Knowing when to plant fruit trees in Texas is the single most important step for your success. Getting the timing right gives your tree a huge head start, allowing its roots to establish before facing our extreme summer heat or occasional winter cold snaps.
This guide breaks down the best planting times by region and tree type. We’ll cover everything from preparing the hole to aftercare, ensuring your new tree thrives for years to come.
When to Plant Fruit Trees in Texas
The ideal planting window for most of Texas is during the dormant season. This means late fall through early spring. Planting during dormancy allows the tree to focus its energy on growing roots instead of leaves or fruit.
Here’s a more detailed regional breakdown:
For North & Central Texas
The best time is from November through early March. Aim for late winter (February-March) if your area experiences hard freezes. This avoids newly planted trees sitting in frozen soil.
For South Texas & the Gulf Coast
You have a longer window from December through February. The milder winters here mean you can plant a bit later without risk. Avoid the peak summer heat at all costs.
For West Texas
Target February through early April. The arid climate and later frosts make early spring the safest bet. Ensure you have a solid irrigation plan ready.
Why Avoid Summer Planting?
Planting in summer forces the tree to support top growth while trying to establish roots in hot, often dry soil. This creates immense stress, leading to scorch, stunting, or death. It’s simply to much for a young tree to handle.
Exceptions: Container vs. Bare-Root Trees
Container-grown trees, sold in pots, are more forgiving. You can plant them almost any time except peak summer if you commit to diligent watering. However, dormant season is still strongly preferred.
Bare-root trees, which are sold with exposed roots, must be planted during dormancy—typically from January through March in Texas. Never let their roots dry out before planting.
Best Planting Times for Specific Texas Fruit Trees
Different trees have slightly different preferences based on their chill hour requirements and cold sensitivity.
- Peaches & Plums: These stone fruits do very well with a winter planting. January to February is perfect for bare-root specimens.
- Apples & Pears: Plant these pome fruits during their dormancy, from January through March. They appreciate a good root establishment before spring.
- Figs: Quite adaptable. For cold-prone areas, plant in early spring after the last frost. In South Texas, late fall or winter is fine.
- Citrus (Oranges, Lemons, Grapefruit): These are cold-sensitive. Plant in early spring (March-April) after all danger of freeze has passed. This gives them a full season to grow before next winter.
- Pecans: Best planted in late winter, from February through March. Their large taproot needs time to settle before summer.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Once you have the right timing, proper planting technique is crucial.
- Choose the Right Location: Most fruit trees need at least 6-8 hours of full sun daily. Ensure the site has good drainage—standing water is a major killer of young trees.
- Prepare the Hole: Dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball, but no deeper. The tree should sit so the root flare (where roots meet trunk) is slightly above ground level. This prevents settling and rot.
- Handle the Roots: For container trees, gently loosen circling roots. For bare-root trees, soak roots in water for 1-2 hours before planting.
- Place the Tree & Backfill: Set the tree in the hole. Backfill with the native soil you removed; avoid amending it with too much compost. You want roots to adapt to the native soil, not stay confined to a rich pocket.
- Water Deeply: Create a soil berm around the hole to form a watering basin. Water thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. A good deep watering is essential at this stage.
- Mulch: Apply 3-4 inches of organic mulch (like wood chips) around the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. This conserves moisture and regulates soil temperature.
Critical First-Year Care Tips
Your job isn’t done after planting. The first year is vital for establishment.
Watering Schedule
Consistent watering is non-negotiable. For the first few weeks, water every 2-3 days. Gradually extend to weekly deep watering, adjusting for rainfall. During a Texas summer, you may need to water twice a week. The goal is deep, infrequent watering to encourage deep roots.
Fertilizing
Hold off on fertilizing at planting time. You can apply a balanced fertilizer after you see new growth in the first spring, usually around 4-6 weeks after planting. To much to soon can burn tender new roots.
Pruning
For bare-root trees, it’s often recommended to prune the top back by about one-third at planting to balance the lost roots. For container trees, minimal pruning is needed at planting. Major structural pruning should wait until the next dormant season.
Protection from Elements
Use a tree guard to protect the tender bark from sunscald and rodents. In particularly hot areas, temporary shade cloth for the first summer can prevent stress. For young citrus, be prepared to cover them during unexpected late frosts.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Planting Too Deep: This is the #1 cause of failure. Always keep the root flare visible.
- Over-Amending the Soil: Creates a “pot effect” where roots won’t venture into harder native soil.
- Overwatering: Soggy soil suffocates roots. Check soil moisture by feeling a few inches down before watering.
- Ignoring Chill Hours: Choose a tree variety that matches your area’s average chill hours. A low-chill peach won’t fruit well in Dallas, and a high-chill apple will struggle in Houston.
- Forgetting the Mulch: Mulch is a Texas gardener’s best friend. It significantly reduces water needs and protects roots from temperature extremes.
FAQ: Planting Fruit Trees in Texas
Can I plant fruit trees in early fall in Texas?
In North Texas, early fall can work, but there’s a risk if an early hard freeze arrives before roots are established. Late fall (November) is safer. In South Texas, early fall is often acceptable.
What is the absolute best month to plant fruit trees?
For most of the state, February is often ideal. The soil is workable, the worst freezes are usually past, and the tree has 6-8 weeks of cool root-growing time before heat arrives.
Is it too late to plant in April?
For container trees, April is pushing it but possible if you are vigilant with water. For bare-root trees, April is generally to late; the tree is already breaking dormancy and will be severely stressed.
How do I protect a newly planted tree from a late frost?
Cover the tree with a frost cloth or blanket, ensuring it reaches the ground to trap soil heat. Avoid using plastic directly on the foliage. For very small trees, a large cardboard box can work in a pinch.
Can I move or transplant an established fruit tree?
The best time to transplant is during dormancy, in winter. It’s a stressful process for the tree, so be prepared for a recovery period and reduced fruiting for a season or two. It’s not always succesful with older trees.
By following these guidelines for when to plant fruit trees in Texas, you dramatically increase your chances of a healthy, productive orchard. Remember, patience at the start pays off for decades with delicious homegrown fruit. Start with the right timing, plant correctly, and provide consistent care—your future self will thank you with every harvest.