Vanda Coerulea

If you’re looking for a truly spectacular orchid to add to your collection, the vanda coerulea is a breathtaking choice. Often called the Blue Orchid, this plant is famous for its stunning sky-blue to lavender flowers, a rare color in the orchid world.

Native to Northeast India and parts of Southeast Asia, it grows high in the treetops. This means it has some specific needs, but don’t let that intimidate you. With the right knowledge, you can successfully grow and even bloom this exquisite plant. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know.

This isn’t your typical grocery-store orchid. The vanda coerulea is an epiphyte, meaning it lives on trees in the wild. Its roots dangle freely in the air, absorbing moisture and nutrients. What truly sets it apart is its flower color. The shades of blue and purple are a natural marvel, with intricate tessellated patterns on the petals.

It’s a protected species due to over-collection in the past, so always buy from reputable nurseries that use lab propagation. This ensures you get a healthy plant and helps protect wild populations.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Getting the environment right is the key to a happy vanda coerulea. Think about its natural home: high altitude, good air movement, and bright light.

Light Requirements

This orchid loves bright, filtered light. Direct midday sun can scorch its leaves, but too little light will prevent flowering.

Aim for an east or south-facing window (with a sheer curtain in the south).
The leaves should be a medium green color. Dark green means too little light; reddish tints mean too much.
If growing under lights, use full-spectrum LED grow lights for 12-14 hours a day.

Temperature & Humidity

As a highland plant, it prefers cooler nights and good temperature swings. This difference between day and night is crucial for triggering blooms.

Daytime: 70-85°F (21-29°C)
Nighttime: A drop to 55-65°F (13-18°C) is ideal.
Humidity: They thrive in 60-80% humidity. This can be a challenge indoors.

To increase humidity, use a humidifier or place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (keep the pot above the water line). Good air movement is essential to prevent fungal issues in high humidity.

Planting and Potting Media

Because of their aerial roots, vanda coerulea plants are often grown in bare-root baskets or slatted wooden pots. This allows maximum air flow to the roots. You can also use a very coarse, fast-draining media.

Excellent choices include large chunks of charcoal, coarse fir bark, or lava rock.
Avoid standard potting soil or fine moss—it will hold too much water and rot the roots.
Repot only when the media breaks down or the plant outgrows its basket, typically every 2-3 years. Be gentle with the thick, fragile roots.

Watering and Fertilizing Schedule

Watering is where many new growers face challenges. These orchids need a lot of water, but their roots must dry quickly.

Watering Routine

In warm, sunny weather, you may need to water daily. In cooler, cloudy periods, it might be every 2-3 days.

Soak the entire root system thoroughly for 10-15 minutes. Use lukewarm water.
Let the plant drain completely. No roots should sit in water.
The roots will turn silvery-green when dry and bright green when wet—a perfect visual cue.

Feeding Your Orchid

Use a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer (look for numbers like 20-20-20).

During the active growth period (spring and summer), fertilize weekly at ¼ to ½ the recommended strength.
The mantra is “feed weakly, weekly.”
In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once every two or three weeks.

It’s a good idea to flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent fertilizer salt buildup, which can damage those precious roots.

Encouraging Blooms

The sight of a blooming vanda coerulea is worth the effort. To get those famous blue flowers, you need to mimic its natural triggers.

Light: Ensure it’s getting enough bright, indirect light all year.
Temperature Drop: The cooler night temperatures in fall are essential. If you can, provide that 10-15 degree difference.
Mature Plant: A plant needs to be mature and large enough to support a bloom spike, which can take several years from a seedling.
Patience: They typically bloom in the fall. Once the flower spike appears, avoid moving the plant, as the spike can be brittle and twist toward the light.

The flowers are long-lasting, often staying in perfect condition for 4 to 6 weeks, sometimes even longer. After blooming, cut the spent flower spike near the base.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even experienced gardeners can run into issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems.

Yellowing Leaves

This can have a couple causes. Lower leaves naturally yellow and fall off as the plant grows. However, widespread yellowing often means too much direct sun or, occasionally, a nutrient deficiency. Check your light conditions first.

Root Rot

The most serious issue. Caused by overwatering, poor drainage, or broken-down media. Roots will become brown, mushy, and hollow.

Remove the plant from its pot and cut away all rotted roots with sterile tools.
Dust the cuts with cinnamon or sulfur powder.
Repot in fresh, dry media and withhold water for a few days to let the wounds callus.

No Flowers

If your plant is healthy but won’t bloom, the culprit is usually insufficient light or lack of a nighttime temperature drop. Review those sections and try to adjust your conditions. Sometimes a plant just needs another season to gain strength.

Pests

Watch for scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat infestations early with insecticidal soap or neem oil, applied thoroughly to all leaf surfaces. Good air circulation helps deter pests.

Propagation Methods

Propagating vanda coerulea is usually done by removing offshoots, called “keikis.” These are baby plants that sometimes form on the flower spike or at the base of the mother plant.

Wait until the keiki has several roots that are at least 2-3 inches long.
Using a sterile knife, cut the keiki away, including its roots.
Pot the keiki in a small basket with coarse media and care for it as a mature plant, keeping it in slightly higher humidity while it establishes.

Growing from seed is extremely difficult and requires sterile laboratory conditions, so it’s not recommended for home growers.

FAQ Section

How often does the blue vanda orchid bloom?
Mature plants typically bloom once a year, in the autumn. With exceptional care, some may produce a secondary spike or bloom twice.

Is the vanda coerulea fragrant?
The flowers generally have a very faint, if any, fragrance. They are prized primarily for their stunning blue color and form.

Can I grow a blue orchid in water culture?
Some vanda growers use full water culture, but it’s risky for beginners. Semi-water culture (with dry periods) is a safer alternative. The key is always ensuring the roots get a cycle of wet and dry.

Why are my vanda coerulea’s leaves wrinkled?
Wrinkled, pleated leaves are a classic sign of underwatering or root loss. The plant isn’t taking up enough moisture. Check the health of your root system and increase your soaking frequency if the roots are healthy.

What’s the difference between vanda coerulea and other blue orchids?
True vanda coerulea is a specific species. Other “blue orchids” are often phalaenopsis orchids that are dyed or have blue pigment injected. Their next bloom will be white. The vanda’s blue is natural and will rebloom the same color.

Growing the vanda coerulea is a rewarding journey for any orchid enthusiast. It asks for a bit more attention to detail than some other orchids, but the payoff—those incredible, sky-blue flowers—is truly unmatched. Start with a healthy plant, provide it with bright light, plenty of water with perfect drainage, and those cool nights. With consistent care, you’ll be able to enjoy one of nature’s most extraordinary floral displays right in your own home.