Bulbophyllum Phalaenopsis

If you’re looking for an orchid that truly breaks the mold, look no further. The bulbophyllum phalaenopsis is an exotic and fragrant orchid that will stop you in your tracks with its unique appearance.

This isn’t your typical elegant moth orchid. It’s a fascinating member of the Bulbophyllum genus, the largest in the orchid family. Its flowers are waxy, fleshy, and arranged in a dense cluster that can look almost alien. But its most famous feature is its scent, which is as memorable as its looks.

Growing this plant is a rewarding challenge for intermediate to advanced orchid enthusiasts. It requires specific conditions to thrive, but the payoff is a spectacular and talking-point bloom. Let’s get into what makes this orchid so special and how you can care for it successfully.

This orchid’s name gives us clues about it. “Bulbophyllum” refers to its growth habit, producing pseudobulbs (the “bulbo”) with a single leaf (“phyllum”). “Phalaenopsis” means “moth-like,” describing the shape of its individual flowers. Native to New Guinea, it grows as an epiphyte in humid, lowland forests.

The inflorescence is its masterpiece. A long, arching spike emerges, bearing a tight, hanging cluster of up to 15-20 flowers. Each flower is about an inch across, with creamy white to pale green sepals and petals heavily spotted with maroon or purple. The lip is small and often a contrasting color.

Understanding Its Famous Fragrance

The scent of bulbophyllum phalaenopsis is why it’s so famous. It’s powerful and can fill a room. However, “fragrant” here is a polite term. The smell is often compared to rotting meat or spoiled fish.

This is a clever evolutionary strategy. The orchid uses this carrion scent to attract its specific pollinators: flies. To a fly, this smell signals a prime location to lay eggs. As the fly investigates, it picks up or deposits pollen, helping the orchid reproduce. The scent is usually strongest in the afternoon and on warm, humid days.

Don’t let this put you off. The strength varies between clones, and many growers find the oddity fascinating. It’s a perfect example of nature’s diversity. Just maybe don’t place it on your dining room table!

Ideal Growing Conditions

To keep your bulbophyllum phalaenopsis happy, you need to mimic its natural tropical habitat. Getting these conditions right is the key to seeing it bloom.

Light: It prefers bright, indirect light. Think similar to African Violets or Phalaenopsis. Too much direct sun will scorch its leaves. A east or shaded south-facing window is ideal. Leaves should be a medium green color; dark green means it needs more light.
Temperature: This is a warm-growing orchid. Aim for daytime temperatures between 75-85°F (24-29°C) and nighttime lows not below 65°F (18°C). It does not appreciate cold drafts or sudden temperature drops.
Humidity: High humidity is non-negotiable. You should maintain 70-80% relative humidity. This often requires a humidifier, especially in homes with air conditioning or heating. A pebble tray can help, but is usually insufficient on its own.
Air Movement: Stagnant, humid air invites fungal and bacterial rott. Ensure gentle, constant air circulation with a small fan. This keeps the leaves dry and the plant healthy.

Potting and Mounting Options

This orchid has a creeping rhizome that likes to grow horizontally. It also has fine roots that need air and quick drainage. You have two main options:

Mounting: Many growers prefer to mount it on a slab of cork bark or tree fern. This allows for perfect drainage and mimics its natural epiphytic habit. You’ll need to water it daily, sometimes twice a day in dry weather.
Potting: Use a very shallow, wide pot (often called a “bulb pan”) to accommodate its growth habit. The potting mix must be extremely open and fast-draining. A common mix is large-grade fir bark, perlite, and charcoal. Sphagnum moss can be added sparingly but risks staying too wet.

Repot only when the medium breaks down or the plant has clearly outgrown its space. The best time is just as new roots begin to emerge from the newest pseudobulb.

Watering and Feeding Your Orchid

Consistent moisture is crucial, but “moist” does not mean “soggy.” The roots should never sit in waterlogged medium.

Watering: Water thoroughly when the potting medium is just approaching dryness. For mounted plants, this means a good soaking daily. Use lukewarm water, preferably rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water. Tap water with high mineral content can harm the roots over time.
Fertilizing: Feed weekly with a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer (like 20-20-20) at 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength. The saying “weekly, weakly” applies perfectly here. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup from the fertilizer.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with good care, issues can arise. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems.

No Blooms: Usually caused by insufficient light or not enough humidity. Check your light levels and ensure your temperature differential between day and night is adequate. A lack of a seasonal change can also inhibit flowering.
Leaf Spotting or Rot: This is often a sign of fungal or bacterial infection, exacerbated by water on the leaves or poor air circulation. Increase air flow, avoid splashing leaves when watering, and remove affected tissue with a sterile tool.
Pseudobulbs Shriveling: This indicates dehydration. It could be from underwatering, but more commonly, it’s because the roots have rotted from overwatering and can no longer absorb moisture. Check the root system health.
Pests: Watch for scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat infestations promptly with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap, ensuring to cover all crevices of the plant.

Propagation Tips

You can propagate bulbophyllum phalaenopsis by division. This is best done during repotting when the plant has at least 6-8 healthy pseudobulbs.

Remove the plant from its pot and gently clear away old potting medium.
Identify a natural separation point along the rhizome, ensuring each division has at least 3-4 mature pseudobulbs and some new growth.
Using a sterile, sharp knife, cut through the rhizome.
Dust the cuts with cinnamon or a fungicide to prevent infection.
Pot each division separately into fresh, appropriate medium. Water lightly at first, increasing as new roots establish.

Be patient. Divisions can take a year or more to fully recover and bloom again. It’s better to make fewer, larger divisions than many small, weak ones.

Displaying Your Unique Plant

Given its unusual scent, placement is key. A sunroom, greenhouse, or well-ventilated hobby room is ideal. If you want to enjoy the flowers indoors temporarily, place it in a well-lit area away from where you eat or entertain. The scent is part of its charm, but it’s an acquired taste!

Its trailing flower spike makes it perfect for hanging baskets or placing on a high shelf where the cluster can dangle freely. This also helps disperse its fragrance in the air, for better or worse. The visual impact is truly stunning when it’s in full bloom.

FAQ About Bulbophyllum Phalaenopsis

Q: Is the Bulbophyllum phalaenopsis orchid hard to grow?
A: It has a reputation for being challenging, mainly due to its high humidity requirements. It’s not a beginner’s orchid, but with attention to its core needs—warmth, humidity, and consistent watering—it can be grown successfully.

Q: How often does this orchid species bloom?
A: Typically once per year, often in late summer or fall. The flowers can last for several weeks, providing a long-lasting display. Mature, well-cared-for plants may sometimes produce a second, smaller spike.

Q: Can I grow it without the smell?
A: The scent is an intrinsic part of the flower’s biology. While intensity varies, you cannot have a scent-free bloom. If you love the look but not the fragrance, consider enjoying it in a separate, airy space.

Q: What’s the best potting mix for a Bulbophyllum?
A: An open, chunky mix is essential. A combination of large pine bark, perlite, and horticultural charcoal is excellent. Some growers add a small amount of sphagnum moss for moisture retention, but be cautious not to overdo it.

Q: Why are the leaves on my plant turning yellow?
A: A single old leaf yellowing and falling off is normal. If multiple leaves or new growth is yellowing, it could be from overwatering, root rot, or too much direct sunlight. Assess your care routine and adjust accordingly.

Cultivating the bulbophyllum phalaenopsis is a journey into the more unusual side of orchid growing. It asks for a bit more from you in terms of humidity and understanding, but it rewards you with one of the most memorable flowering experiences in the plant world. Its striking form and infamous perfume are a testiment to the incredible diversity found in orchidaceae. With patience and the right setup, you can enjoy this remarkable exotic and fragrant orchid for many years.