Growing tomatoes in South Florida can feel like a special challenge, but it’s absolutely possible to get a great harvest. This guide is all about how to grow tomatoes in south florida and the specific tricks you need for our unique hot climate.
Our long, warm seasons are a double-edged sword. You can grow almost year-round, but the intense heat, humidity, and heavy rains require smart choices. Picking the right varieties and timing your planting are the two most important steps for success.
How to Grow Tomatoes in South Florida
The core strategy for Florida tomato gardening is working with the weather, not against it. You’ll focus on fall and spring planting to avoid the worst summer heat and the peak of pest pressure.
Choosing the Right Tomato Varieties
This is not the place for traditional, long-season beefsteaks. You need tomatoes bred for heat-set and disease resistance. Look for these key terms on seed packets or plant tags: VFN, TSWV, and “heat-set.”
Here are some top performers for our area:
* Cherry & Grape Types: These are the most reliable. Try ‘Sweet 100’, ‘Sun Gold’, ‘Juliet’, and ‘Black Cherry’.
* Determinate Salad Tomatoes: These bush-type plants produce a lot of fruit at once. ‘Florida 91’, ‘Solar Fire’, ‘Heatmaster’, and ‘Celebrity’ are excellent.
* Small to Medium Slicers: For sandwich-sized tomatoes, consider ‘Better Boy’, ‘Champion’, or ‘Cherokee Purple’ (which suprisingly does well here with care).
Avoid most heirloom varieties unless you are prepared for extra pest management and lower yields during the hottest months.
The Best Time to Plant
Forget a spring planting. Our main planting seasons are:
1. Fall: Plant in late August through September. This gives plants time to establish and produce before cooler winter nights (which we do occasionally get).
2. Late Winter/Early Spring: Plant in January or early February. This allows for a harvest before the brutal heat and humidity of June arrives.
Planting in May or June is asking for trouble with insects, disease, and blossom drop.
Location and Sun Exposure
Tomatoes need a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sun. In South Florida, morning sun with some afternoon shade after 2 or 3 PM can actually be beneficial in summer. It prevents scalding and reduces heat stress.
Choose a site with excellent air circulation to help leaves dry quickly and prevent fungal diseases. Avoid low, soggy spots in your yard.
Preparing Your Soil or Containers
Florida soil is often sandy and lacks nutrients. Raised beds or large containers (at least 5 gallons per plant) are highly recommended for better control.
* For Garden Beds: Amend the soil generously with compost or well-rotted manure. Consider doing a soil test to check pH; tomatoes prefer slightly acidic soil (6.2-6.8).
* For Containers: Use a high-quality potting mix, not garden soil. A mix labeled for vegetables is perfect.
* All Plantings: Add a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil at planting time according to package directions.
Planting Your Tomatoes Correctly
When you bring your seedlings home, follow these steps:
1. Harden Off: If they were in a sheltered nursery, acclimate them to full sun over 4-5 days.
2. Plant Deep: Bury the stem up to the first set of true leaves. The buried stem will grow extra roots, creating a stronger plant.
3. Space Well: Place plants 2-3 feet apart for good airflow.
4. Water In: Give them a thorough watering right after planting to settle the soil.
5. Add Support: Install your cage or stake immediately to avoid damaging roots later. Use sturdy supports—our plants can get big!
Watering and Feeding for Heat
Consistent watering is non-negotiable. Fluctuations cause blossom end rot and split fruit.
* Water deeply at the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves. Aim for the soil to be moist like a wrung-out sponge, not soggy.
* Water early in the morning so foliage dries quickly.
* Containers will need watering daily, sometimes twice a day in peak heat.
Feed your plants regularly. A slow-release fertilizer at planting is a good start, but you’ll need to supplement with a liquid fertilizer (like a fish emulsion or tomato-specific formula) every 2-3 weeks during the growing season.
Managing Pests and Diseases
Our humidity is a paradise for garden problems. Prevention is your best tool.
* Common Pests: Watch for whiteflies, aphids, hornworms, and leafminers. Check the undersides of leaves often. Spray with a strong jet of water or use insecticidal soap for soft-bodied insects. Neem oil can be a effective organic option.
* Common Diseases: Early blight, late blight, and fungal leaf spots are prevalent. To manage them:
* Water at the soil level, never overhead.
* Mulch heavily with straw or pine needles to prevent soil from splashing onto leaves.
* Remove any yellowing or diseased leaves immediately.
* Consider a preventative fungicide like copper spray, especially in the rainy season.
Rotating where you plant tomatoes each year is also very helpful if you have the space.
Heat-Specific Tips for Maximum Harvest
When temperatures consistently stay above 90°F during the day and 75°F at night, tomatoes struggle to set fruit. Here’s how to help:
* Shade Cloth: Use a 30-40% shade cloth during the hottest part of the afternoon.
* Mulch Heavily: A 3-4 inch layer of mulch cools the soil and retains moisture.
* Patience with Pollination: Bees are less active in high heat. Gently shaking the plant’s main stem or flower clusters midday can help distribute pollen.
* Don’t Over-prune: Leaving more foliage provides natural shade for the developing fruit.
Harvest tomatoes when they show full color but are still firm. Pick regularly to encourage more production.
Common Problems and Quick Solutions
* Blossoms Falling Off: Caused by high heat or humidity. Ensure proper watering and consider shade cloth. The plant will often set fruit when temps moderate.
* Blossom End Rot (Black bottom): A calcium issue caused by irregular watering. Keep soil evenly moist and ensure your fertilizer contains calcium.
* Cracked Fruit: Usually from a heavy rain or heavy watering after a dry period. Consistent watering is key.
* Yellow Leaves: Can be overwatering, underwatering, or nutrient deficiency. Check soil moisture first, then consider a fertilizer boost.
FAQ: Growing Tomatoes in Hot Climates
Q: Can I grow tomatoes in South Florida in the summer?
A: It’s very difficult. Pest and disease pressure is highest, and heat often prevents fruit set. It’s better to use summer to grow heat-loving crops like okra or eggplant and focus tomatoes for the cooler months.
Q: What are the best tomato varieties for extreme heat?
A: Look for ‘Heatmaster’, ‘Solar Fire’, ‘Sun Gold’ cherry, and ‘Florida 91’. These are bred specifically for heat tolerance.
Q: How often should I water tomatoes in hot weather?
A: In garden beds, deep watering 2-3 times a week is usually needed. In containers, check daily; you’ll likely need to water every day. Always check the top inch of soil first.
Q: Why are my tomato plant’s leaves turning yellow?
A: It’s a common issue here. It can be from too much rain, poor drainage, a nitrogen deficiency, or just the older leaves shading out. Remove the worst yellow leaves and make sure your feeding schedule is consistent.
Q: Is it better to grow tomatoes in pots or in the ground here?
A: Both work, but containers offer better control over soil quality and drainage, which is a huge advantage in our rainy season. They also allow you to move plants if needed.
With the right timing, variety selection, and a focus on soil and water management, you can enjoy homegrown tomatoes even in the South Florida heat. The key is adapting your methods to our unique environment and being proactive about potential problems. Get your plants in the ground at the right time, and you’ll be picking ripe tomatoes while others are just thinking about their spring garden.