Learning how to transplant strawberry runners is one of the smartest ways to expand your berry patch for free. This simple step-by-step guide will show you exactly when and how to do it, ensuring your new plants thrive.
Strawberries are generous plants. After fruiting, they send out long stems called runners. These runners seek soil to root and create new, independent strawberry plants. By transplanting these, you can fill your garden with productive, healthy strawberries without a trip to the nursery. It’s easy, cost-effective, and deeply satisfying.
How to Transplant Strawberry Runners – Simple Step-by-Step Guide
This main section walks you through the entire process. We’ll start with the best time to do the work and gather your supplies.
When is the Best Time to Transplant Strawberry Runners?
Timing is crucial for success. The ideal window is late summer to early fall, about 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date.
- This gives the new plants enough time to establish a strong root system in their new location before winter dormancy.
- The weather is cooler, reducing transplant shock and the need for constant watering.
- You can also transplant in early spring, but fall planting often yields stronger plants that will produce better in their first full season.
What You’ll Need: Tools & Supplies
Gathering your tools beforehand makes the job smooth. You likely have most of these already.
- Sharp garden scissors or pruners
- A small trowel or garden knife
- Small pots (3-4 inch) or prepared garden bed space
- High-quality potting mix or compost-amended garden soil
- Watering can or hose with a gentle spray nozzle
- Optional: wooden skewers or landscape pins to hold runners in place
Selecting the Healthiest Runners to Transplant
Not every runner is created equal. Choosing the best ones sets you up for success.
- Look for runners coming from healthy, vigorous mother plants that produced well.
- Select runners that have developed a clear “baby” plant (called a daughter plant) with several small leaves.
- The daughter plant should have visible root nubs or, even better, small white roots already starting to form. Avoid runners with yellowing leaves or signs of disease.
- A strong mother plant can support rooting 2-3 runners per season. Don’t take to many, as it can weaken the main plant.
Method 1: Transplanting Runners While Still Attached
This is the safest method, as the daughter plant continues to get nutrients from the mother while it roots. It’s great for beginners.
- Fill your small pots with moist potting mix and place them near the mother plant.
- Identify your chosen daughter plant on the runner. Gently guide it onto the soil surface of the pot.
- Use a bent paperclip, landscape pin, or a small stone to lightly pin the runner stem (just behind the daughter plant) into the soil. Don’t sever the runner from the mother yet.
- Water the pot gently. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
- In 3-4 weeks, check for root growth by giving the daughter plant a very gentle tug. If it resists, it has rooted.
- Once rooted, snip the runner stem connecting it to the mother plant. Let it grow in the pot for another week or two before transplanting to its final spot.
Method 2: Direct Transplanting to a New Bed
If you have a prepared garden bed ready, you can transplant runners directly. This works well if your mother plants are in pots or raised beds near the new location.
- Prepare the new planting area by working in compost or well-rotted manure. Ensure the soil is loose and drains well.
- Follow steps 1-3 from Method 1, but instead of a pot, pin the daughter plant directly into the soil of the new bed.
- Water thoroughly. You’ll need to monitor moisture closely, as beds dry out faster than pots.
- After confirmed rooting (in 3-4 weeks), sever the connection to the mother plant.
Method 3: Cutting and Rooting Runners in Water
This method is useful if the mother plant is far from your potting area. It’s a bit more risky but can work.
- Select a healthy runner with a developed daughter plant. Cut it from the mother plant, leaving a few inches of stem on either side of the daughter.
- Place the stem (with the root nubs) in a small glass of water. Only the base should be submerged; keep the leaves dry.
- Place in bright, indirect light. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh.
- Once roots are about an inch long (this may take 1-2 weeks), carefully plant the runner in a pot of soil.
- Keep the soil very moist for the first week as it transitions from water to soil, then care for it as normal.
Planting Your New Strawberry Plants
Whether you rooted in a pot or water, the final planting steps are the same. Proper planting ensures a great start.
- Choose a Sunny Spot: Strawberries need at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
- Prepare the Soil: They prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.8). Mix in plenty of compost.
- Plant Correctly: Dig a hole wide enough for the roots. Place the plant so the crown (where leaves meet roots) is level with the soil surface. Burying the crown leads to rot; planting to high dries out the roots.
- Spacing: Space plants about 12-18 inches apart in rows that are 2-3 feet apart. This allows for good air circulation, which prevents disease.
- Water & Mulch: Water deeply immediately after planting. Apply a layer of straw or pine needle mulch around plants to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep fruit clean.
Aftercare for Your Transplanted Strawberries
Consistent care in the first few weeks is key. Your new plants need a little extra attention.
- Watering: Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist like a wrung-out sponge for the first 2-3 weeks. Then, you can reduce to about 1 inch per week.
- Feeding: Avoid heavy fertilizer at planting. A month after transplanting, you can apply a balanced organic fertilizer to support growth.
- Protection: If you transplanted in fall, a thicker layer of winter mulch (like straw) applied after a few hard frosts will protect the crowns.
- Patience with Fruit: For fall-planted runners, it’s best to pinch off any blossoms that appear in the first spring. This directs energy to plant growth for a much heavier harvest the following year.
Common Problems and How to Fix Them
Even with care, you might encounter a hiccup or two. Here’s what to watch for.
Runner Wilting After Transplanting
This is usually transplant shock or underwatering. Ensure the soil is moist and provide temporary shade for a few days with a shade cloth or even an upturned pot during the hottest part of the day.
No Root Development
If roots aren’t forming after a month, the runner may have been to immature. The soil might also be to dry or too compacted. Next time, choose a runner with visible root nubs and ensure the soil contact is secure and moist.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellow leaves can indicate overwatering, poor drainage, or a nutrient deficiency. Check that your soil drains well and ease up on watering if it’s soggy. A light feed with a balanced fertilizer can help if the plant is established.
FAQ: Your Strawberry Runner Questions Answered
Can you transplant strawberry runners in spring?
Yes, you can transplant runners in early spring. However, they may not produce as well in their first summer because they’re focusing on root growth. Fall-transplanted runners are often more productive.
How many runners should I let a strawberry plant produce?
For the health of the mother plant, limit it to 3-5 strong runners per season. You can snip off any extras to direct energy back into the main plant and the runners you’ve chosen to propagate.
Should I cut the runners off my strawberry plants?
If you don’t want new plants, yes, cut them off. This channels the plant’s energy into producing larger fruits and stronger crowns for next year. It’s a good practice for June-bearing varieties especially.
How long does it take for a strawberry runner to bear fruit?
A well-established runner transplanted in fall will typically produce a decent harvest in the following spring or summer, about 8-9 months later. Spring-transplanted runners might give you a few berries later that same season, but the yield will be lighter.
Can I transplant runners directly into the ground without rooting them first?
You can, by using the “direct transplanting” method (Method 2) where you pin them to the soil while still attached to the mother. This is more reliable than cutting them and immediately planting the unrooted daughter, which has a higher failure rate due to moisture stress.
Transplanting strawberry runners is a rewarding garden skill. It saves money, increases your harvest, and connects you to the cycle of growth in your garden. With this simple step-by-step guide, you have all the information you need to successfully multiply your strawberry patch. Remember, the key steps are choosing healthy runners, ensuring good soil contact, keeping them moist during rooting, and planting at the right depth. Before you know it, you’ll be enjoying sweet, homegrown berries from plants you nurtured from the very start.