Moving a mature boxwood shrub can feel like a big task, but with the right know-how, you can ensure its success. This expert step-by-step guide to transplanting boxwoods shrubs will walk you through the entire process, from timing to aftercare. Whether you’re redesigning a garden border or moving a cherished plant to a better spot, these steps will help your boxwood thrive in its new home.
Transplanting Boxwoods Shrubs
Boxwoods are classic foundation plants known for their versatility and evergreen foliage. They establish deep, fibrous root systems, which is why a careful approach is so important. Rushing the job can shock the plant, leading to set-back or loss. The key is patience and preparation, focusing on the root ball’s health above all else.
Why Timing is Everything for Boxwood Transplant
The single most important factor for success is when you choose to move your shrub. The ideal time is during the plant’s dormant season. This is when the boxwood is not actively putting energy into top growth, allowing it to focus on re-establishing its roots.
For most climates, late fall is the perfect window. The soil is still warm, which encourages root growth, but the air is cool, reducing stress on the foliage. Early spring, just as the ground thaws but before new growth emerges, is the second-best option. Avoid transplanting in summer’s heat or the deep freeze of winter.
Essential Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Gathering your tools before you start makes the process smoother. You won’t want to leave a dug-up plant to search for something missing. Here’s what you should have ready:
- A sharp, clean spade
- A garden fork
- Burlap or an old tarp for moving the root ball
- A wheelbarrow or cart (for larger shrubs)
- Sharp pruning shears
- Quality garden soil and compost for amending
- A hose and water source
- Mulch (like pine bark or shredded leaves)
Step-by-Step: How to Transplant Your Boxwood
Follow these steps in order for the best outcome. Plan to do this on a cloudy, cool day to further minimize stress on the plant.
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole before you dig up the shrub. This minimizes the time the roots are exposed. The hole should be about twice as wide as the estimated root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is tall. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can suffocate roots.
Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost to improve drainage and provide nutrients. Set this amended soil aside for backfilling later.
Step 2: Prune and Water the Boxwood
A day or two before the move, give the boxwood a deep, thorough watering. This hydrates the roots and helps the soil hold together. You can also do a light pruning at this time to remove any dead or thin branches, but avoid heavy shaping.
Step 3: Dig Out the Root Ball
Start by using your spade to cut a circle in the soil around the shrub. The diameter should be roughly one foot for every inch of the trunk’s diameter. For a mature boxwood, this circle can be sizable—don’t underestimate it.
Push your spade in deep, angling slightly inward, to cut under the root system. Use the garden fork to gently loosen the soil around the edges. The goal is to preserve as much of the root system and its surrounding soil as possible.
Step 4: Lift and Move the Shrub
Once the root ball is undercut, carefully slide the burlap or tarp under one side. Gently rock the shrub to get the material fully underneath. Lift the shrub from the bottom using the tarp, not by its trunk. This support prevents the root ball from breaking apart.
Transport it directly to the new hole. If you must delay planting, keep the root ball shaded and moist.
Step 5: Planting in the New Location
Place the boxwood in the center of the new hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or just slightly above the surrounding ground. This is critical for good drainage. Backfill the hole with your amended soil, tamping it down gently as you go to remove large air pockets.
Create a shallow soil berm around the outer edge of the hole to form a watering basin. This directs water to the roots where its needed most.
Step 6: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
Immediately after planting, give the boxwood a slow, deep watering. This settles the soil around the roots. Apply 2-3 inches of mulch around the base of the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the main stem. Mulch conserves moisture and regulates soil temperature.
Critical Aftercare for Transplanted Boxwoods
Your job isn’t over once the shrub is in the ground. Consistent aftercare is what ensures recovery and new growth.
- Watering: This is the most important task. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) for the entire first year, especially during dry spells. Deep watering once or twice a week is better than frequent light sprinklings.
- Hold Off on Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time or for the first growing season. Fertilizer can burn new, tender roots. Let the plant focus on root establishment first.
- Monitor for Stress: Some leaf yellowing or browning is normal after transplant. Avoid the urge to over-prune. You can trim off obviously dead branches in late spring after new growth appears.
- Winter Protection: For fall transplants, consider applying an anti-desiccant spray to the leaves in late fall to reduce moisture loss. A layer of extra mulch after the ground freezes can also protect new roots.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors during transplant. Here’s what to watch out for:
- Digging too small a root ball: Boxwood roots are dense. Taking a generous root ball is non-negotiable for health.
- Planting too deep: This is a leading cause of failure. The root flare should be visible at the soil surface.
- Inconsistent watering: Letting the root ball dry out completely in the first few months can be fatal.
- Wrong season: Transplanting in hot, dry weather puts immense stress on the plant and should be avoided if possible.
FAQ: Your Boxwood Transplant Questions Answered
Can I transplant a large, mature boxwood?
Yes, but it requires more manpower and care. The root ball will be very heavy. For shrubs over 3 feet tall, consider hiring a professional with the right equipment to avoid injury to you or the plant.
How soon after transplanting will my boxwood show new growth?
Patience is key. If transplanted in fall, you likely won’t see significant new top growth until the following spring. The plant is busy growing roots underground first, which is a good sign.
What if my transplanted boxwood turns yellow?
Some yellowing of interior leaves is common due to shock. Ensure your watering schedule is consistent. If new growth is yellow or the entire plant is discoloring, it could signal over-watering, poor drainage, or a soil pH issue.
Is it better to move boxwoods in spring or fall?
Fall is generally preferred because the warm soil promotes root growth. Spring is fine, but you must be diligent with watering through the coming summer heat. Avoid summer transplanting altogether.
Should I use a root stimulator when transplanting boxwood shrubs?
You can use a vitamin B-1 or root-stimulating product according to the label instructions. While not strictly necessary, it may help reduce transplant shock and encourage root development. It’s not a substitute for proper planting technique and aftercare, however.
Transplanting boxwoods shrubs is a very manageable project with a high success rate when you follow these guidelines. The process relies on good timing, careful handeling of the root system, and committed aftercare. By giving your boxwood a solid start in its new location, you’ll be rewarded with its beautiful structure and year-round color for many seasons to come. Remember, the effort you put in during the first year sets the stage for it’s future health and growth.