If you want a houseplant with truly spectacular flowers, look no further than the vanda orchid. Known for their exotic and vibrant blooms, these orchids are a stunning centerpiece for any plant collection.
Unlike many common orchids, Vandas are often grown bare-root, with their thick, dangling roots exposed to the air. They hail from warm, tropical parts of Asia and demand specific care, but the reward—large, long-lasting flowers in brilliant blues, purples, oranges, and reds—is absolutely worth the effort. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your Vanda thriving and flowering.
Vanda Orchid – Exotic and Vibrant Blooms
What makes the Vanda orchid so special? It’s all in the presentation. Their flowers, which can measure several inches across, appear on upright spikes and often feature intricate patterns and a glossy texture. A single spike can produce 8 to 10 flowers, and with multiple spikes, the plant becomes a cascade of color. Their natural growing habit, with roots freely hanging, gives them a wild, elegant look that’s hard to match.
Choosing the Right Vanda for You
Not all Vandas are the same. They are generally categorized by their leaf shape, which tells you alot about their light needs.
- Strap-leaf Vandas: These are the most common for home growers. They have long, flat, leathery leaves and are slightly more tolerant of varying conditions. They are your best bet if your new to Vandas.
- Terete Vandas: These have pencil-like, cylindrical leaves. They require very high light and are often seen in tropical landscaping.
- Semi-terete Vandas: A hybrid between the two, with leaves that are a mix of flat and cylindrical.
For beginners, a strap-leaf Vanda is the most forgiving choice. You can often find them at specialty orchid nurseries or online.
The Non-Negotiables: Light and Temperature
Vandas are sun lovers. Without enough light, they simply will not flower.
- Light: They need bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is ideal. A south-facing window with some sheer curtain filtration is also good. The leaves should be a medium green color; dark green means too little light, and reddish or yellowing leaves signal too much.
- Temperature: Think warm. They prefer days between 70-85°F (21-29°C) and nights no cooler than 60°F (15°C). They thrive in consistent warmth and high humidity.
If you live in a warm climate, they can summer outdoors in dappled shade. Just acclimate them slowly to prevent sunburn.
Understanding Humidity and Air Movement
In their native habitat, Vandas enjoy humidity levels of 60-80%. This is the biggest challenge for indoor growers.
- Use a humidifier in the room where you keep your orchid.
- Place the pot on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
- Mist the roots heavily in the morning, so they dry by evening.
Crucially, high humidity must be paired with excellent air movement. A gentle fan in the room prevents stagnant air and reduces the risk of fungal and bacterial rots, which Vandas can be prone to.
Watering and Feeding: A Daily Ritual
Because they are often grown without potting mix, Vandas need frequent watering. Their thick, silvery roots are designed to soak up moisture quickly and then dry.
- In warm, sunny weather, you may need to water once a day.
- In cooler, cloudy weather, every 2-3 days might be sufficient.
- The best method is to immerse the entire root ball in a bucket of lukewarm water for 10-15 minutes.
- Allow the roots to drain completely before hanging the plant back up.
The roots should be plump and green after watering, turning silvery-white as they dry. Never let the roots stay soggy and brown.
Fertilize weekly with a balanced orchid fertilizer (like 20-20-20), but at 1/4 strength. A good rule is “weekly, weakly.” Flush the roots with plain water once a month to prevent fertilizer salt buildup, which can damage the delicate root tips.
Potting, Mounting, and Root Care
Vandas are epiphytes. In the wild, they grow on tree branches. You can mimic this at home.
- Basket Growing: A wooden or plastic slatted basket is the most popular method. The roots grow through the slots into the air. You can add a few large chunks of charcoal or bark to anchor the plant, but it’s not strictly necessary.
- Mounting: You can mount a Vanda on a piece of cork bark or tree fern plaque using fishing line or wire. This creates a beautiful natural display.
- Clear Pots: Some growers use clear plastic pots with very large holes and a chunky medium like lava rock. This allows light to reach the roots, which aids in photosynthesis.
Repotting is rarely needed unless the basket decays or the plant has completely outgrown its space. When you do repot, be extemely careful with the fragile roots.
Getting Your Vanda to Flower
You’re providing great care, but where are the blooms? Flowering is triggered by a combination of maturity, sufficient light, and a slight temperature drop.
- Ensure your plant is getting enough bright light. This is the number one reason for no flowers.
- If possible, provide a 10-15 degree drop in temperature between night and day in the fall.
- Be patient. A Vanda must be mature enough to bloom, which can take several years from a seedling.
- Once a flower spike appears, continue your regular care. Stake the spike gently if it gets long.
After the flowers fade, you can cut the spike back to the base. With good care, a healthy Vanda can bloom two or even three times a year.
Common Problems and Simple Solutions
Even experienced growers face issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
- Wrinkled, Limp Leaves: This is a sign of dehydration. Either the roots are not getting enough water (underwatering) or they are damaged and cannot take up water (often from overwatering/rot). Check your root health.
- Black or Mushy Roots: Root rot from overwatering or poor drainage. Cut away all affected roots with a sterile tool and adjust your watering schedule. Increase air flow.
- No Flowers: Insufficient light is the most likely culprit. Review the light requirements.
- Brown Leaf Tips: Can indicate fertilizer burn or low humidity. Flush the roots and check your feeding concentration.
Keep a watch for common pests like scale and mealybugs. Treat them early with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
FAQ About Vanda Orchids
How often do Vanda orchids bloom?
With optimal care, a mature Vanda can bloom 2-3 times per year. Each flower spike can last for several weeks.
Can I grow a Vanda orchid in regular potting soil?
Absolutely not. They will quickly suffocate and rot. They require an open, airy environment for their roots, such as a basket, mount, or very chunky medium like charcoal.
Why are the leaves on my Vanda turning yellow?
Yellow leaves can mean a few things: too much direct sun (causing sunburn), a natural shedding of older leaves, or occasionally a sign of overwatering. Assess its placement first.
How do I increase humidity for my Vanda?
Group it with other plants, use a room humidifier, or set it on a pebble tray. Daily morning misting of the roots also helps, but remember good air flow is essential to prevent disease.
Are Vanda orchids hard to grow?
They have a reputation for being challenging because of their high light and humidity needs. However, if you can meet these core requirements—especially with daily watering—they can be very rewarding and are less fussy about pests than some other orchids.
Caring for a Vanda orchid is a commitment, but it’s one that pays off in an incredible display of color. By focusing on their core needs—abundant light, daily water, high humidity, and warm temperatures—you’ll be well on your way to enjoying there spectacular exotic and vibrant blooms for many seasons to come. Start with a healthy strap-leaf variety, and don’t be discouraged by a few set-backs; every gardener learns by observing their plants.