Anthurium Pendulifolium

If you’re looking for a truly special hanging plant, the anthurium pendulifolium is a rare hanging leaf beauty that deserves your attention. This stunning epiphyte, often called the hanging anthurium, brings a dramatic cascade of long, narrow foliage to any space. It’s not your typical flowering anthurium, but its elegant leaves are the main attraction.

Finding one can be a challenge, and caring for it requires a specific approach. But the effort is well worth it. This guide gives you all the practical tips you need to find, grow, and maintain this spectacular plant successfully.

Native to the rainforests of Ecuador and Colombia, Anthurium pendulifolium lives high in the canopy. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on other plants (like tree branches) without taking nutrients from them. This origin story is key to understanding its care needs.

The plant’s most striking feature is its foliage. Mature leaves can grow several feet long, hanging down in a graceful curtain. They are a deep, lush green with a slightly leathery texture. The leaf stems, or petioles, are surprisingly short, making the long leaves seem to emerge directly from the mounting board or pot.

Why It’s Considered Rare

Several factors contribute to this plant’s rarity in cultivation:

Slow Growth: It takes many years to reach its impressive, cascading size.
Specific Habitat Needs: Replicating its high-humidity, airy canopy home can be difficult.
Limited Propagation: It’s primarily grown from seed, which is scarce and slow to germinate.
High Demand: Its unique look has made it highly sought after by collectors, driving up price and scarcity.

Ideal Growing Conditions

To keep your anthurium pendulifolium healthy, you must mimic its natural habitat as closely as possible. Getting these core elements right is the biggest step toward success.

Light Requirements

This plant thrives in bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight under a forest canopy.

Avoid direct sun, which will quickly scorch the leaves.
An east-facing window is often perfect. A south or west window needs a sheer curtain for protection.
If light is too low, growth will become extremely slow and leggy.

Temperature & Humidity

This is the most critical part of care. As a tropical native, it needs consistent warmth and moisture in the air.

Temperature: Keep it between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid drafts and sudden temperature drops below 60°F (15°C).
Humidity: Aim for 70% or higher. This is non-negotiable for long-term health. Low humidity leads to crispy, brown leaf tips and edges.

To increase humidity, use a humidifier right beside the plant. Pebble trays or grouping plants together can help a little, but often aren’t enough on their own for this species. A well-lit bathroom can be a great spot if it has enough light.

Air Circulation

Good air flow is essential to prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, especially in high humidity. A gentle fan moving air in the room (not pointed directly at the plant) makes a big difference. Stagnant, wet air is a recipe for problems.

Planting and Potting Mix

You have two excellent options for potting this anthurium: mounted or in a pot. The right substrate is crucial because its roots need air and drainage.

Option 1: Mounting on a Board or Plaque

This is the most natural and visually stunning method. It allows the leaves to hang freely as they would in nature.

Soak a pad of long-fiber sphagnum moss until it’s fully hydrated.
Gently wrap the moss around the plant’s roots.
Secure the moss ball to a wooden mount (like cedar or tree fern) using fishing line or plastic-coated wire.
Mist the roots and moss daily, or soak the entire mount in water for 10 minutes once or twice a week.

Option 2: Potting in a Container

If you choose a pot, select a very chunky, airy mix. A typical houseplant soil will suffocate the roots.

Perfect Mix Recipe: Combine equal parts orchid bark (medium grade), perlite or pumice, and horticultural charcoal. Add a small handful of chopped sphagnum moss.
Use a pot with excellent drainage holes. Terracotta is good for breathability.
The pot should be relatively small—these plants prefer to be slightly root-bound.

Watering and Feeding Routine

Your watering schedule depends entirely on your potting method. Overwatering is a common killer, so always err on the side of dryness.

For Mounted Plants:

Check the moss pad daily. It should stay moist but not sopping wet. Lightly mist the roots every day in warm weather. In drier or cooler periods, a thorough soaking of the mount 1-2 times a week is better.

For Potted Plants:

Water only when the top layer of the chunky mix feels dry. Stick your finger into the mix an inch or two. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, then let it drain completely. Never let the pot sit in a saucer of water.

Fertilizing

Feed sparingly during the active growing season (spring and summer).

Use a balanced, water-soluble orchid or foliage fertilizer.
Dilute it to 1/4 or 1/2 the recommended strength.
Apply once a month. There’s no need to fertilize in fall and winter when growth slows.

Over-fertilizing will damage the sensitive roots, so when in doubt, skip the feed.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Brown, Crispy Leaf Tips: This is almost always due to low humidity. Increase moisture in the air with a humidifier.
Yellowing Leaves: Can be a sign of overwatering. Check your potting mix and ensure it’s draining properly. Older leaves yellowing and dying off is normal occasionally.
Soft, Mushy Stems or Black Spots on Leaves: This indicates root rot from overwatering or a mix that stays too wet. You may need to repot into fresh, dry mix and cut away any rotten roots.
Pests: Watch for mealybugs, scale, and spider mites, especially in dry conditions. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth regularly. For infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Leaves Not Growing Long: Usually caused by insufficient light. Move the plant to a brighter location (without direct sun).

Propagation Tips

Propagating anthurium pendulifolium is difficult and requires patience. The primary method is by seed, which is complex for home growers. Sometimes, a mature plant will produce offsets or “pups” at its base.

If you’re lucky enough to get a pup:

Wait until it has developed several of its own roots.
Carefully separate it from the mother plant using a sterile knife.
Pot it up in its own small container with the recommended chunky mix.
Place it in a very humid environment (like a propagation box or clear bag) until it establishes.

FAQ

Does the Anthurium pendulifolium flower?
Yes, but its flowers (inflorescences) are modest compared to its leaves. They are typical anthurium spathe and spadix structures, often greenish, and not the main reason for growing this plant.

How fast does the hanging anthurium grow?
It is a slow-grower. You might only see one or two new leaves per growing season, especially when the plant is young. Patience is essential.

Is Anthurium pendulifolium toxic?
Like all anthuriums, it contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic if ingested. Keep it out of reach of pets and children who might chew on the leaves.

Where can I buy one of these rare plants?
Check specialized online nurseries, rare plant auctions, or local plant society sales. Be prepared for a higher price tag and always buy from a reputable source to ensure you get a healthy, correctly identified plant.

Can I grow it in a hanging basket?
Yes, a hanging basket lined with moss and filled with a chunky mix can work very well. Just ensure it’s in a spot with high enough humidity, as baskets dry out faster.

Caring for an anthurium pendulifolium is a rewarding commitment for any serious plant enthusiast. By providing the right balance of humidity, light, and airy substrate, you can enjoy the unique beauty of its cascading foliage for many years. Remember, the key is to think like a rainforest canopy—keep it warm, moist, and breezy, and your rare hanging leaf beauty will thrive.