What Is Eating My Lambs Ear Plant

If you’re noticing ragged holes, slimy trails, or a general decline in your soft, velvety perennial, you’re likely asking: what is eating my lambs ear plant? This common garden issue can be frustrating, but identifying the culprit is the first step to a healthy plant. Let’s look at the most common pests that target Stachys byzantina and how to deal with them effectively.

Lambs ear is beloved for its fuzzy, silver-green foliage. While it’s somewhat drought and deer resistant, several persistent garden pests find it irresistable. The good news is that most of these problems have straightforward solutions.

Several insects and animals are drawn to lambs ear. The damage they cause looks different, which helps you pinpoint the problem. Here are the primary suspects, starting with the most frequent offenders.

1. Slugs and Snails

These are the number one enemy of lambs ear. The dense, low-growing foliage creates a cool, damp hiding place they adore. They chew irregular holes in the leaves, often starting from the edge, and leave behind a tell-tale silvery mucus trail.

Look for: Ragged holes, especially after rain. Check under leaves and in the plant’s center at dawn or dusk.
Why they love it: The thick leaves hold moisture, creating a perfect habitat.

2. Vine Weevils

This pest is a double threat. The adult weevils notch the edges of leaves during the night. However, the real danger lies underground with their larvae, which feed on the roots, often causing sudden plant collapse.

Look for: Crescent-shaped notches on leaf margins. Wilting plants with healthy leaves may indicate root damage from grubs.
Lifecycle: Adults are active in late spring/summer; grubs are in soil year-round.

3. Mealybugs and Aphids

These sap-sucking insects cluster on stems and the undersides of leaves. They weaken the plant by feeding on its juices and can introduce diseases. Their sticky “honeydew” excretion also leads to sooty mold.

Look for: White, cottony masses (mealybugs) or small green/black clusters (aphids). Distorted or yellowing leaves are another sign.
Secondary Damage: Ants farming the insects for honeydew or black sooty mold on leaves.

Less Common Culprits

While the above are the main pests, sometimes other creatures are to blame. Deer and rabbits may sample lambs ear, though they often avoid it due to its texture. Earwigs might hide in the foliage and chew small holes. In very dry conditions, spider mites can cause stippling on leaves.

Step-by-Step: Diagnosing the Damage

Follow these steps to figure out who’s feasting on your plants.

Inspect the Leaves: Turn leaves over. Look for insects, eggs, or slime trails. Note the shape of the holes—ragged (slugs) or notched (weevils)?
Check the Soil and Crown: Gently dig around the base. Look for white grubs (vine weevil larvae) or sowbugs. The crown of the plant should be firm, not mushy.
Night Inspection: Many pests are nocturnal. Grab a flashlight and check the plant after dark for slugs, snails, or weevils.
Monitor Plant Health: Is just one plant affected, or the whole patch? Sudden wilting points to root issues; gradual leaf damage suggests foliar feeders.

Effective Treatment Strategies

Once you’ve identified the pest, you can choose a targeted, often organic, solution.

For Slugs and Snails:

Hand-picking: Still very effective. Do it in the evening or early morning.
Traps: Sink a bowl of beer or a yeast-sugar water mixture into the soil near the plant.
Barriers: Sprinkle diatomaceous earth or crushed eggshells around the plant base (reapply after rain).
Iron Phosphate Baits: These organic pellets are safe for pets and wildlife and are highly effective.

For Vine Weevils:

Nematodes: Apply microscopic beneficial nematodes (Heterorhabditis bacteriophora) to the soil. They actively seek out and kill the larvae. This is the best control method.
Adult Control: At night, shake plants over a sheet to collect adults. They are slow and cannot fly, making this easier.
Potted Plants: For container-grown lambs ear, completely repot with fresh soil to remove grubs.

For Mealybugs and Aphids:

Strong Spray: A firm jet of water from the hose can dislodge many insects.
Insecticidal Soap or Neem Oil: Spray thoroughly, covering the undersides of leaves. Reapply every 5-7 days as needed.
Natural Predators: Encourage ladybugs, lacewings, and birds into your garden, who will eat these pests.

Prevention is Key

Keeping your lambs ear healthy from the start is the best defense. A stressed plant is more suseptible to attack.

Improve Airflow: Space plants properly and thin them out if they become to dense. This reduces humidity that slugs love.
Water Wisely: Water at the soil level in the morning, not overhead in the evening. Wet foliage overnight invites slugs and fungal disease.
Clean Up Debris: Remove dead leaves from the plant’s center in fall and spring to eliminate pest hiding spots.
Choose the Right Spot: Lambs ear prefers full sun and well-drained soil. In too much shade, it stays damp and pest-prone.

When to Consider Plant Health

Sometimes, what looks like pest damage could be a cultural issue. If you see widespread browning or rotting in the center of the plant, especially in humid climates, it might be fungal disease like leaf spot or rot from excess moisture. Severe root damage from weevil grubs can also mimic disease symptoms. Always check the roots if a plant suddenly declines.

FAQ

What’s making holes in my lambs ear leaves?
This is most commonly caused by slugs and snails. Look for irregular holes and slimy trails. Vine weevils also cause distinctive notches along the leaf edges.

How do I stop slugs from eating my lambs ear?
Use a combination of tactics: hand-pick at night, set beer traps, create barriers with diatomaceous earth, and apply iron phosphate bait. Improving airflow and reducing evening watering helps to.

Why is my lambs ear plant dying from the center?
This can be due to overcrowding and poor air circulation leading to rot, or it could be severe root damage from vine weevil larvae. Dig up the plant to inspect the roots and crown.

Are there any plants that deter these pests?
While no plant is a perfect shield, interplanting with aromatic herbs like rosemary, sage, or lavender may help repel some insects. However, direct control methods for the specific pest are more reliable.

Should I use chemical pesticides?
We rarely recommend them for these pests. Systemic pesticides can harm pollinators visiting the flowers. The organic methods listed—nematodes, iron phosphate, hand-picking, soaps—are effective and safer for your garden’s ecosystem.

Figuring out what is eating your lambs ear plant takes a little detective work, but it’s usually straightforward. By matching the damage to the pest and taking prompt, targeted action, you can protect your soft, silvery foliage. With good care and prevention, your lambs ear can thrive and spread, providing it’s wonderful texture to your garden for years to come.