Pothos Vs Philodendron

Choosing the right easy-to-grow houseplant can be tricky when favorites look so similar. Let’s clear up the confusion with a direct comparison of pothos vs philodendron. Both are fantastic for beginners, but knowing their differences helps you pick the perfect one for your home and care style.

At first glance, Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) and Philodendron (often Heartleaf Philodendron, or Philodendron hederaceum) look like twins. They both have beautiful heart-shaped leaves and a vining habit. This similarity leads to them being mislabeled all the time in garden centers. But they are distinct plants from different genera. Once you know what to look for, telling them apart becomes simple.

Key Differences in a Glance

Before we get into the details, here’s a quick cheat sheet:

Leaf Texture: Pothos leaves are thicker and waxy. Philodendron leaves are softer and thinner.
Leaf Shape: Pothos leaves have a more pronounced, asymmetric “fold” along the midrib. Philodendron leaves are uniformly heart-shaped.
Aerial Roots: Pothos develops one thick aerial root per node. Philodendrons often have several smaller, hair-like roots.
New Growth: New philodendron leaves grow protected inside a cataphyll (a thin sheath). Pothos leaves unfurl directly from the previous leaf.
Variety Colors: Pothos often shows more dramatic, variegated colors like stark white or yellow. Philodendron variegation tends to be more subtle.

Detailed Leaf Comparison

The leaves are the easiest way to tell these two plants apart once you know the signs.

Pothos Leaves

Pothos leaves feel like stiff paper or plastic. They have a raised, bumpy texture across the surface. The most telling feature is the leaf’s curve along the central vein; it often looks like one side is slightly raised, giving it a less symmetrical appearance. The color variegation in varieties like ‘Marble Queen’ or ‘Golden Pothos’ is often bold and painterly.

Philodendron Leaves

Philodendron leaves are noticeably softer and smoother to the touch, almost like thin suede. They form a near-perfect, symmetrical heart shape. New leaves emerge from a thin, papery sheath that dries and falls off. Their colors, even in variegated types like ‘Brasil,’ are typically more blended and less stark than pothos.

Growth Habits and Structure

Their growth patterns offer more clues for identification.

Vining: Both are vigorous climbers or trailers. However, philodendron stems are typically more slender and flexible. Pothos stems are thicker and more robust as they mature.
Nodes and Roots: Look at the joints (nodes) on the vine. A pothos node will usualy have a single, nub-like brown aerial root emerging. A philodendron node will feature multiple smaller, finer aerial roots that can look like tiny brown hairs.
New Growth: Watch for new leaves. On a philodendron, you’ll see a pointed sheath (cataphyll) appear, which turns brown and papery as the leaf unfurls. Pothos new growth simply emerges as a pointed tip from the end of the existing stem.

Care Requirements: Side-by-Side

Luckily, both plants are famously low-maintenance. Their care is very similar, but with a few slight nuances.

Light Needs

Both adapt to low light, but thrive in bright, indirect light.

Pothos: Can tolerate slightly lower light than philodendron. Its variegation fades in very low light. Direct sun will scorch its leaves.
Philodendron: Prefers consistent medium to bright indirect light. It may become leggy and produce smaller leaves in low light more quickly than pothos.

Watering Schedule

Overwatering is the main enemy for both.

Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger an inch into the pot.
Water your pothos only when the soil is almost completely dry. Its thick leaves store more water.
Water your philodendron when the top 50-75% of the soil is dry. Its thinner leaves mean it’s slightly less drought-tolerant than pothos, but it still hates soggy feet.

Soil and Fertilizing

A well-draining potting mix is non-negotiable. A standard houseplant mix with some perlite for aeration works perfectly. Feed both plants with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength once a month during the spring and summer. You can skip feeding in the fall and winter when growth slows.

Humidity and Temperature

Both enjoy average household humidity but appreciate a boost. Philodendrons might show slightly more appreciation for higher humidity with larger leaves, but pothos is no diva either. Keep them away from cold drafts and heating vents. They prefer temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C).

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

One of the joys of these plants is how easy they are to propagate. The method is identical for both.

Cut a 4-6 inch stem tip, ensuring it has at least 3-4 nodes (those little bumps on the stem).
Remove the leaves from the bottom one or two nodes.
Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the bare nodes are submerged.
Put it in a spot with bright, indirect light and change the water weekly.
In 2-6 weeks, you should see roots sprouting. Wait until they are a few inches long before potting in soil.

You can also propagate directly in moist soil, but water propagation lets you see the progress, which is fun for beginners.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even easy plants have occasional issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellow Leaves

This is most often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and adjust your schedule. For pothos, yellow leaves can also mean it’s getting to much direct sun. Older leaves naturally yellow and die off occasionally; just pluck them.

Brown Leaf Tips or Edges

Usually caused by low humidity or a buildup of salts and minerals from tap water. Try using distilled or filtered water, and consider occasional misting or a humidifier. Underwatering can also cause crispy edges.

Leggy Growth with Small Leaves

This means your plant wants more light. Move it to a brighter location (but not direct sun). You can also prune back the long vines to encourage fuller growth from the base.

Pests

Both can attract mealybugs, spider mites, or scale. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth to prevent this. If you see pests, isolate the plant and treat it with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Which One Should You Choose?

So, in the match of pothos vs philodendron, who wins? It depends on your preferences.

Choose Pothos if: You want the ultimate tough plant, you forget to water sometimes, you have lower light, or you love bold, high-contrast variegation.
Choose Philodendron if: You prefer a softer, more classic heart-leaf look, you can provide slightly more consistent moisture and light, and you enjoy watching new leaves emerge from their sheaths.

Honestly, you can’t go wrong. Many plant lovers end up with both because they’re equally rewarding and forgiving. They are both champions of easy-to-grow houseplant collections.

FAQ: Pothos and Philodendron Questions

Are pothos and philodendron the same?

No, they are different types of plants. They belong to seperate genera (Epipremnum and Philodendron) but are in the same larger plant family (Araceae). This makes them distant cousins, not twins.

Which is easier to care for, pothos or philodendron?

Both are extremely easy. Pothos is often cited as slightly more forgiving of neglect, especially with irregular watering and lower light. But philodendron is still a top-tier beginner plant.

Can I grow pothos and philodendron together in the same pot?

Yes, you can! Their care needs are so similar that they make excellent pot-mates. This can create a beautiful mix of textures and leaf shapes in one container.

Are these plants pet-friendly?

No. Both pothos and philodendron are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. They contain calcium oxalate crystals which can cause oral irritation and stomach upset. It’s best to keep them out of reach of curious pets.

Why is my pothos not vining?

Insufficient light is the most common cause. Move it to a brighter spot. Also, a little fertilizer during the growing season can encourage new growth. Pruning the tips can also stimulate bushier growth and new vines from the base.

How often should I repot my philodendron?

Repot every 1-2 years in spring, moving to a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter. They like to be slightly root-bound. If you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, it’s definitely time.