If you want a weed-free garden bed or a clean path, knowing how to put down landscape fabric is a fundamental skill. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing the right material to securing it properly.
Landscape fabric, also known as weed barrier, is a permeable textile that blocks sunlight to stop weeds while letting water and air reach your soil. It’s a great solution for under mulch, gravel paths, or rock gardens. When installed correctly, it saves you countless hours of weeding. When done poorly, it can be a frustrating mess. Let’s make sure you get it right the first time.
How to Put Down Landscape Fabric
Before you unroll any fabric, you need to gather your tools and prepare the area. Rushing this part is the biggest mistake beginners make.
What You’ll Need:
* Landscape fabric (woven polypropylene is best for durability)
* Garden rake and shovel
* Tape measure and utility knife or scissors
* Landscape fabric pins or staples (U-shaped pins)
* A hammer or mallet
* Wheelbarrow (for removing debris)
* Work gloves
* Mulch, gravel, or other top dressing
Step 1: Clear and Level the Area
First, you need a clean slate. Remove all existing weeds, grass, rocks, and sticks from the area. If there’s grass, use a shovel or sod cutter to remove it. For persistent perennial weeds, it’s worth taking the time to dig out the roots completely.
Next, rake the soil smooth. Break up any large clumps and remove any new debris you uncover. The goal is a relatively level surface. You don’t need it perfectly flat, but major bumps and dips will cause the fabric to pucker or tear later. A good, smooth base makes everything else easier.
Step 2: Measure and Cut Your Fabric
Roll out your landscape fabric loosely over the prepared area. It’s easier to cut it roughly to size while it’s lying on top. Leave at least 3-6 inches of extra fabric along all edges. You can always trim more later, but you can’t add it back.
Use a sharp utility knife or heavy-duty scissors to cut the fabric. A knife often works better on tough material. For straight cuts, you can use a board as a guide. Remember, you’ll be overlapping seams, so account for that in your measurements. It’s better to use multiple, manageable pieces than one giant, awkward sheet.
Step 3: Lay the First Section
Start at one end of your project area. Unroll the first piece of fabric slowly, keeping it straight. Smooth it out as you go to avoid wrinkles. The side that feels slightly smoother or has a sheen is typically the treated side; this water-resistant side should face up. The rougher side goes down against the soil for better grip.
Make sure the fabric lays flat against the soil, conforming to any gentle contours. Don’t pull it drum-tight; a little slack is okay and prevents stress tears. If you’re working on a slope, always start at the bottom and work your way up. This way, each higher piece overlaps the one below it, like shingles, so water runs over the seams instead of under them.
Step 4: Secure with Pins and Overlap Seams
Now, anchor the fabric. Use your landscape fabric pins or staples every 3 to 5 feet along the edges and seams. Space them closer together (every 1-2 feet) in windy areas or on slopes. Hammer them in firmly until the head is flush with the fabric.
When you need to add another piece of fabric, overlap the edges by at least 6 inches. This is crucial to prevent weeds from finding a gap and pushing through the seam. Secure this overlapped area with extra pins. Never butt the edges together or, worse, leave a gap. Weeds are experts at exploiting tiny openings.
Step 5: Cut Holes for Existing Plants
If you have shrubs, trees, or perennials already in the bed, you’ll need to cut openings for them. From the edge of the fabric, make an X-shaped slit from the center out towards the plant’s stem. The slit should be just big enough to fit the plant through.
Gently pull the fabric around the base of the plant. Keep the fabric as close to the stem as possible without bunching it up. You can use a few pins to hold the flaps down if needed, but avoid piling mulch directly against the plant’s crown, as this can cause rot. The goal is to cover the soil without harming the plant.
Step 6: Trim the Edges and Add Top Dressing
Once all fabric is laid, pinned, and fitted around plants, trim the excess edges with your utility knife. Tuck the trimmed edges down slightly along borders or under hardscape edges for a clean look.
The final, essential step is to cover the fabric immediately. Exposed fabric breaks down quickly from UV sunlight. Add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, bark, or at least 2 inches of gravel or stone. This covering protects the fabric, looks attractive, and adds weight to hold everything in place. It also further blocks light from any stubborn weed seeds.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with the best steps, small errors can ruin your hard work. Here’s what to watch out for.
Using the Wrong Fabric: Avoid cheap, non-woven felt or plastic sheeting. Non-woven fabrics often clog and don’t let water through well. Plastic creates puddles and kills soil health. Invest in a quality woven polypropylene fabric.
Skipping the Overlap: That 6-inch overlap isn’t a suggestion. A small overlap will shift and create a highway for weeds. Be generous with your seam overlaps.
Forgetting to Cover It: Landscape fabric is not a finished product. Sunlight will degrade it in a single season. Always cover it with your chosen material right after installation.
Piling Mulch Too High: Over time, mulch breaks down into soil. If you pile it 6 inches deep on top of fabric, weed seeds will germinate in that new soil layer on top of your barrier. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch is sufficient.
Maintaining Your Landscape Fabric
A little upkeep extends the life of your installation. Each spring, rake your mulch to freshen it and break up any matting. Add a thin new layer as needed to maintain the 2-3 inch depth. Inspect the edges and seams for any signs of fabric pulling up or weeds poking through. Push pins back in or add new ones.
If a weed does appear, pull it immediately before it’s root system can penetrate the fabric. Most will be shallow and easy to remove. Over many years (typically 5-10 for good fabric), the material will begin to break down. When it starts to fray and fall apart, it’s time to remove and replace it, which is a whole other project.
FAQ: Your Landscape Fabric Questions Answered
Q: Can I put landscape fabric over existing weeds?
A: No. You must remove all existing vegetation. Weeds will grow right through the fabric if they are already established. They can also decompose under it and create lumpy, uneven soil.
Q: What goes down first, mulch or landscape fabric?
A: The fabric always goes down directly on the soil. The mulch is always layered on top of the fabric to protect it.
Q: How do you secure landscape fabric?
A: You secure it using landscape fabric pins (also called staples) hammered into the ground. On hard surfaces, you might use adhesive or border restraints.
Q: Should landscape fabric go under gravel?
A: Yes, installing a weed barrier under gravel is highly recommended. It prevents weeds and stops the gravel from sinking into the soil over time, saving you money and maintenance.
Q: Can water get through landscape fabric?
A: Quality woven fabric is designed to be permeable, allowing water and air to pass through to the soil below. This is why choosing the right type is so important.
Q: How to lay weed barrier around trees?
A: Use the X-slit method described in Step 5. Never wrap it around the trunk like a collar, as this can harm the tree. Keep the material away from direct contact with the bark.
Installing landscape fabric is a straightforward weekend project with long-term benefits. By following this simple step-by-step guide, you’ll create a clean, low-maintenance base for your garden beds and paths. The key is in the preparation, careful installation, and proper covering. With the fabric in place, you’ll spend less time pulling weeds and more time enjoying your outdoor space.