If you’ve found a bag of potatoes in your pantry that have started to sprout, don’t throw them out. You can learn how to plant sprouted potatoes and turn them into a whole new crop. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from preparing those sprouted spuds to harvesting your own homegrown potatoes.
How To Plant Sprouted Potatoes
Planting potatoes from sprouted ones is a rewarding and economical way to start your garden. It’s a perfect project for beginners and experienced gardeners alike. You’re essentially recycling kitchen scraps into a bountiful harvest.
Why You Should Plant Sprouted Potatoes
Using sprouted potatoes from your kitchen is a fantastic form of garden recycling. It reduces food waste and saves you money on seed potatoes. Those sprouts are a sign the potato is eager to grow, giving you a head start on the season.
Homegrown potatoes taste incredible, far superior to most store-bought varieties. You also get to choose organic methods, ensuring your food is free from unwanted chemicals. It’s a satisfying cycle from kitchen to garden and back again.
What You’ll Need to Get Started
Gathering your supplies before you begin makes the process smooth. You likely have many of these items already.
- Sprouted potatoes (the more sprouts, the better!)
- A sharp, clean knife
- Well-draining soil (potatoes hate soggy feet)
- A sunny spot in your garden or a large container (at least 10-12 gallons)
- Compost or well-rotted manure
- A shovel or a trowel
- Watering can or hose
Step 1: Choosing and Preparing Your Sprouted Potatoes
Not every sprouted potato is ideal for planting. Select firm potatoes with multiple healthy, stocky sprouts that are green or purple. Avoid any that are soft, shriveled, or have mold.
If the potato is large with several sprouts, you can cut it into pieces. This is called “chitting.” Each piece should be about the size of a golf ball and must have at least one or two strong sprouts attached.
Let the cut pieces sit in a cool, dry, and airy place for one to two days. This allows the cut surfaces to dry and form a callus, which prevents rot once planted. Its a crucial step for success.
Step 2: Picking the Perfect Planting Site
Potatoes need full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil is the most important factor. It must be loose and well-draining. Heavy, clay-rich soil can lead to poor tuber development and disease.
If your garden soil is poor, consider planting in containers or raised beds filled with a mix of quality potting soil and compost. This gives you complete control over the growing environment and can result in a fantastic harvest.
Preparing Your Garden Bed
Loosen the soil deeply, about 12 inches down. Mix in a generous 3-4 inch layer of compost or aged manure. This provides nutrients and improves soil structure. Remove any rocks or large clumps that could obstruct the growing potatoes.
Step 3: The Planting Process
Timing is key. Plant your potato pieces after the danger of a hard frost has passed in the spring, when soil temperatures reach around 45-50°F. You can plant them earlier in containers if you can move them to shelter if frost threatens.
- Dig a trench about 6 inches deep. If planting multiple potatoes, space trenches about 2-3 feet apart.
- Place your potato piece in the trench with the sprouts pointing upward. This is essential—the sprouts become the new plant stems.
- Space the seed pieces about 12 inches apart within the row.
- Cover gently with 4 inches of soil. Do not pack it down tightly.
- Water the area thoroughly after planting.
Planting in Containers
For containers, place a few inches of soil mix at the bottom. Position your seed pieces on top and cover with 4-6 inches of soil. As the plants grow, you’ll add more soil, a process called “hilling.”
Step 4: Caring for Your Growing Potato Plants
Consistent care after planting ensures a healthy crop. The main tasks are watering, hilling, and watching for pests.
Potatoes need about 1-2 inches of water per week. Its best to water deeply and less frequently, ensuring the soil is moist but never waterlogged. Uneven watering can lead to misshapen tubers.
The Importance of Hilling
When the green shoots reach about 6-8 inches tall, it’s time to hill. Mound soil around the base of the plant, leaving just the top few leaves exposed. This protects developing tubers from sunlight, which turns them green and toxic.
Repeat this hilling process every few weeks as the plant grows. In containers, simply add more soil mix. Hilling also helps with weed control and supports the plant.
Fertilizing and Pest Watch
A side dressing of compost when you hill is usually sufficient fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth at the expense of tubers.
Keep an eye out for Colorado potato beetles. Hand-pick them and their orange egg clusters off leaves. Good crop rotation (not planting potatoes in the same spot year after year) is vital for preventing disease.
Step 5: Knowing When and How to Harvest
You can harvest “new” potatoes when plants begin to flower. Gently dig around the plant with your hands to steal a few tender, small potatoes.
For mature potatoes for storage, wait until the plant’s foliage turns yellow and dies back completely. This means the tubers have reached there full size and the skins have set.
- Choose a dry day to harvest.
- Use a digging fork carefully, starting far from the plant center to avoid spearing tubers.
- Brush off excess soil, but do not wash the potatoes.
Curing and Storing Your Harvest
After digging, let your potatoes cure for 1-2 weeks in a dark, well-ventilated place with moderate humidity. This thickens the skin for long-term storage. After curing, store them in a cool, dark, and dry location like a basement or cellar.
Check stored potatoes regularly and remove any that show signs of spoiling. Properly cured and stored potatoes can last for several months.
Common Problems and Simple Solutions
- Green Potatoes: Caused by exposure to light. Always hill properly and store in total darkness. Green parts are toxic and must be cut off before eating.
- Hollow Heart: A cavity inside the tuber often due to uneven watering. Maintain consistent soil moisture.
- Scabby Patches on Skin: A soil-borne disease. Prevent by rotating crops and maintaining slightly acidic soil (add sulfur if needed).
FAQ: Planting Sprouted Potatoes
Can I plant a potato that is really sprouted?
Yes, you can. If the sprouts are long and pale (etiolated), they are a bit fragile. Handle them carefully during planting. The plant will still grow.
Do you plant the whole sprouted potato?
You can plant small, egg-sized potatoes whole. For larger ones, its better to cut them into pieces, each with sprouts, to maximize your seed stock.
How long does it take to grow potatoes from sprouts?
Typically, you can harvest new potatoes in about 10 weeks. Mature potatoes for storage take roughly 80-100 days, depending on the variety.
Can I use store-bought sprouted potatoes?
You can, but be aware that many commercial potatoes are treated with a sprout inhibitor. They may grow slower. Organic potatoes are a safer bet for planting.
What’s the difference between seed potatoes and sprouted eating potatoes?
Seed potatoes are certified disease-free. Sprouted eating potatoes might carry disease, but for home gardens, the risk is often low, especially if you save your own or use organic ones.
Following this guide on how to plant sprouted potatoes is a straightforward path to growing your own food. With a little preparation and consistent care, those forgotten spuds in your cupboard can become the start of a delicious and rewarding harvest. Get ready to enjoy the simple pleasure of digging up your own homegrown potatoes.