Phalaenopsis Violacea – Exotic Purple Orchid

If you’re looking for a truly special orchid to add to your collection, the Phalaenopsis violacea is a stunning choice. This exotic purple orchid is known for its captivating beauty and sweet fragrance.

It’s a favorite among enthusiasts for good reason. Its compact growth and unique blooms make it a rewarding plant to grow. Let’s look at how you can care for this remarkable species successfully.

Phalaenopsis Violacea

Often called the “violet Phalaenopsis,” this orchid is native to the humid, tropical rainforests of Malaysia and Indonesia. Unlike the standard complex hybrid phals you see in stores, Phalaenopsis violacea is a species orchid.

This means it grows naturally in the wild. Its characteristics are pure and unchanged by human hybridization. It’s prized for its waxy, star-shaped flowers and lovely scent, often compared to citrus or roses.

Key Characteristics and Appearance

The most striking feature is, of course, its color. The blooms are typically a soft violet-purple with a brighter, white-edged lip. Some varieties may show more green or blue tones.

Here’s what else defines this plant:

  • Flowers: They are smaller than hybrid phal blooms, usually about 2 inches across. The petals and sepals are thick and waxy.
  • Fragrance: The scent is strongest in the morning and early afternoon. It’s a major part of its appeal.
  • Growth Habit: It’s a monopodial orchid, meaning it grows from a single stem. It’s compact, with leaves usually under 8 inches long.
  • Bloom Pattern: It can bloom sequentially, meaning new flowers open as old ones fade. A single spike can provide color for many months.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Recreating its natural habitat is the key to success. This orchid thrives in warm, humid, and shaded conditions. Think of the dappled light under a dense forest canopy.

Light Requirements

Provide bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is perfect. A south or west window needs sheer curtains to filter the strong sun.

Too much direct light will scorch the leaves, causing yellow or brown patches. Too little light will result in dark green, floppy leaves and no flowers.

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Temperature & Humidity

This plant likes it warm and steady. Aim for daytime temperatures between 75°F and 85°F (24°C-29°C). Nighttime temps can drop to 65°F-70°F (18°C-21°C).

A slight drop at night can help initiate blooming. Humidity should be high, ideally between 60% and 80%. You can raise humidity by:

  • Using a humidifier near your plants.
  • Placing pots on a pebble tray filled with water.
  • Grouping plants together.

Step-by-Step Care Guide

Consistent care is simpler than you might think. Follow these steps to keep your orchid healthy and encourage regular flowering.

1. Watering Correctly

Water quality matters. Use rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis water if your tap water is hard. Water thoroughly when the potting mix is almost dry but still slightly damp.

Never let the roots sit in soggy media. In warmer months, this might be every 3-5 days. In cooler months, it might be every 7-10 days. The pot should feel light before you water again.

2. Choosing the Right Potting Mix

This orchid is usually grown in a very airy, chunky mix. Excellent drainage is non-negotiable. A common mix includes:

  • Medium-grade fir bark
  • Sphagnum moss (a small amount to retain some moisture)
  • Perlite or charcoal chunks
  • Sometimes tree fern fiber

Repot every 1-2 years, or when the mix starts to break down and become sour. Spring is the best time, after flowering.

3. Fertilizing for Growth and Blooms

Feed weakly, weekly. Use a balanced orchid fertilizer (like 20-20-20) at 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength.

Apply it every other watering during the growing season (spring and summer). In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once a month. Flush the pot with plain water monthly to prevent salt buildup from the fertilizer.

4. Encouraging Reblooming

After the last flower falls, you have a choice with the spike. You can cut it off at the base if it turns brown. If it stays green, you can leave it, as Phalaenopsis violacea often produces new flower branches from old spikes.

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Ensure it gets that slight nighttime temperature drop and adequate light. With good care, it can bloom multiple times a year.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even experienced gardeners face issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems with your exotic purple orchid.

  • Leaf Wrinkling: This is usually a sign of underwatering or root loss. Check the roots. If they are firm and plump (silver-green when dry, green when wet), you may just need to water more often. If roots are mushy or papery, you need to repot and remove the dead roots.
  • No Fragrance: The scent is often temperature and light dependent. It might be stronger on warm, bright days. Some clones are also simply more fragrant than others.
  • Bud Blast: If buds dry up and fall before opening, it’s often due to a sudden change in environment—a draft, a big temperature swing, or low humidity. Try to keep its location consistent.
  • Pests: Watch for scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. Wipe leaves with a soft cloth regularly. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil, applied according to the instructions.

Propagating Phalaenopsis Violacea

You can propagate this orchid, but patience is required. The most common method for home growers is through keikis (Hawaiian for “baby”).

Sometimes, a plant will produce a keiki naturally on an old flower spike. You can also use keiki paste, a hormonal growth stimulant, to encourage one.

  1. Wait until the keiki has developed at least three leaves and several roots that are 2-3 inches long.
  2. Using a sterile knife or clippers, cut the keiki from the mother plant, including its roots.
  3. Pot the keiki in a small container with a fine-grade orchid mix (more moss is okay here).
  4. Provide high humidity and slightly warmer temperatures until you see new growth, indicating it has established.
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FAQ Section

How is Phalaenopsis violacea different from a regular purple moth orchid?
The store-bought purple moth orchid is usually a complex hybrid, bred for large, round flowers and long bloom time. Phalaenopsis violacea is a species with smaller, star-shaped, waxy flowers and a significant fragrance, which many hybrids lack.

Why are the leaves on my violet phalaenopsis turning red?
A reddish tint, especially around the leaf edges, often indicates very high light levels. While some color is normal, a deep red means it’s getting too much direct sun and you should move it to a slightly shadier spot.

Can I grow this purple orchid in a terrarium?
Yes, its need for high humidity makes it a good candidate for a large, well-ventilated terrarium or orchidarium. Just ensure there is good air movement to prevent rot and that lights are not too intense or close to the leaves.

How often should a violacea orchid bloom?
A healthy, mature plant can bloom 2-3 times per year under ideal conditions. Its blooming season is not strictly fixed and can occur from spring through fall.

Is it better to grow it mounted or potted?
It can be grown mounted on cork or tree fern plaques, which mimics its natural growth. This requires very high humidity and frequent watering. For most home growers, potting in a chunky mix in a slotted orchid pot is more practical and forgiving.

Cultivating the Phalaenopsis violacea is a truly enjoyable experience for any orchid lover. Its stunning color and delightful perfume offer a unique reward. By providing the warm, humid, and shaded environment it prefers, you’ll be able to enjoy the exotic purple orchid’s spectacular display for years to come. Remember, the key is observing your plant and adjusting care as needed—it will tell you what it wants.