When To Plant Trees In Missouri

If you’re wondering when to plant trees in Missouri, timing is your most important decision. Getting it right gives your tree a strong, healthy start and helps it thrive for decades. This guide will walk you through the optimal seasons and techniques for success.

Missouri’s climate presents unique challenges and opportunities. Our hot summers and cold winters mean planting at the right time is critical. Let’s look at the best windows for getting your new tree in the ground.

The absolute best times to plant trees in Missouri are during the dormant seasons: fall and early spring. These periods allow the tree to focus its energy on root establishment before the stresses of summer heat or winter cold arrive.

Why Fall Planting is Often the Best Choice

For many tree species, autumn is the ideal season. The air is cool but the soil is still warm from the summer sun. This combination encourages robust root growth.

Here are the key benefits of fall planting:

Warm soil promotes rapid root development.
Cooler air reduces water loss from leaves (transpiration).
Autumn rains often provide natural irrigation.
The tree can establish roots all winter and be ready for a spring growth spurt.

Aim to plant at least six weeks before the first hard, ground-freezing frost. For most of Missouri, this means planting from late September through mid-November. In southern parts of the state, you can sometimes plant into early December.

The Advantages of Early Spring Planting

Spring is the second-best option, especially if you miss the fall window. The key is to plant as soon as the ground is workable.

You want to get the tree in the ground before bud break. This allows it to use the full growing season to settle in.

Target late March through April for most of Missouri.
Avoid planting too late in spring, as the young tree will immediately face summer heat.
Spring planting requires very attentive watering as summer approaches.

Seasons to Avoid for Tree Planting

Some times of year are much harder on new trees. It’s best to avoid these periods if you can.

Mid-Summer (June – August)

The intense heat and potential drought of a Missouri summer put immense stress on a new tree. Its underdeveloped root system struggles to uptake enough water, leading to transplant shock or death.

Late Winter (Before Thaw)

Planting into frozen or waterlogged soil is difficult and can damage the tree’s roots. It also compacts the soil, creating poor conditions for growth. Wait until the soil dries and warms a bit.

Choosing the Right Tree for Missouri’s Regions

Missouri has three broad climate zones, and your local conditions matter. Always select native or well-adapted species for the best results.

Northern Missouri (Colder Zone 5): Favor hardy species like Bur Oak, Redbud, or Serviceberry. Fall planting is crucial here to ensure root establishment before a longer winter.
Central Missouri (Zone 6): A wide variety thrive here, including Dogwood, Black Gum, and various maples. Both fall and spring planting work well.
Southern Missouri (Warmer Zone 7): You can consider Southern Magnolia, Sweetgum, or Loblolly Pine. The longer fall season is a major advantage for planting.

Always check with your local nursery or extension office for the best varieties in your specific county. They’ll know about local soil and pest issues too.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Your Tree

Proper planting technique is just as important as timing. Follow these steps to give your tree the best foundation.

Call Before You Dig: Always dial 811 a few days before planting to have utility lines marked. It’s free and prevents dangerous accidents.
Dig a Wide, Shallow Hole: The hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball but only as deep as the root ball is tall. Do not dig deeper, as settling can cause the tree to sink.
Inspect and Loosen Roots: For container-grown trees, gently loosen circling roots. For balled-and-burlapped trees, remove any wire basket and synthetic burlap after placing in the hole.
Position the Tree Correctly: The root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) must be visible and slightly above the final soil grade. Never bury the trunk.
Backfill with Native Soil: Use the soil you dug out to backfill. Avoid amending it with compost unless your soil is extremely poor; you want roots to adapt to native conditions.
Water Deeply: After backfilling halfway, water to settle the soil and remove air pockets. Then finish backfilling and water again thoroughly.
Mulch Properly: Apply 2-4 inches of mulch (like shredded wood) in a wide, donut-shaped ring around the tree. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk itself to prevent rot.
Stake Only if Necessary: Most young trees do not need staking. Only stake if the site is very windy, and remove stakes after one year.

Critical Aftercare for Your Newly Planted Tree

The first two to three years are the establishment period. Your care during this time determines the tree’s long-term health.

Watering Schedule is Non-Negotiable

Consistent, deep watering is the single most important task. A slow trickle from a hose for 20-30 minutes is better than a quick sprinkle.

Weeks 1-4: Water every 2-3 days unless it rains significantly.
Months 2-3: Water deeply once a week.
Until Established: Continue to water during dry periods for the first 2-3 years, especially in summer and fall.

Pruning and Fertilizing

Resist the urge to fertilize at planting time. It can burn new roots. Wait until the second year to apply a slow-release fertilizer if a soil test indicates a need.

Limit pruning at planting to removing only broken, dead, or rubbing branches. Major shaping should wait until after the tree has settled in for a full season.

Watch for signs of stress like wilting, scorched leaves, or early fall color. These often indicate under-watering or, less commonly, over-watering. Check soil moisture a few inches down to be sure.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make these errors. Being aware of them will increase your success rate.

Planting Too Deep: This is the #1 cause of tree failure. Always find the root flare.
The “Volcano” Mulch: Piling mulch against the trunk invites disease, insects, and girdling roots.
Overwatering: Soggy soil suffocates roots. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings.
Choosing the Wrong Location: Consider the tree’s mature size. Don’t plant a large oak under power lines or to close to your house’s foundation.
Ignoring the Weather Forecast: Try to plant before a period of mild, rainy weather, not before a heatwave or deep freeze.

FAQ: Your Missouri Tree Planting Questions Answered

Can I plant trees in Missouri in the summer?
It’s not recommended. The heat stress is significant. If you must, choose a small containerized tree, plant on a cloudy day, and be prepared to water almost daily.

What is the best month to plant trees in Missouri?
For fall planting, October is often perfect. For spring planting, aim for April. These months typically offer the ideal soil and air temperature balance.

How late can you plant trees in the fall in Missouri?
You can plant until the ground freezes, but earlier is better. Try to finish by mid-November to ensure those crucial weeks of root growth beforehand.

What are the easiest trees to grow in Missouri for beginners?
Consider native species like Eastern Redbud, River Birch, or Bald Cypress (for wet areas). They are adapted to our climate and generally more pest-resistant.

Should I amend the soil when planting a tree?
Generally, no. Backfill with the native soil you removed. This encourages roots to spread into the surrounding ground rather than staying confined in a rich, amended hole.

By following this guidance on optimal timing and technique, you can confidently add new trees to your Missouri landscape. The effort you put in at the start will be rewarded with a healthy, beautiful tree that provides shade, beauty, and value for generations to come. Remember, the best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago, but the second best time is during this coming fall or spring season.