How To Transplant A Staghorn Fern

If your staghorn fern is outgrowing its mount or pot, knowing how to transplant a staghorn fern is an essential skill. This guide will walk you through the simple process step-by-step, ensuring your unique plant thrives in its new home.

These spectacular plants, with their antler-like fronds, aren’t potted like ordinary houseplants. They are epiphytes, meaning they naturally grow on trees. Transplanting them is more about remounting or dividing, and it’s easier than you might think. With the right timing and materials, you can give your fern a fresh start.

This main process covers moving an established plant to a new mount or a larger basket. It’s the most common type of transplant for these plants.

When to Transplant Your Staghorn

Timing is key for a stress-free move. The best time is in late winter or early spring, just before the plant’s active growing season begins. This gives the fern a full season to establish itself.

Look for these signs your fern is ready:

The shield fronds have completely covered the old mount or pot.
The root ball is so dense it’s pushing the plant off its mount.
The plant has become top-heavy and unstable.
You see many “pups” or offshoots around the base, indicating it’s time to divide.

Gathering Your Supplies

Before you start, collect everything you need. Having it all on hand makes the job smoother. You won’t need all of this for every method, but here’s a comprehensive list.

New Mount: A hardwood board (cedar, oak), a wire basket, or a specialized staghorn fern plaque.
Sphagnum Moss: High-quality, long-fiber moss. Soak it in water for 20 minutes before use.
Fishing Line or Nylon Pantyhose: To secure the plant. Avoid copper wire, as it can harm the fern.
Sharp, Sterilized Knife or Pruners: For dividing, if needed.
Bucket of Water: For soaking the root ball and moss.
Optional: A hook for hanging the mounted fern.

Choosing Between a Mount or a Basket

Wooden mounts show off the plant’s natural form beautifully and are great for hanging on a wall. Wire baskets lined with moss are excellent for larger specimens and provide more space for the roots to grow. Both methods work wonderfully; it often comes down to personal preference and the size of your plant.

Step-by-Step Transplanting Process

Follow these steps carefully for the best results. Work in a shaded, comfortable area.

Prepare the New Mount: If using a board, pre-drill a hole at the top for the hanging hook. Soak your sphagnum moss until it’s fully hydrated, then squeeze out excess water so it’s damp, not dripping.
Remove the Fern: Gently take the fern down from its current location. If it’s on a board, carefully cut the old fishing line. If it’s in a basket, tip it out. Be gentle with the basal fronds (the flat, round ones).
Soak and Inspect: Submerge the root ball in your bucket of water for 10-15 minutes. This makes the roots more flexible. While it soaks, inspect for dead or rotten fronds and trim them away with your clean pruners.
Create a Moss Bed: Place a thick layer of damp sphagnum moss on your new mount or in the bottom of your basket. Shape it into a slight mound. The moss acts as the medium that holds moisture and nutrients.
Position the Fern: Set the fern’s root ball directly onto the moss mound. The back of the plant (where the flat shield fronds are) should be against the mount. The fertile, antler fronds should face outward. For baskets, center the plant.
Add More Moss: Cover the roots and the back of the shield fronds with another layer of damp moss. You want to create a neat, rounded pad.
Secure the Plant: This is the trickiest part. Use fishing line or strips of pantyhose to tie the fern and moss securely to the mount. Criss-cross the line in several directions, like tying a package. It needs to be snug but not so tight it cuts into the plant. The line will be hidden as the fern grows.
Water and Hang: Give the entire moss ball a good soak. Let it drain. Then, hang your newly mounted fern in a spot with bright, indirect light (no hot afternoon sun).

Aftercare Following the Transplant

Your fern will need a little extra attention for the first few weeks. Keep it in a sheltered spot with consistent humidity. Water it when the moss feels dry to the touch—this might be once a week in warm weather, less in cooler months.

Hold off on fertilizing for about 4-6 weeks to let the roots settle. After that, you can resume a light feeding schedule with a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

How to Divide and Transplant a Staghorn Fern

If your plant has produced smaller offshoots (called pups), you can create new plants. Division is best done during the same spring transplant window.

Remove the entire plant from its mount as described above and soak the root ball.
Identify the pups. They will have their own small set of shield and frond fronds.
Using your sterilized knife, carefully cut the pup away from the main plant, ensuring it has a portion of roots and at least one growth point attached.
Mount the pup individually following the standard steps above. The parent plant can be remounted as well.

Small divisions may take a year or two to look impressive, but they grow steadily with proper care. Its a rewarding way to expand your collection.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with care, sometimes issues arise. Here’s how to handle them.

Fronds Wilting After Transplant: This is normal shock. Maintain high humidity and consistent moisture (not sogginess) and avoid direct sun. It should recover in 1-2 weeks.
Shield Fronds Turning Brown: A few old ones browning is natural. If many turn brown quickly, it’s often a sign of underwatering or too much direct sunlight.
Fern Feels Loose on Mount: It may not be secured tightly enough. You can add a few more loops of fishing line to stabilize it without harming the plant.
No New Growth: Be patient. It can take a full growing season for the fern to fully acclimate. Ensure it’s getting enough light and occasional fertilizer.

FAQ Section

What is the best way to water a newly transplanted staghorn?
Water by soaking the entire moss ball until it’s saturated, then let it drain completely. The frequency depends on your climate, but always let the moss approach dryness before soaking again.

Can I use soil to transplant my staghorn fern?
No, you should not use potting soil. It holds too much moisture and can cause the roots to rot. Staghorn ferns need a very airy medium like sphagnum moss or a special orchid mix.

How often do I need to remount my staghorn?
A healthy fern may need remounting every 3-5 years as it outgrows its space. Keep an eye on the coverage of the shield fronds over the mount.

My fern has brown spots under the leaves. Is this bad?
Those are likely spores, which is how the plant reproduces. It’s a sign of a healthy, mature fern and is completely normal. Don’t remove these fronds.

Is it okay to transplant a staghorn in summer?
It’s not ideal. The heat can stress the plant further. If you must, do it on a cool, cloudy day and be extra vigilant about water and shade during recovery.

Transplanting a staghorn fern is a straightforward project that breathes new life into a magnificent plant. By providing a fresh mount and some careful aftercare, you ensure it continues to grow and become a stunning focal point in your home or garden for years to come. Remember, the key is to mimic its natural environment as closely as possible—good air flow, consistent moisture, and bright, filtered light.