If you’re a gardener in zone 7, you might be wondering when should i plant garlic in zone 7. Timing is the most critical factor for a successful harvest, and getting it right sets the stage for everything that follows. This guide will walk you through the optimal schedule and simple steps for planting robust garlic.
Garlic is a rewarding crop that requires patience and planning. In zone 7, our winters are cold enough to vernalize the cloves but not so severe that they heave out of the ground. The key is to plant in the fall, allowing the garlic to establish roots before the freeze and then shoot up quickly in spring. Let’s get into the specifics.
When Should I Plant Garlic In Zone 7
The golden rule for zone 7 is to plant garlic in the fall. The exact window is typically from mid-October through mid-November. The goal is to get cloves into the ground about 4-6 weeks before the ground is expected to freeze solid.
This timing allows the garlic to develop a substantial root system. The clove will not send up a green shoot (or only a very small one) before winter dormancy. If you plant to early, you risk excessive top growth that can be damaged by winter cold. Planting to late means roots won’t establish properly, leading to weaker plants come spring.
Understanding Your Zone 7 Microclimate
Zone 7 covers a broad range, from the Mid-Atlantic to parts of the Pacific Northwest. Your specific location within the zone matters. Gardeners in cooler, higher-elevation parts of zone 7 should aim for the earlier side of the window, like mid-October. Those in warmer, coastal, or urban areas can often plant successfully into late November.
A good soil thermometer is helpful. Aim for a soil temperature at planting depth of around 50°F. You can also use nature’s cues: plant after the first light frost but before a hard freeze.
The Consequences of Missing the Window
What happens if you miss the fall window? Spring planting in zone 7 is possible, but results are often disappointing. Spring-planted garlic has a very short growing season and rarely forms large, well-segmented bulbs. They often produce what’s called “rounds” – single, undivided bulbs. For the best yield, fall planting is non-negotiable.
Choosing the Right Garlic for Zone 7
Not all garlic is the same. There are two main types, and your choice impacts planting and harvest.
- Softneck Garlic: This is the type commonly found in supermarkets. It stores exceptionally well, produces more cloves per bulb, and is generally better suited to milder climates. It’s a great, reliable choice for zone 7.
- Hardneck Garlic: This type produces a woody central stalk (the “scape”) and has fewer, larger cloves. It offers a wider range of complex flavors but has a shorter storage life. Hardnecks are extremely cold-hardy and also perform excellently in zone 7.
My recommendation is to try both! Source “seed garlic” from a reputable nursery or local farm. Do not plant garlic from the grocery store, as it is often treated to inhibit sprouting and may carry soil-borne diseases.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide
Follow these steps for a successful planting day.
1. Prepare Your Planting Bed
Garlic thrives in loose, fertile, and well-draining soil. Choose a spot that gets full sun.
- Work the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 inches.
- Mix in several inches of well-rotted compost or aged manure.
- Avoid fresh nitrogen-rich fertilizers, as they can promote late growth vulnerable to frost.
2. Separate and Select Cloves
On the day of planting, gently break apart your garlic bulbs into individual cloves. Keep the papery husk on each clove intact.
- Select only the largest, healthiest-looking cloves for planting. The size of the clove directly influences the size of the harvested bulb.
- Use the smaller cloves for cooking.
3. Planting Depth and Spacing
Proper placement is crucial for overwintering.
- Plant each clove pointed end up, root side down.
- Depth: Plant cloves 2-3 inches deep. In lighter, sandy soil, go for 3 inches. In heavier clay, 2 inches may suffice.
- Spacing: Space cloves 4-6 inches apart within the row.
- Row Spacing: Space rows 12-18 inches apart to allow for weeding and growth.
4. Mulch Heavily
This step is vital in zone 7. After planting, water the bed thoroughly if the soil is dry. Then, apply a 4-6 inch layer of loose mulch like straw, shredded leaves, or pine needles.
Mulch insulates the soil, prevents heaving from freeze-thaw cycles, suppresses weeds, and conserves moisture. In spring, you can pull back some mulch to let shoots through, but leave a layer to continue supressing weeds.
Caring for Your Garlic Through the Seasons
Garlic is low-maintenance but does need some attention.
Spring Care
As temperatures warm, green shoots will emerge. Keep the bed weeded, as garlic doesn’t compete well. When plants are actively growing (around April-May), you can side-dress with a balanced organic fertilizer or a top-dressing of compost.
Watering Needs
Garlic needs consistent moisture, especially during bulb formation in mid to late spring. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall. Reduce watering in the last few weeks before harvest to allow the bulbs to cure in the ground.
Harvesting Scapes (Hardnecks Only)
In late spring, hardneck garlic will send up a curly flower stalk called a scape. You should cut this off when it makes one or two loops. This directs the plant’s energy into bulbing. The scapes are a delicious bonus—sauté them or make pesto!
Knowing When to Harvest
Harvest time in zone 7 is typically late June to early July. Watch for these signs:
- The bottom 3-4 leaves turn yellow or brown, while the top 5-6 leaves are still green.
- The plant begins to look a bit “tired” and starts to fall over.
Don’t wait for all the leaves to brown. Gently dig up a test bulb. If the cloves are well-defined and the bulb is nicely wrapped, it’s time. Use a garden fork to gently lift the bulbs, being careful not to bruise them.
Curing and Storing Your Harvest
Proper curing is essential for storage.
- Brush off excess soil gently; do not wash the bulbs.
- Bundle 6-10 plants together and hang them, or lay them in a single layer on a rack.
- Cure in a cool, dark, dry, and well-ventilated place (like a garage or shed) for 3-4 weeks.
- Once the necks are completely tight and dry and the outer skin is papery, trim roots and cut stalks (for hardnecks) or braid (for softnecks).
- Store in a cool, dark place. Softnecks can store for up to a year, while hardnecks are best used within 6 months.
Common Problems and Solutions in Zone 7
Garlic is relatively pest-resistant but watch for a few issues.
- White Rot: A fungal disease causing yellow leaves and white fungus on the bulb. Prevent by rotating your garlic bed on a 4-year cycle and planting disease-free seed.
- Onion Thrips: Tiny insects that cause silvery streaks on leaves. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap can help manage them.
- Poor Drainage: This is the most common cause of failure. Soggy soil rots the cloves. If you have heavy clay, consider planting in a raised bed.
FAQ: Garlic Planting in Zone 7
Can I plant garlic from the store in zone 7?
It’s not recommended. Grocery store garlic is often from unknown varieties unsuited for your climate and may be treated to prevent sprouting.
What is the latest I can plant garlic in zone 7?
You can push into early December if the ground is still workable, but your yeilds will likely be smaller. Mid-November is a safer bet.
Should I water garlic after planting in fall?
Yes, give it a good watering to settle the soil around the cloves, unless rainfall is imminent. Then, let winter precipitation take over.
Do I need to fertilize garlic at planting time?
Incorporate compost into the bed before planting. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers at planting, as they can encourage tender growth that winter cold will damage.
My garlic sprouted green tops in late fall, is that okay?
A little bit of growth is fine and actually shows the cloves are active. If you get several inches of growth, a heavy mulch will help protect the tops from frost burn.
By following this schedule and these methods, you’ll give your garlic the best possible start. The wait from fall planting to summer harvest is long, but the reward of homegrown, flavorful garlic is well worth it. Remember, the single most important step is getting those cloves in the ground at the right time in autumn.