Creating a beautiful, sustainable lawn in Arizona means choosing the right plants for our unique climate. If you’re looking for resilient and water-wise options, understanding the types of grass in Arizona – native desert landscape varieties is the perfect place to start.
These grasses are adapted to thrive with minimal water and maximum sun. They can handle our temperature swings and poor soils where other grasses would simply fail. By selecting native varieties, you build a landscape that’s both beautiful and ecologically responsible, providing habitat for local wildlife and saving you time and money on maintenance.
Types of Grass in Arizona – Native Desert Landscape Varieties
Native grasses are the backbone of a true desert landscape. They offer movement, texture, and a soft, natural aesthetic. Unlike thirsty turfgrasses, these varieties have deep root systems that seek out moisture and help prevent soil erosion. Let’s look at the most common and reliable native grasses for your Arizona yard.
Warm-Season Native Grasses
These grasses grow actively during the hot summer months and go dormant, turning a golden brown, in the winter. They are perfectly synced with Arizona’s monsoon season.
- Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): Often called “Mosquito Grass” for its unique seed heads that resemble tiny flags. It’s a low-growing, clump-forming grass that’s incredibly drought-tolerant. Blue Grama requires very little mowing and creates a soft, meadow-like feel.
- Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides): A true prairie grass that forms a dense, low-growing turf. Modern cultivars like ‘Cody’ or ‘Legacy’ are especially well-suited for lawns. It’s one of the most heat and drought-tolerant options available and needs only 1-2 inches of water every two to three weeks in the summer.
- Galleta Grass (Hilaria jamesii): This is a tough, wiry grass native to the high deserts and grasslands. It’s excellent for erosion control on slopes and in areas where you want a very natural, unmanicured look. It’s not typically used for a formal lawn but is a fantastic habitat plant.
Cool-Season Native Grasses
These grasses grow primarily in the spring and fall, staying greener during the mild winters. They often benefit from a little extra water in the summer.
- Indian Ricegrass (Achnatherum hymenoides): A beautiful, airy grass with delicate seed heads that catch the light. It’s a clumping grass that provides excellent forage for birds. Its seeds were an important food source for Native American tribes. It looks stunning in mass plantings.
- Sideoats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula): The state grass of Texas and a native to Arizona, it’s known for its oat-like seeds that hang from one side of the stem. It grows in clumps and adds wonderful vertical interest. It’s very adaptable and relatively low-water once established.
Ornamental and Accent Grasses
These are used for visual impact rather than as lawn substitutes. They create focal points and add dynamic movement to the landscape.
- Deer Grass (Muhlenbergia rigens): A large, fountain-shaped clump grass that is a landscape staple. It’s evergreen, requires little water, and its tall flower plumes appear in the fall. It’s perfect for anchoring a garden bed.
- Big Galleta (Hilaria rigida): Similar to Galleta but larger, this grass forms sprawling, woody clumps. It’s extremely rugged and is often used in revegetation projects. It provides excellent year-round cover for wildlife.
How to Choose the Right Grass for Your Yard
Picking the perfect grass depends on how you plan to use your space. Ask yourself these key questions.
- Traffic: Will it be a play area for kids and pets, or is it mostly for looks? Buffalograss handles light to moderate traffic fairly well, while Blue Grama is better for visual areas.
- Water Goals: What is your water conservation target? Buffalograss and Blue Grama are amoung the most drought-tolerant. All natives will use significantly less water than traditional turf like Bermudagrass.
- Aesthetic: Do you want a uniform lawn, or a natural meadow? Buffalograss can be mowed low. For a meadow, a mix of Blue Grama and Sideoats Grama is lovely.
- Sun Exposure: Most native grasses require full sun (6+ hours). If you have significant shade, your options will be very limited, and a native groundcover might be a better choice.
Planting and Establishing Your Native Grass
Getting your grass started right is crucial for its long-term success. Patience is key, as some natives establish slower than conventional turf.
Site Preparation
Good preparation prevents problems for years to come.
- Clear the Area: Remove all existing weeds, grass, and debris. This is the most important step to reduce competition.
- Soil Amendment: Most native grasses prefer well-drained soil and do not need rich compost. If you have heavy clay, mixing in some coarse sand or small decomposed granite can improve drainage. Avoid over-amending.
- Grade the Area: Ensure the ground slopes gently away from your home’s foundation for proper runoff.
Seeding vs. Sod/Plugs
- Seeding: More affordable but slower. Best done in the late spring or early summer for warm-season grasses. Keep the seedbed consistently moist until germination. This method works well for larger areas.
- Sod or Plugs: Provides instant coverage and is less susceptible to weed invasion initially. Buffalograss is often available as sod or plugs. This is a great choice for smaller lawns or areas where erosion is a concern during establishment.
Watering Schedule for New Lawns
The first season is critical. Your goal is to encourage deep roots.
- Weeks 1-2: Water daily to keep the top inch of soil moist.
- Weeks 3-6: Begin to water less frequently but more deeply. Aim for every other day, ensuring water penetrates 4-6 inches.
- After 6 Weeks: Start transitioning to a mature watering schedule. Deep water only when the grass shows signs of stress (like curling blades) or the soil is dry several inches down.
Maintaining Your Native Grass Landscape
Once established, maintenance is refreshingly simple compared to a traditional lawn.
Watering
Deep and infrequent is the rule. Water only when the grass needs it, not on a fixed schedule. In the summer, this might be every 10-21 days, depending on the grass type and your soil. In winter, you may not need to water at all if we get decent rainfall.
Mowing
If you’re maintaining a lawn look with Buffalograss, mow to a height of 2-3 inches. For other bunch grasses like Blue Grama, you can mow once a year in late winter to remove old growth, or simply leave them natural. Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time.
Fertilizing
Native grasses need little to no fertilizer. In fact, to much nitrogen can cause weak, excessive growth and increase water needs. If your soil is very poor, a light application of a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer in the spring is sufficient.
Weed Control
The best defense is a thick, healthy lawn. Hand-pull weeds as they appear, especially in the first year. Avoid broad-leaf herbicides unless absolutely necessary, as they can damage your desirable native grasses. Pre-emergent herbicides can be used carefully in the spring and fall to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Even native grasses can face a few issues. Here’s how to adress them.
- Weed Invasion: Usually a sign of overwatering or poor initial clearing. Adjust your watering to be deeper and less frequent, and hand-pull weeds before they go to seed.
- Thinning Patches: Could be from dog urine, heavy wear, or a pest. Reseed small areas in the growing season. For pests like grubs, use beneficial nematodes as a natural treatment.
- Dormancy Color: Remember, warm-season grasses turn tan in the winter. This is normal and healthy. They will green up again in the spring. You can overseed with a cool-season annual ryegrass if you must have winter green, but it’s not recommended as it competes with the native grass.
FAQ
What is the most drought tolerant grass for Arizona?
Buffalograss and Blue Grama are top contenders for the most drought-tolerant native lawn grasses. Once established, they can survive on minimal rainfall.
Can I have a green lawn in Arizona with native grass?
Yes, but it will be seasonally green. Warm-season natives are green in the late spring, summer, and early fall. They go dormant and turn golden in the winter. This cycle is natural and healthy for the plant.
How do I replace my existing lawn with native grass?
The most effective method is to use a glyphosate herbicide to kill the old lawn, wait 2 weeks, then till or rake the area to prepare the seedbed. Alternatively, you can solarize the area with clear plastic over the summer to kill the grass and weeds organically, though this takes longer.
Where can I buy native grass seed or sod in Arizona?
Check with local nurseries that specialize in native plants. Some larger garden centers also carry Buffalograss sod. For seed, look for reputable online suppliers or local seed companies that focus on Southwestern varieties.
Do native grasses attract wildlife?
Absolutely. They provide seeds for birds, shelter for insects and small animals, and are host plants for various butterfly and moth larvae. A native grass landscape supports local biodiversity.
Choosing native grasses is a smart, sustainable choice for any Arizona homeowner. By working with our environment instead of against it, you create a resilient landscape that saves resources, supports local ecosystems, and offers a unique and beautiful sense of place. With the right selection and a bit of patience during establishment, you’ll enjoy a vibrant, low-maintenance yard for years to come.