How To Transplant Shrubs

Moving a shrub can feel like a big task, but with the right know-how, you can give your plant a fresh start with great success. This step-by-step guide for how to transplant shrubs will walk you through the entire process, from timing to aftercare. Whether you’re redesigning a garden bed or moving a favorite plant to a better spot, these steps will help ensure it thrives in its new home.

Transplanting is more than just digging and moving. It’s about minimizing shock to the plant’s roots and helping it re-establish quickly. The key steps are choosing the right time, preparing the new hole, digging up the shrub properly, and providing excellent follow-up care. Let’s break it down.

The Best Time to Move Your Shrub

Timing is the most critical factor for success. The ideal period is when the shrub is dormant. This means it’s not actively putting energy into new leaves or flowers.

For Deciduous Shrubs (those that lose leaves): Move them in late fall after leaf drop or in early spring before buds break. The cool, moist soil helps roots recover.
For Evergreen Shrubs: The best time is early fall or late spring. Avoid hot, dry summer months if possible.
General Rule: Avoid transplanting during summer heat or winter freeze. If you must move a shrub in summer, be prepared for extra watering and shade protection.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gathering your tools before you start makes the job smoother. Here’s what you’ll need:

Sharp spade and/or shovel
Garden fork
Burlap or an old tarp for moving
Pruning shears (sharp and clean)
Measuring tape
Hose and water source
Organic compost or peat moss
Mulch (wood chips or shredded bark)

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole

Always dig the new hole before you dig up the shrub. This reduces the time the roots are exposed to air. The new hole should be two to three times wider than the shrub’s rootball, but only as deep as the rootball is tall. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can suffocate roots.

Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost to improve drainage and nutrients. Have this amended soil ready beside the hole.

Step 2: Prune and Water the Shrub

A day or two before the move, give the shrub a deep watering. Moist soil holds together better and hydrates the roots. You can also do light pruning to remove any dead or very long branches. This reduces the plant’s top growth, which helps balance the loss of roots during digging.

Step 3: Dig Up the Shrub

This is the most physical part. Your goal is to preserve as much of the root system as possible.

Estimate the Rootball: For every inch of the shrub’s trunk diameter, you’ll want to save 10-12 inches of rootball width. A 2-inch thick trunk needs a 20-24 inch wide rootball.
Cut the Roots: Use your sharp spade to slice vertically into the soil, cutting a circle around the shrub at your calculated distance. This severs long roots cleanly.
Undercut the Rootball: After cutting the circle, start digging at an angle under the shrub to sever the taproots. Use your garden fork to gently loosen the soil from underneath.
Lift the Shrub: Once the rootball is free, carefully slide the burlap or tarp under it. Use the material to lift and drag the shrub to its new location. Avoid lifting by the trunk, which can damage the roots.

Step 4: Planting in the New Location

Now, place your shrub into its prepared hole. Check that the top of the rootball is level with or slightly above the surrounding ground. Backfill with your amended soil, tamping it down gently with your foot to remove large air pockets.

As you fill, water lightly to help settle the soil. Once the hole is filled, create a low soil berm (a ring) around the edge of the planting hole. This berm will act as a basin to hold water directly over the root zone.

Step 5: Immediate Aftercare

Your job isn’t done once the shrub is in the ground. The first year is crucial for establishment.

Water Deeply: Give it a very thorough soaking right after planting. Then, water regularly—deeply once or twice a week—depending on weather. The goal is consistently moist, not soggy, soil.
Apply Mulch: Spread 2-3 inches of mulch around the base of the shrub, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses weeds.
Hold Off on Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time. Fresh fertilizer can burn new roots. Wait until you see new growth, usually the next growing season.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors during transplanting. Here’s what to watch out for:

Planting Too Deep: This is the number one cause of failure. The root flare (where trunk meets roots) should be visible.
Not Watering Enough: Newly moved shrubs need consistent moisture. Don’t rely on rain alone.
Choosing the Wrong Site: Make sure the new location has the right sunlight and soil conditions for that specific shrub.
Damaging the Rootball: Be gentle when moving it. A broken rootball loses many fine, critical roots.

Special Case: Transplanting Large or Mature Shrubs

Moving a big, established shrub is more challenging and riskier. Consider hiring a professional for valuable specimens. If you proceed, plan to take an even larger rootball and be prepared for a heavier plant. You may need extra help or equipment like a dolly. Pruning more aggressively beforehand is often necessary to compensate for greater root loss.

Signs of Transplant Shock and Recovery

Some wilting or leaf drop is normal. This is transplant shock. Continue your diligent watering and care. If the shrub shows no new growth by midsummer, the branches may be dead—scratch the bark with your fingernail; green underneath means it’s still alive. Be patient; recovery can take a full season or two.

FAQ: Your Transplanting Questions Answered

How often should I water a newly transplanted shrub?
Water deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, then adjust based on weather. The soil should feel moist a few inches down.

Can I move a shrub in full bloom?
It’s not recommended. The plant is putting energy into flowers, not roots. You’ll likely lose the blooms and stress the plant severely. Wait until after it flowers or during dormancy.

What’s the best way to ensure the shrub survives the move?
The three biggest factors are timing (dormant season), preserving a large, intact rootball, and providing consistent, deep watering after the move.

Should I amend the soil in the new hole?
Yes, mixing compost with the native soil is beneficial. But avoid creating a “pot” effect where the roots don’t want to leave the rich hole. Blend the compost well.

How long before the shrub is established?
It typically takes one full growing season per inch of trunk diameter for a shrub to fully establish its new root system. So a 2-inch thick shrub needs about two years of attentive care.

Transplanting shrubs is a rewarding garden project that can completely refresh your landscape. By following this methodical approach—prioritizing the right timing, careful digging, and dedicated aftercare—you give your plants the best possible chance to flourish in their new spot. Remember, the extra effort you put in during the first few months makes all the difference for years of healthy growth.