Planting anemone bulbs can be a bit confusing, especially when you’re holding the odd-looking corm and wondering which end goes up. Getting the orientation right is the first step to a beautiful spring or fall display. This guide will clear up the mystery of which way up do anemone bulbs go and give you all the tips you need for success.
Which Way Up Do Anemone Bulbs Go
The simple answer is that you often don’t need to worry too much. Anemone corms, which are often called bulbs, don’t have a obvious top and bottom like tulips do. They are usually irregular, knobby, and flat. If you look closely, one side might be slightly concave (dished in) and the other slightly convex (rounded out). A good rule is to plant the concave or pointed side facing down. The flatter side, or the side with little bumps (which are old stem scars), generally faces up.
Understanding Anemone Corms vs. True Bulbs
First, let’s clarify some terminology. What we commonly call anemone “bulbs” are technically corms. A true bulb, like a daffodil, has layers like an onion. A corm is a solid stem base that stores food. This distinction is helpful because it explains their shape. Corms don’t have a neat pointed top. Instead, they have growth points that sprout from the top surface. Knowing this takes the pressure off – they’re designed to find their way.
Identifying the Top and Bottom
Here’s a quick checklist to examine your anemone corms before planting:
- Look for the Concave Side: Often, there is a slight indentation. This is usually the top where the stem will emerge.
- Find the Pointed Nub: Sometimes there’s a small, pointed remnant of last year’s growth. This goes up.
- Check for a Flatter Base: The bottom may be slightly flatter or have traces of roots. This goes down.
- If in Doubt: If you really can’t tell, plant the corm on its side. The plant’s natural geotropism (growth response to gravity) will guide the shoots upward and roots downward.
Step-by-Step Planting Guide for Anemones
Now that you know which way up do anemone bulbs go, let’s walk through the full planting process. Proper planting depth and soil prep are just as important as orientation.
1. Pre-Soaking the Corms
Anemone corms are often hard and dry when you buy them. Soaking them gives them a vital head start. Place them in a bowl of lukewarm water for 2-4 hours. You’ll notice them plump up slightly. Don’t soak for longer than 12 hours, as they can rot. This step hydrates the corm and kick-starts the growth process.
2. Choosing and Preparing the Site
Anemones thrive in well-draining soil. They hate sitting in soggy earth. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade. Work some compost or well-rotted manure into the soil to improve fertility and drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, consider raising the bed or planting in containers.
3. The Planting Process
- Depth: Plant anemone corms about 2 inches deep. A good mantra is “plant at a depth twice the height of the corm.”
- Spacing: Space them about 3 to 6 inches apart. For a natural, drifty look, you can scatter them and plant them where they land.
- Orientation: Place the corm with the concave side up and the flatter or root-trace side down. If unsure, lay it on its side.
- Cover and Water: Gently cover with soil and water in well. The soil should be moist, not waterlogged.
Seasonal Timing for Planting
When you plant depends on your climate and the anemone type.
- Spring-Blooming Anemones (like Anemone blanda): Plant these in the fall, a few weeks before your ground freezes. They need a period of winter chilling to bloom well.
- Fall-Blooming Anemones (like Anemone hupehensis or japonica): These are often planted as potted plants, but if you have corms, plant them in spring after the last frost.
- Windflowers (Anemone coronaria, like De Caen or St. Brigid): These can be planted in fall in mild-winter climates (zones 7-10) for spring bloom. In colder climates, plant them in early spring as soon as the soil is workable.
Aftercare for Healthy Growth
Planting is just the beginning. A little care ensures a strong show of flowers.
Watering and Feeding
Keep the soil consistently moist after planting until shoots appear. Once established, water regularly, especially during dry spells. A balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in early spring can support strong growth and flowering. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to more leaves than flowers.
Mulching and Winter Care
A layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture and suppress weeds. In colder regions (zones 4-6), a thick mulch of straw or leaves after the ground freezes can protect fall-planted corms from extreme temperature shifts. In spring, you can pull the mulch back as the weather warms.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with perfect planting, issues can arise. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
- No Sprouts: The most common cause is rot from overly wet soil. Ensure your site has excellent drainage. Squirrels or mice might also dig up the corms; chicken wire laid over the bed can deter them.
- Leggy, Flopping Stems: This usually means not enough sun. Anemones prefer at least half a day of full sun. Too much nitrogen fertilizer can also cause weak growth.
- Few Flowers: Insufficient light is a top culprit. They also may need a feed with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the fertilizer label) to promote blooming.
Lifting and Storing Corms
In colder zones, tender anemone coronaria corms are often treated as annuals or lifted for storage. After the foliage dies back in summer, carefully dig up the corms. Let them dry in a cool, airy place for a week. Brush off the soil and store them in a paper bag with some dry peat moss or vermiculite in a cool, dark place until it’s time to plant again. Check on them occasionally to ensure they’re not getting moldy.
FAQ: Your Anemone Questions Answered
How deep should I plant anemone bulbs?
Plant them about 2 inches deep. In lighter, sandy soil, you can go a bit deeper; in heavy clay, keep them a bit shallower to improve drainage around the corm.
Can I plant anemone corms in pots?
Absolutely! Use a well-draining potting mix and ensure the pot has drainage holes. Plant them at the same depth, and you can place them closer together for a fuller display. Pots need more frequent watering than garden beds.
Why are my anemones not flowering?
Besides lack of sun, they might be getting too much nitrogen (which fuels leaves, not flowers). Try a bloom-booster fertilizer. Also, some types need to be established for a year before they really put on a show, so be patient.
Do anemones come back every year?
It depends on the type and your climate. Anemone blanda and Anemone hupehensis are generally perennial and will spread over time. The florist’s anemone (Anemone coronaria) is less hardy and often grown as an annual or lifted in colder zones.
What is the best way to orient anemone bulbs if I’m unsure?
When you truly cannot tell which way up do anemone bulbs go, planting them on their side is the safest bet. This takes the guesswork out and lets the plant do what comes naturally. It’s a handy trick for many irregular corms.
Remember, anemones are more resilient than they seem. Even if you plant a few upside down, many will still find there way to the surface, though it might take them a bit longer. The most important factors are good drainage, adequate sunlight, and proper planting depth. With these elements in place, you’ll be rewarded with charming, dancing flowers that brighten your garden for seasons to come. Don’t be afraid to experiment a little – gardening is often about learning what works best in your own unique space.