomato leaves?
This is almost certainly flea beetles. They create many small, round holes that make leaves look like they’ve been hit with fine buckshot.
What chews big holes in tomato leaves?
Large, irregular holes are often from tomato hornworms or, if near the ground, slugs and snails. Look for other clues like droppings or slime trails.
What bores into my tomatoes?
If there’s a neat hole into the fruit with messy insides, it’s likely the tomato fruitworm (corn earworm). A larger, ragged hole might be from a bird or squirrel.
How do I keep bugs off my tomato plants naturally?
Focus on prevention: encourage beneficial insects, use row covers, keep plants healthy, and try companion planting with strong-scented herbs like basil.
Are store-bought pesticides safe for my vegetable garden?
Always choose products labeled for use on edible vegetables. Even organic options should be used as a last resort and applied according to the instructions, especially the pre-harvest interval (PHI).
Figuring out what’s eating your tomatoes takes a little detective work, but it’s worth the effort. By identifying the pest and using targeted, gentle methods first, you can protect your harvest and enjoy healthy, homegrown tomatoes all season long. Regular monitoring is the key—just a few minutes in the garden each day can catch a problem before it gets out of hand.