Philodendron Bloody Mary

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a dramatic statement with minimal fuss, look no further. The philodendron bloody mary is a stunning cultivar prized for its deep, wine-red foliage that seems to glow from within. This plant is more than just a pretty face; it’s a resilient and fast-growing addition to any indoor jungle, perfect for both beginners and seasoned plant enthusiasts.

Its leaves emerge a bright, coppery red and mature to a rich, burgundy-tinged green, especially in lower light. The stems maintain a vibrant red color, creating a beatiful contrast. This guide will give you all the practical tips you need to keep your Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ thriving and showing off its best colors.

This plant is a self-heading hybrid philodendron, meaning it grows in a more compact, upright rosette form rather than as a long vine. It’s a relatively new and sought-after variety, and its care is very similar to other common philodendrons, which is great news for you. The key to its stunning apperance lies in providing the right balance of light and care to encourage those deep red hues.

Ideal Light Conditions for Vibrant Color

Light is the most important factor for maintaining the red foliage of your Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’.

Bright, Indirect Light is Best: A spot near an east or west-facing window is ideal. Here, it gets plenty of light without the harsh, direct rays of the midday sun.
Avoid Direct Sun: Too much direct sunlight will scorch the leaves, causing bleached or brown spots. If you only have a south-facing window, use a sheer curtain to filter the light.
Lower Light Tolerance: The plant will survive in lower light, but its growth will slow. More importantly, the new leaves will come in a much greener color, losing the signature red tones. If you notice your plant getting leggy (long stems with few leaves), it’s asking for more light.

Watering Your Plant Correctly

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your philodendron. These plants like to partially dry out between drinks.

The Finger Test: Always check the soil before watering. Stick your finger about 2 inches into the potting mix. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. If it’s still damp, wait a few more days.
Water Thoroughly: When you do water, do so completely until water runs freely out of the drainage holes in the pot. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Empty the Saucer: Never let the plant sit in standing water. This leads to root rot, which can quickly kill the plant.
Seasonal Changes: Water less frequently in the winter when the plant’s growth slows down and the soil takes longer to dry.

Choosing Soil and Potting Mix

A well-draining, airy potting mix is non-negotiable for healthy roots. You can use a standard, high-quality houseplant potting mix as a base.

To improve drainage, consider amending it with:

Perlite
Orchid bark
Coco coir

A simple recipe is two parts potting mix to one part perlite and one part orchid bark. This creates a chunky mix that allows water to flow through while retaining just enough moisture for the roots.

Humidity and Temperature Preferences

As a tropical plant, your Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ appreciates higher humidity, but it’s quite adaptable to typical home conditions.

Ideal Humidity: 60% or higher is great, but it will do fine in 40-50%.
Boosting Humidity: If your air is very dry (especially in winter), group plants together, use a pebble tray filled with water under the pot, or run a small humidifier nearby.
Temperature: Keep it in a warm spot between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents, as temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can damage the plant.

Fertilizing for Healthy Growth

Feed your plant during its active growing season (spring and summer) to support its fast growth.

Type: Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 formula) diluted to half the recommended strength.
Frequency: Fertilize once a month from spring through summer.
Important: Do not fertilize in the fall and winter. The plant is not actively growing and the unused salts can build up and burn the roots. Always water the soil lightly before applying fertilizer to prevent root shock.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is simple and helps maintain a bushy, attractive shape.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
You can trim any yellowing or damaged leaves at the base of their stem.
To encourage bushier growth, you can cut back leggy stems just above a leaf node (the small bump on the stem where a leaf attaches). New growth will often emerge from this point.
Don’t be afraid to remove a leaf or two if the plant is getting to large for its space; it’s very resilient.

How to Propagate New Plants

Sharing your Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ is easy through stem cuttings. Here’s how:

Identify a healthy stem with at least 2-3 leaves and a few aerial roots (the little nubs on the stem) if possible.
Cut just below a node using a clean tool.
Place the cutting in a glass of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaves are not.
Put it in a bright, warm spot and change the water every few days.
In 2-4 weeks, you should see new roots developing that are an inch or two long.
Once the roots are established, pot the cutting in a small container with fresh, well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil slightly moist for the first few weeks as it adjusts to soil life.

Common Pests and Problems

This philodendron is relatively pest-resistant, but it’s good to keep an eye out.

Spider Mites: Look for fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil if needed.
Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses in leaf joints. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Yellow Leaves: Usually a sign of overwatering. Check your watering schedule and soil moisture.
Brown Leaf Tips: Can indicate low humidity, underwatering, or a buildup of fertilizer salts. Flush the soil with water every few months to remove excess salts.

Choosing the Right Pot

Always choose a pot with drainage holes. This is critical. As for material, plastic pots retain moisture longer, while terracotta pots are porous and allow the soil to dry out more quickly, which can be helpful if you tend to overwater. Repot your plant every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Only go up one pot size (about 2 inches wider in diameter) at a time.

FAQ Section

Is the Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ rare?
It was once quite rare but is becoming more widley available at specialty nurseries and online plant shops.

Is the Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ toxic?
Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to pets and humans if ingested. Keep it out of reach of curious cats, dogs, and children.

Why are the leaves on my Bloody Mary plant green?
The most likely cause is insufficient light. Move it to a brighter location with indirect light to encourage the red pigmentation in new growth. Also, remember that older leaves naturally darken to a deeper green over time.

How fast does the Bloody Mary philodendron grow?
With good light, warmth, and proper care, it is a moderately fast grower, especially during the spring and summer months. You can expect several new leaves each season.

Can I grow Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ outdoors?
Only in warm, humid climates (USDA zones 9-11) and in a shaded, sheltered spot. For most people, it is strictly an indoor houseplant.

With its stunning foliage and easy-going nature, the Philodendron ‘Bloody Mary’ is a truely rewarding plant to care for. By following these simple guidelines on light, water, and soil, you’ll be able to enjoy its deep, red beauty for many years to come. Remember, the key is to mimic it’s natural tropical habitat as closly as possible without overcomplicating things. Your efforts will be rewarded with a vibrant, healthy plant that stands out in any collection.