Philodendron Subhastatum

If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant that combines stunning looks with a manageable care routine, the philodendron subhastatum is a top contender. This rare tropical houseplant is gaining popularity for good reason, and it might just be the perfect next addition to your indoor jungle.

Its beauty lies in the striking contrast of its foliage. The tops of the leaves are a deep, velvety green, while the undersides showcase a vibrant, rusty red color. This two-tone effect adds incredible depth and visual interest to any space. While it’s considered rare, it’s surprisingly adaptable for collectors ready to move beyond common varieties.

Understanding this plant’s background helps you care for it better. Native to parts of South America, including Colombia and Brazil, it’s a climbing hemiepiphyte. In the wild, it starts life on the forest floor and then climbs up trees, attaching itself with aerial roots. Replicating this climbing habit at home is key to its happiness and helps it develop larger, more mature leaves.

Essential Care Guide

Don’t let its exotic appearance intimidate you. The philodendron subhastatum follows a classic tropical plant care pattern, with just a few specific needs to keep in mind.

Light Requirements

This plant thrives in bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight it would receive under the jungle canopy.

A spot near an east or north-facing window is often ideal.
A few feet back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain works well too.
Direct afternoon sun will scorch the beautiful leaves, causing brown spots.
Too little light leads to leggy growth, with longer stems and smaller leaves further apart.

Watering & Humidity

Getting watering right is the most crucial part of care. This plant likes to dry out a bit between drinks.

Water thoroughly when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
Always allow excess water to drain away freely—never let it sit in a saucer of water.
Overwatering is the fastest way to cause root rot, which can be fatal.
As a tropical plant, it appreciates higher humidity (above 50%). You can use a humidifier, place it on a pebble tray, or group it with other plants.

Soil & Potting

The right soil mix ensures healthy roots by balancing moisture retention and drainage.

A perfect, simple mix includes:

2 parts high-quality potting mix
1 part perlite or pumice
1 part orchid bark or coco chips

This creates a chunky, airy medium that mimics the plant’s natural growing conditions. Ensure your pot has ample drainage holes.

Feeding & Temperature

Feed your plant during its active growing season (spring and summer) to support its growth.

Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Applying fertilizer once a month is usually sufficient.
Stop feeding in fall and winter when growth naturally slows.
Keep it in a warm room between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Protect it from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops.

Support & Pruning

Since it’s a natural climber, providing a support structure is non-negotiable for a healthy, attractive philodendron subhastatum.

You have several excellent options:

Moss Pole: The best choice. Its aerial roots can attach to the moist moss, which encourages larger leaf growth.
Coco Coir Pole or Wooden Plank: Also great textured surfaces for roots to grip.
Totem or Trellis: Can be used for creative shaping.

To attach the plant, gently use soft plant ties or velcro straps. Don’t tie it too tightly. As for pruning, it’s mainly for shape or to remove any old, yellowing leaves. Always use clean, sharp scissors to make clean cuts.

Propagation Made Simple

Sharing or expanding your collection is easy through stem cuttings. Here’s how to do it successfully in a few steps.

Choose a Healthy Stem: Look for a section with at least one node (the bump where leaves and roots emerge) and 2-3 leaves.
Make the Cut: Using sterilized shears, cut about a quarter-inch below a node.
Rooting Medium: Place the cutting in water or directly into a moist sphagnum moss/perlite mix. Ensure the node is submerged or buried.
Provide Ideal Conditions: Put it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light. If using moss, keep it consistently moist but not soggy.
Wait for Roots: In water, you’ll see roots forming in a few weeks. In moss, gently tug on the cutting after a month; resistance means roots have developed.
Potting Up: Once roots are an inch or two long, pot the new plant into your chunky aroid soil mix.

Common Problems & Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems.

Yellowing Leaves

This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture immediately. If it’s very wet, let it dry out completely before watering again and consider if the pot needs better drainage.

Brown Leaf Tips or Edges

Usually caused by low humidity or a buildup of salts/minerals from tap water. Try increasing humidity around the plant and use filtered, rainwater, or distilled water when possible.

Leggy Growth with Small Leaves

This signals insufficient light. Move the plant gradually closer to a brighter light source. Also, check if it has a support pole to climb; climbing encourages bigger leaves.

Pests

Like many houseplants, it can occasionally attract pests like spider mites, mealybugs, or thrips.

Isolate the affected plant to prevent spread.
Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or spray with a gentle stream of water.
For persistent issues, use insecticidal soap or neem oil, applying as directed.

Display & Styling Tips

The philodendron subhastatum’s dramatic foliage makes it a natural statement piece. Its climbing nature offers fun styling options.

Place it where the red undersides can be appreciated, like on a shelf you look slightly up at. Let it climb a moss pole in a decorative pot for a vertical accent in a corner. You can also train it along a wall-mounted trellis for a living art installation. Its elegant, elongated leaves pair beautifully with plants that have rounded or highly textured leaves, like a Monstera deliciosa or a peperomia.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the philodendron subhastatum toxic?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.

How fast does subhastatum philodendron grow?

With good light, proper watering, and a support to climb, it has a moderate growth rate. You can expect several new leaves each growing season.

Why are my philodendron subhastatum leaves not red?

The intensity of the red underside can vary. Mature leaves typically show the strongest color. Sufficient bright, indirect light also helps develop the vibrant reddish hue on the back of the leaves.

Should I mist my philodendron subhastatum?

Misting provides only a very temporary boost in humidity and can promote fungal issues on leaves if overdone. Using a humidifier or a pebble tray is a more effective and consistent method for raising humidity.

When should I repot my philodendron subhastatum?

Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot or growing out of the drainage holes. Only move up one pot size (1-2 inches larger in diameter) to prevent excess wet soil.

Caring for a philodendron subhastatum is a rewarding experience for any plant enthusiast. Its stunning two-toned leaves and vining habit bring a peice of the tropical rainforest into your home. By providing the right light, careful watering, and a simple support structure, you’ll be able to enjoy this rare and beautiful plant for many years to come. Remember, the key is to observe your plant and adjust it’s care as needed—it will tell you what it wants.