Learning how to prune cherry tomatoes is one of the best skills you can have for a healthier, more productive garden. It might seem counterintuitive to cut off parts of your plant, but a little strategic trimming makes a huge difference.
Pruning helps your plants focus their energy on ripening fruit instead of growing extra leaves. It improves air circulation, which prevents disease. And it makes harvesting those sweet, little tomatoes so much easier. This simple guide will walk you through the entire process.
How to Prune Cherry Tomatoes
Before you make your first cut, it’s important to know what type of cherry tomato you’re growing. This determines your pruning strategy.
Determinate vs. Indeterminate: Know Your Plant
Determinate varieties (bush types) grow to a set size, flower, and produce all their fruit in a short period. They require minimal pruning. Removing leaves or stems can actually reduce your harvest.
Indeterminate varieties (vining types) keep growing and producing fruit until frost kills them. These are the plants that benefit most from pruning. They can become wild, dense jungles without it. Most common cherry tomatoes, like Sweet 100, Sun Gold, and Super Sweet 100, are indeterminate.
Check your seed packet or plant tag if you’re unsure. When in doubt, a lighter prune is always safer.
When to Start Pruning
Begin pruning when your plant is well-established, usually about 12-18 inches tall and has developed its first set of flowers. Don’t start too early, as the young plant needs its leaves to gather energy for growth. The best time to prune is on a dry, sunny morning. This allows the cuts to heal quickly and reduces the risk of disease entering the fresh wounds.
Tools You’ll Need
- Sharp, clean pruning shears or scissors. Dull tools crush stems.
- Rubbing alcohol or a disinfectant wipe to clean your tools between plants.
- A container for the clippings (don’t leave them on the soil).
The Step-by-Step Pruning Process
Follow these steps every 1-2 weeks during the growing season to keep your plants in top shape.
Step 1: Find and Remove the Suckers
The main task in pruning is removing “suckers.” These are the small shoots that grow in the joint between the main stem and a branch (the axil). If left alone, each sucker becomes a new main stem, leading to a bushy plant.
- Locate a sucker in the leaf axil. It will be smaller and more tender than the main stem.
- For small suckers (under 3 inches), simply pinch them off with your fingers. Pinch them sideways to avoid damaging the main stem.
- For larger suckers, use your clean shears to make a clean cut close to the main stem.
Many gardeners use the “Missouri pruning” method for larger suckers: pinch off just the tip, leaving the first two leaves. This provides some extra foliage for photosynthesis while still controlling growth.
Step 2: Prune the Bottom Leaves
As the plant grows taller, the oldest leaves at the bottom often touch the soil or become shaded. These are prime targets for fungal diseases like early blight.
- Once the plant is about 3 feet tall, start removing leaves from the bottom 6-12 inches of the stem.
- Use shears to cut the leaf stem close to the main trunk. Don’t tear it.
- This creates a clean “leg” that improves airflow and prevents soil-borne spores from splashing onto leaves.
Step 3: Thin Out Dense Foliage
Look for areas in the middle of the plant that are very thick with leaves. Some selective thinning allows light and air to reach the developing fruit clusters.
Remove a few leaves that are:
- Yellowing or showing signs of disease.
- Blocking sunlight from a ripe or ripening fruit truss.
- Growing inward toward the center of the plant.
Aim to remove no more than 1/3 of the total foliage at any one time. The plant needs its leaves to produce sugars for the tomatoes.
Step 4: Top the Plant (Late Season)
About 4-6 weeks before your first expected fall frost, you can “top” the plant. This means cutting off the very top growing tip of the main stem.
This signals the plant to stop putting energy into new growth and instead focus on ripening the existing green fruit before the season ends. It’s a great way to get more ripe tomatoes and less waste.
Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-pruning: This is the biggest mistake. Too few leaves leads to sunscald on fruit and a weak plant. Never remove all the leaves from a stem holding fruit.
- Using dirty tools: Always disinfect shears between plants to avoid spreading disease. It’s a simple step that saves alot of trouble.
- Pruning determinate plants: As mentioned, avoid major pruning on bush varieties. You’ll cut off your fruit-bearing branches.
- Pruning when wet: Never prune after rain or in the evening when dew is setting. Wet conditions help disease enter fresh cuts.
What to Do With All The Clippings?
Don’t leave them in the garden! Diseased foliage can harbor problems. Add healthy clippings to your compost pile, but ensure it gets hot enough to kill pathogens. If you suspect any disease, throw the clippings in the trash. You can also add small, healthy suckers to a glass of water where they will often root, giving you free new plants!
Caring for Your Plants After Pruning
After a pruning session, your plants don’t need special care, but it’s a good time to check on their overall health. Ensure they are well-watered at the base (not the leaves). Consider a light feeding with a balanced organic fertilizer to support new growth and fruit development. Keep an eye on the cuts; they should dry and callus over within a day or two.
Pruning becomes intuitive with a little practice. The key is to be observant and gentle. Regular, light pruning is far better than one major, drastic cutback. Your reward will be a tidy, manageable plant absolutely loaded with delicious cherry tomatoes that are easy to see and pick.
FAQ: Your Pruning Questions Answered
Do all cherry tomato plants need pruning?
No. Determinate (bush) cherry tomato varieties generally do not need pruning, except for removing diseased leaves. Indeterminate (vining) varieties benefit greatly from regular pruning.
Can I prune my tomato plant too much?
Absolutely. Over-pruning stresses the plant, exposes fruit to sunscald, and reduces its ability to produce energy. A good rule is to never remove more than one-third of the plant’s foliage at one time.
What’s the difference between pinching and pruning?
Pinching usually refers to removing small, tender growth like young suckers with your fingers. Pruning typically involves using shears to cut larger stems or leaves. Both are part of the same maintenance process.
Is it to late to start pruning if my plant is already huge?
It’s never too late, but proceed with caution. Start by removing the bottom leaves and a few of the largest, woodiest suckers. Don’t try to fix everything in one day. Space major corrections out over a couple of weeks to avoid shocking the plant.
How often should I prune cherry tomatoes?
For indeterminate plants, check for suckers and do light pruning every 7 to 14 days during the peak growing season. This keeps it manageable and prevents you from having to remove large, thick stems later.
Should I prune the flowers?
Generally, no. The flowers become your fruit. The only exception might be if you are topping the plant late in the season and you remove the tip which has flowers, to direct energy to existing fruit.