If you have a beautiful crepe myrtle in your garden, you might have noticed new shoots popping up around its base. Learning how to transplant crepe myrtle shoots is a fantastic and cost-effective way to multiply your favorite plants. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from identifying the right shoot to caring for your new tree.
Transplanting these shoots, often called “suckers,” is easier than you might think. With a little patience and the right timing, you can turn one crepe myrtle into several. Let’s get started on giving those shoots a new home.
How To Transplant Crepe Myrtle Shoots
Before you grab your shovel, it’s crucial to understand what you’re working with. The shoots that spring up from the soil near the main tree are its way of trying to grow new trunks. While sometimes considered a nusiance, they are perfect for propagation. Success depends heavily on when and how you do it.
When is the Best Time to Transplant?
Timing is everything for a successful move. The ideal period is during the tree’s dormant season. This is when the plant is resting and experiences less shock from being disturbed.
- Late Fall to Early Winter: After the leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes. This allows the roots to settle in.
- Early Spring: Just before new buds begin to swell. The coming growth spurt helps the shoot establish quickly.
- Avoid transplanting in the heat of summer. The stress of moving combined with high temperatures can be too much for a young plant.
What You’ll Need
Gathering your tools beforehand makes the job smooth and easy. You won’t need anything too fancy.
- A sharp spade or shovel
- Pruning shears (clean and sharp)
- A bucket or tarp for holding the shoot
- A prepared planting site or large pots with drainage holes
- Quality potting mix or amended garden soil
- Watering can or hose
- Mulch (like pine bark or wood chips)
Choosing the Right Shoot to Transplant
Not every shoot is a good candidate. Picking a healthy, vigorous one gives you the best chance of success.
- Look for shoots that are at least 12-18 inches tall. They have a better root system of their own.
- Choose shoots that are away from the main tree’s trunk, ideally with some visible space around them.
- Avoid shoots that look spindly, diseased, or have damaged leaves. Health is key from the start.
Step-by-Step Transplanting Process
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first. This minimizes the time the shoot’s roots are exposed to air. The hole should be about twice as wide as the root ball you expect to dig up, and just as deep. Loosen the soil in the bottom and sides of the hole to help roots spread easily.
Step 2: Carefully Dig Up the Shoot
Using your spade, start digging a circle in the soil about 6-8 inches away from the shoot’s stem. Push the spade down deep to get under the root system. Try to get as much of the roots as possible. Gently lever the shoot up, keeping a ball of soil around the roots intact. Place it on your tarp or in the bucket.
Step 3: Examine and Prune the Roots
Once the shoot is up, look at its roots. If there are any long, circling, or broken roots, trim them back cleanly with your shears. This encourages new, healthy root growth in its new location. If the shoot is very tall, you can also trim back the top by about one-third to reduce stress on the roots.
Step 4: Plant the Shoot
Place the shoot in the center of your prepared hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding ground. Do not plant it to deep. Backfill the hole with your soil mix, gently firming it down as you go to remove any large air pockets.
Step 5: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
As soon as the shoot is planted, give it a slow, deep watering. This settles the soil around the roots. Then, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the stem itself. Mulch helps retain moisture and regulates soil temperature.
Caring for Your Transplanted Shoot
The first year is critical for establishment. Your care during this time determines its long-term health.
- Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy for the first growing season. Water deeply once or twice a week, depending on rainfall.
- No Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizing in the first year. The roots are tender and can be burned by fertilizer. Let them focus on growing outward.
- Sunlight: Ensure the shoot gets full sun, at least 6-8 hours per day. Crepe myrtles thrive in sunshine.
- Winter Protection: For fall transplants, a thicker layer of mulch after the first hard freeze can protect the new roots from cold snaps.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with the best intentions, it’s easy to make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.
- Transplanting in Summer: This is the number one cause of failure. The heat stress is simply to much for the young plant.
- Damaging the Main Tree: Be careful when digging around the parent tree’s roots. Avoid cutting into major anchor roots.
- Overwatering: While consistent moisture is key, waterlogged soil will cause the roots to rot. Ensure your site or pot has good drainage.
- Ignoring the Shoot’s Size: Tiny shoots with minimal roots rarely survive. Patience is key—wait for a robust shoot.
FAQ: Your Crepe Myrtle Transplant Questions Answered
How long does it take for a transplanted shoot to grow into a tree?
With good care, your shoot will establish itself in the first year and begin significant growth in the second. It may take 3-4 years before it reaches a small tree size and begins flowering reliably.
Can I transplant a crepe myrtle shoot into a pot?
Absolutely. Using a large pot with excellent drainage is a great option. It allows you to control the soil and water more easily. Just remember that potted plants need more frequent watering and may need winter protection in colder zones.
Should I use rooting hormone on the shoots?
It’s not usually necessary for shoots dug up with a good root ball. Rooting hormone is more for cuttings without roots. Your shoot already has a root system, so it’s ready to go.
Why are the leaves on my transplanted shoot wilting?
Some wilting or leaf drop is normal due to transplant shock. Ensure you are watering deeply and that the plant isn’t in direct, scorching wind. If wilting persists, check that the soil isn’t compacted or, conversely, too dry.
Can I do this with any type of crepe myrtle?
Yes, this method works for all common varieties of crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia). Whether you have a dwarf variety or a tall, spreading tree, the shoots can be transplanted following the same basic steps.
Transplanting crepe myrtle shoots is a rewarding project that adds more beauty to your landscape for free. By choosing the right time, handling the roots with care, and providing attentive follow-up, you’ll be amazed at how quickly these little shoots can grow into stunning, flowering trees. Just remember to be patient and enjoy the process of watching your new garden addition thrive.