If you’re a gardener in South Florida, figuring out when to plant tomatoes can be the difference between a bumper crop and disappointment. Knowing the optimal planting season guide for our unique climate is your first step to success.
Our warm weather is a double-edged sword for tomatoes. While they love heat, our intense summer heat and humidity, along with specific pest pressures, dictate a very specific schedule. Let’s break down the best times to get your plants in the ground.
When To Plant Tomatoes In South Florida – Optimal Planting Season Guide
The golden rule for South Florida tomato planting is to work around the summer. Your main planting windows are in the fall and late winter.
The absolute best time to start is in late August through September. This allows plants to mature and produce fruit during the drier, cooler months of fall and early winter. Your second chance is a late winter planting in January or early February for a spring harvest before the summer heat returns.
Why Timing is Everything in the Subtropics
Tomatoes are technically perennials, but we often grow them as annuals. In South Florida, our seasons are flipped compared to most of the country.
- Heat & Humidity: Prolonged temperatures above 90°F can cause blossom drop, where flowers fail to set fruit. High humidity fosters fungal diseases.
- Pest Pressure: Summer is peak season for pests like whiteflies, which spread devastating viruses like Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl.
- Rainy Season: Our summer rains (June-October) can waterlog roots and spread fungal spores, leading to root rot and blight.
The Two Ideal Planting Windows
1. The Fall Planting (Primary Season)
This is your most reliable and productive season. Aim to get transplants in the ground from late August to early October.
- Target Harvest: October through December/January.
- Advantages: Plants establish as rains taper off. They fruit during the drier, sunnier, and milder fall weather. Pest pressure begins to decline.
- Tip: If planting in late August, provide some afternoon shade for young transplants to protect them from the last intense heat.
2. The Late Winter Planting (Secondary Season)
If you miss the fall window, you can plant again in January or very early February.
- Target Harvest: March through May or early June.
- Advantages: Cooler, drier start helps establishment. You’ll get a nice spring harvest.
- Watch Out: Plants will hit their peak production just as heat and humidity begin to rise in late spring. Be prepared for pest management.
What Happens if You Plant at the Wrong Time?
Planting in spring (April-May) or summer usually leads to frustration. Plants struggle with stress, produce few fruits, and often succumb to disease by mid-summer. It’s a lot of work for little reward, so sticking to the schedule is key.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide for South Florida
1. Choosing the Right Varieties
Select varieties bred for heat and disease resistance. Look for codes like VFNHT on the tag, which indicate resistance to various wilts, nematodes, and heat tolerance.
- Cherry/Grape Tomatoes: ‘Sweet 100’, ‘Sun Gold’, ‘Juliet’ – often more heat-tolerant and prolific.
- Slicing Tomatoes: ‘Solar Fire’, ‘Florasette’, ‘Tropic’, ‘Better Boy’ – good heat-set choices.
- Heirlooms: Try ‘Cherokee Purple’ or ‘Evergreen’ in the fall, but know they may be more susceptible to disease.
2. Site and Soil Preparation
Tomatoes need full sun – at least 6-8 hours of direct light. Our soil is often sandy, so amending it is non-negotiable.
- Raised Beds or Containers: Highly recommended for improved drainage and soil control. Use a mix of potting soil and compost.
- In-Ground Planting: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. Mix in generous amounts of compost or well-rotted manure to improve water retention and fertility.
- Soil pH: Aim for slightly acidic soil, between 6.2 and 6.8. A simple soil test can confirm this.
3. Planting Your Transplants
- Plant Deep: Bury the stem up to the first set of true leaves. The buried stem will grow additional roots, creating a stronger plant.
- Spacing: Place plants 24-36 inches apart for good air circulation, which is crucial for disease prevention.
- Water In: Water thoroughly immediately after planting to settle the soil.
- Mulch: Apply 2-3 inches of mulch (like pine straw or wood chips) around the base. This keeps roots cool, conserves moisture, and prevents soil-borne diseases from splashing onto leaves.
4. Ongoing Care and Maintenance
Consistent care is what gets you through the season.
- Watering: Water deeply at the base 2-3 times per week, depending on rainfall. Morning watering is best to allow leaves to dry.
- Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer at planting. Switch to a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus (like a “bloom booster”) once flowering begins to encourage fruit set.
- Support: Install cages or stakes at planting time. Indeterminate varieties will need tall, sturdy support.
- Pruning: You can prune some suckers to improve air flow, but in our climate, leaving some extra foliage can help protect fruit from sunscald.
Common South Florida Tomato Problems & Solutions
Pests
- Whiteflies: Use insecticidal soap or neem oil early. Reflective mulch can deter them. They’re the worst in hot weather.
- Tomato Hornworms: Hand-pick them off your plants. They are large and easy to spot.
- Leafminers: Remove affected leaves. They’re mostly a cosmetic issue early on.
Diseases
- Fungal Diseases (Blight, Leaf Spot): Prevent with good spacing, morning watering, and mulch. Remove affected leaves. Fungicides with chlorothalonil or copper can be used as a preventative.
- Blossom End Rot: Caused by calcium uptake issues often due to irregular watering. Maintain consistent soil moisture and ensure your soil has adequate calcium.
- Viral Diseases (TYLC): Prevented by controlling whiteflies and planting resistant varieties. There is no cure; infected plants must be removed.
Extending Your Harvest Season
With a little effort, you can keep plants productive longer. As spring heats up, use shade cloth (30-50%) to protect fruit from intense afternoon sun. Ensure consistent watering and feeding to reduce plant stress. Some gardeners have luck keeping fall-planted tomatoes going through spring with diligent care.
FAQ: Your South Florida Tomato Questions Answered
Can I grow tomatoes year-round in South Florida?
It’s very challenging. The summer heat, rain, and pests make it impractical for most gardeners. Focusing on the two optimal seasons yields better results with less effort.
Should I start from seed or buy transplants?
You can do either. Starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your planting window (so in July for fall, or November for winter) gives you more variety choice. Buying transplants from a local nursery in August/September or January is easier and ensures you get varieties that work here.
What is the best month to plant tomatoes in South Florida?
September is often considered the ideal month for the fall planting season. For the late winter planting, aim for the second week of January after any chance of a rare frost has passed.
Why are my tomato plants flowering but not setting fruit?
This is usually due to high temperatures (above 90°F daytime or 75°F nighttime). Be patient, ensure you’re using a blossom-set fertilizer, and fruit should set when nights cool down slightly. Gentle shaking of the flower clusters can help pollinate.
Can I use the same soil year after year?
It’s not recommended. Rotate your tomato family crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) to different spots each year to prevent a buildup of soil-borne diseases. Refresh container soil completely or amend garden beds deeply with new compost.
By following this optimal planting schedule and adapting your care to our subtropical conditions, you’ll be well on your way to harvesting sweet, homegrown tomatoes. Remember, timing is your most important tool—mark your calendar for late summer and late winter, and get ready for your best tomato season yet.