How To Grow Tomatillos In Containers

Want to grow your own tangy tomatillos but are short on garden space? You’re in luck. Learning how to grow tomatillos in containers is a fantastic and easy way to enjoy this unique fruit. With their papery husks and bright flavor, tomatillos thrive in pots on a sunny patio or balcony. This guide will walk you through every step for a succesful harvest.

Container gardening offers you control over soil and location, making it ideal for tomatillos. These plants are vigorous growers and produce a lot of fruit, so giving them the right home from the start is key. Let’s get your container garden started.

Why Choose Containers for Tomatillos?

Containers solve many common gardening problems. They allow for perfect soil drainage, which tomatillos love. You can also move the pots to follow the sun or shelter them from harsh weather. For renters or those with small yards, containers are the only way to grow a substantial food garden.

Space Efficiency: A single pot can yield a surprising amount of fruit.
Pest & Disease Control: Easier to manage when plants are elevated and isolated.
Soil Control: You fill the pot with the ideal, nutrient-rich mix right away.

Selecting the Perfect Container

Size matters a lot. Tomatillos have extensive root systems and can grow over 4 feet tall and wide. A small pot will stress the plant and reduce your harvest.

Minimum Size: Choose a container that holds at least 10 gallons. A 5-gallon bucket is the absolute smallest for one plant.
Material: Fabric pots, plastic, or wood are great. Terracotta dries out to fast in hot weather.
Drainage: This is non-negotiable. Ensure your pot has several large drainage holes.

Choosing Soil and Fertilizer

Never use garden soil in containers. It compacts and doesn’t drain properly. You need a quality potting mix.

Potting Mix: Use a well-draining, general-purpose potting soil. A mix for vegetables is perfect.
Fertilizer: Tomatillos are heavy feeders. Mix a slow-release granular fertilizer into the soil at planting time. Then, feed every 2-3 weeks with a liquid fertilizer high in phosphorus (like a tomato fertilizer) once flowering begins.
pH Level: They prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0-7.0). Most potting mixes are within this range.

Planting Your Tomatillos

You can start from seed indoors or buy young plants. A critical tip: you always need at least two plants. Tomatillos are not self-pollinating; they require another plant nearby to set fruit.

Timing: Plant outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and nights are consistently above 50°F.
Pot Preparation: Fill your container with moistened potting mix, leaving about 2 inches from the rim.
Planting Depth: Dig a hole as deep as the seedling’s root ball. Place the plant in and bury it slightly deeper than it was in its nursery pot. This encourages stronger roots.
Spacing: If planting two in a very large container (like a 20-gallon pot), space them at least 18 inches apart. Usually, one plant per pot is best.
Water In: Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil.

Sunlight and Placement

Tomatillos are sun worshippers. They need a full day of direct sunlight to produce well. Aim for a minimum of 8 hours of direct sun. Place your container in the sunniest spot you have. A south or west-facing location is ideal. The more sun, the sweeter and more prolific your harvest will be.

Watering and Care Schedule

Consistent watering is the secret to preventing problems like blossom end rot. Container soil dries out much faster than garden soil.

Frequency: Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry. In peak summer, this may be daily.
Method: Water at the base of the plant, not the leaves, to avoid disease. Keep watering until you see it run out the drainage holes.
Mulching: Add a 1-2 inch layer of straw or shredded bark on top of the soil. This helps retain moisture and keeps soil temperature even.

Supporting Your Plants

These plants get big and heavy with fruit. Without support, branches will sprawl and can break.

When: Install support at planting time or soon after to avoid damaging roots later.
Options: A sturdy tomato cage is the easiest choice. A wooden or metal stake works if you plan to prune and tie the main stem regularly.
Securing: As the plant grows, gently tie main branches to the support with soft plant ties or cloth strips.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning isn’t strictly necessary, but it helps manage size in containers and can improve air flow.

Suckering: You can remove the small shoots (“suckers”) that grow in the crotch between the main stem and a branch. This focuses energy on fruit production.
Bottom Leaves: As the plant matures, remove any yellowing leaves near the bottom to prevent soil-borne diseases.

Harvesting Your Container Tomatillos

Knowing when to pick is easy. The fruit fills out its papery husk. When the husk splits open or turns from green to a light tan or brown, the tomatillo inside is usually ready.

Color: The fruit itself can be green, yellow, or even purple, depending on the variety. Green is most common for harvesting.
Feel: A ripe tomatillo should feel firm but not rock-hard. It will be sticky under the husk—that’s normal!
Method: Simply twist the fruit gently until it snaps off the stem. They store well in their husks in the refrigerator for a couple weeks.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with good care, you might encounter a few issues. Here’s how to handle them.

Pests

Aphids and flea beetles are the most common. Blast aphids off with a strong spray of water. For persistent pests, use an insecticidal soap spray, following label instructions carefully.

Diseases

Fungal diseases like powdery mildew can occur. Ensure good air circulation, water at the base, and remove affected leaves. A baking soda spray can help mild cases.

Flowers But No Fruit

This almost always means you only have one plant. Remember, you need at least two for cross-pollination. If you have two, try gently shaking the plants during the day to help move pollen.

FAQ: Your Tomatillo Questions Answered

Can I grow tomatillos in a 5-gallon bucket?
Yes, but it’s the smallest size you should use. You’ll need to water and fertilize more frequently, and the plant may not reach it’s full potential size.

How many tomatillo plants per container?
Stick to one plant per 10-15 gallon container for best results. You can grow two in a larger pot, but they will compete for resources.

What are the best tomatillo varieties for pots?
Look for compact or determinate varieties like ‘Toma Verde’ or ‘Cisineros’. However, most standard varieties will do well if given a large enough container.

Do tomatillos need a trellis?
They need some form of support, whether a trellis, cage, or stake. Their branches are brittle when laden with fruit.

Why are my tomatillo leaves turning yellow?
This could be overwatering, underwatering, or a nutrient deficiency (often nitrogen). Check soil moisture first, then consider a balanced fertilizer if the plant is growing slowly.

Growing tomatillos in containers is a rewarding project that brings a unique harvest to your doorstep. With a big pot, good soil, plenty of sun, and two plants for company, you’ll be harvesting baskets of husked gems by late summer. Give it a try this season—you might find it’s easier then you thought.