If you’re a California gardener, knowing when to plant garlic is the first step to a successful harvest. The optimal timing for planting garlic in California varies across our diverse climate zones, but getting it right means bigger, better bulbs next summer.
Planting at the correct time allows the garlic to establish roots before winter, leading to vigorous growth in spring. Missing this window can result in small bulbs or plants that don’t mature properly. Let’s break down the best schedule for your specific area.
When To Plant Garlic In California
For most of California, the prime planting window falls in October and November. This timing is crucial because it gives the cloves a chance to develop roots and maybe a bit of top growth before cooler weather slows them down. They then rest over winter and explode with growth when temperatures warm again.
In warmer inland and southern regions, you can often plant into December. In colder mountain areas, you’ll want to aim for September or early October so the cloves get settled before the ground freezes. The general rule is to plant after the first light frost but well before a hard freeze.
Understanding California’s Climate Zones
California’s size creates many microclimates. We can group them into three general categories for garlic planting.
Coastal and Northern California
This includes areas like the San Francisco Bay Area, the Central Coast, and counties north of the Bay. Mild, wet winters are common here. Your best bet is to plant from mid-October through November. The soil is still warm from summer, but the cooler air temperatures and incoming rain promote perfect root growth.
Inland and Southern California
This covers the Central Valley, Los Angeles Basin, and inland Southern areas. Winters are cooler but rarely severe, and summers are hot. Here, you can plant from late October through December. Sometimes, you might even plant in early January if the winter stays mild, but earlier is generally better for larger bulbs.
Mountain and High-Desert Regions
In the Sierra Nevada foothills or high-desert zones, winters are cold with frost and snow. Aim to get your garlic in the ground in September or the first half of October. This gives the cloves a solid 4-6 weeks to root before the soil becomes too cold and frozen.
Choosing Your Garlic Type: Hardneck vs. Softneck
Your location influences which type of garlic will grow best. Choosing the right type is as important as the planting date.
- Softneck Garlic: This is the classic type for California, especially in milder zones. It produces more cloves per bulb, stores exceptionally well (often up to a year), and doesn’t produce a woody flower stalk (called a scape). It’s ideal for braiding. Popular varieties include ‘California Early’ and ‘California Late’.
- Hardneck Garlic: Better suited for colder mountain regions with a real winter chill. They produce fewer, larger cloves around a central stalk and send up a delicious edible scape in spring. The flavor is often more complex, but they don’t store as long as softnecks. ‘Music’ and ‘German Red’ are good choices.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Once you have your timing and garlic type, follow these steps.
- Source Your Garlic: Always buy certified disease-free seed garlic from a nursery or reputable online supplier. Do not plant garlic from the grocery store, as it may be treated to prevent sprouting and could introduce disease.
- Prepare the Soil: Garlic needs loose, fertile soil with excellent drainage. Choose a sunny spot. Work in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure. A balanced organic fertilizer mixed in at planting provides good nutrients.
- Break the Bulbs: Gently break the bulb into individual cloves just before planting. Keep the papery skin on each clove. Plant only the largest, healthiest-looking cloves—the smaller ones won’t produce big bulbs.
- Plant the Cloves: Plant cloves pointy-end up, root-side down. Bury them about 2-3 inches deep. Space cloves 4-6 inches apart in rows that are 12 inches apart.
- Water and Mulch: Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. Then, apply a thick layer (4-6 inches) of straw, dried leaves, or grass clippings. This mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and protects the cloves from temperature swings.
Caring for Your Garlic Through the Seasons
Garlic is a low-maintenance crop, but it does need consistent care.
- Winter: Little care is needed. The mulch will do most of the work. Ensure the bed doesn’t stay waterlogged in heavy rains.
- Spring: As growth resumes, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer like blood meal in early spring. If you’re growing hardneck varieties, remove the curly scapes when they appear to direct energy to the bulb.
- Late Spring/Summer: In May or June, stop watering. This allows the bulbs to begin curing in the ground. The leaves will start to yellow and brown from the bottom up—this is normal.
Harvesting and Curing
Knowing when to harvest is key. For most California gardens, harvest time is from late May through July, depending on your planting date and climate.
Harvest when about half of the lower leaves have turned brown, but there are still 5-6 green leaves at the top. Use a garden fork to gently loosen the soil and lift the bulbs. Avoid pulling by the stem, as it can break.
Brush off excess dirt, but don’t wash the bulbs. Cure them in a warm, dry, shaded place with good air circulation for 3-4 weeks. After curing, trim the roots and cut the stalks (unless you’re planning to braid softnecks). Store your cured garlic in a cool, dark place.
Common Problems and Solutions
Garlic is relatively pest-resistant, but a few issues can pop up.
- White Rot: A fungal disease causing yellow leaves and white mold on the bulb. It persists in soil for years. Prevention is key: rotate your garlic bed every 3-4 years and plant only certified disease-free stock.
- Onion Thrips: Tiny insects that cause silvery streaks on leaves. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap can help control them.
- Overwatering: The most common mistake in winter. Soggy soil causes rot. Ensure your bed has perfect drainage and let the soil dry slightly between winter waterings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant garlic from the grocery store in California?
It’s not recommended. Grocery store garlic is often from varieties not suited to our climate and may be treated with sprout inhibitors. It can also carry soil-borne diseases. Always start with certified seed garlic for the best results.
What happens if I plant garlic too late in California?
Late-planted cloves won’t develop adequate root systems before spring. This results in significantly smaller bulbs at harvest time. They might not even devide properly, producing a single large clove (called a “round”) instead of a segmented bulb.
Can I plant garlic in the spring in California?
Spring planting is not adviseable for a traditional bulb harvest. Without a winter chilling period, the cloves may not differentiate. If planted in spring, they will likely produce only green garlic (like a green onion) or a single round, not a full bulb.
How do I know if my garlic is ready to harvest?
Watch the leaves. When roughly 50% of the leaves have turned brown (starting from the bottom), and 5-6 are still green, it’s harvest time. Don’t wait for all the leaves to die back, as the bulbs can begin to split and won’t store well.
What are the best companion plants for garlic in my garden?
Garlic gets along with many plants! It can help deter pests from roses, tomatoes, and fruit trees. Good garden neighbors include lettuce, spinach, and chamomile. Avoid planting it too close to peas or beans, as it can inhibit there growth.
Getting your garlic in the ground at the right moment sets the stage for everything that follows. By matching the optimal timing for planting garlic in California to your local climate and following these simple steps, you’ll be on your way to a bountiful harvest of homegrown garlic that’s full of flavor.