How To Prune French Lavender

If you want to keep your french lavender looking full and flowering well, you need to know how to prune it correctly. Learning how to prune french lavender is the single most important thing you can do for its long-term health, as it prevents the plant from becoming woody and sprawling. This easy step-by-step guide will walk you through the process with simple instructions, so you can approach your plants with confidence and secateurs in hand.

Pruning isn’t just about shaping. It encourages fresh, bushy growth and ensures your lavender produces those iconic fragrant blooms for years to come. Neglect it, and the plant will quickly become leggy, split open in the center, and produce fewer flowers. The good news is, it’s a straightforward task once you know the basic rules and timing.

French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) has a slightly different growth habit and pruning need compared to its English cousin. It’s more tender and often treated as an annual in colder climates, but with proper pruning, you can maintain a beautiful plant for several seasons. The key principles are simple: never cut back into old, bare wood and always prune at the right time of year.

Why Pruning French Lavender is Non-Negotiable

Unlike some garden shrubs, lavender will not regenerate from old wood. If you cut back too far into stems that have no green leaves, those stems will simply die. This leaves you with a gaping, woody plant that’s beyond repair. Regular, light pruning prevents this by stimulating new growth from the base each year.

Pruning also improves air circulation within the plant, which helps prevent fungal diseases like root rot. It removes spent flower heads, encouraging a second flush of blooms in many varieties. Most importantly, it maintains that lovely, compact, silver-green mound that makes lavender so attractive in the garden or pot.

The Best Time to Prune: A Two-Stage Approach

For the healthiest plants, you should plan for two light pruning sessions per year rather than one drastic cut.

Main Prune (Late Summer to Early Fall): This is your most significant cut, done after the main flowering has finished but well before the first frost. It gives the plant time to heal and put on a little new growth before winter.
Light Tidy-Up (Early Spring): A very gentle shaping in early spring, just as new growth starts to appear at the base. This removes any winter-damaged tips and prepares the plant for the growing season. Avoid heavy pruning in spring, as this can reduce flowering.

Tools You’ll Need for the Job

Using the right tools makes the job cleaner and easier on the plant.

Sharp Bypass Secateurs/Pruners: Essential for making clean cuts. Anvil-type pruners can crush the stems.
Gardening Gloves: Lavender can be a bit scratchy on the hands.
A Basket or Tarp: For collecting your clippings, which can be used for potpourri or compost.

Always wipe your blades with a disinfectant before moving between plants to prevent spreading any disease. It’s a step many gardeners forget, but it’s crucial for plant health.

Step-by-Step Pruning Guide for French Lavender

Follow these numbered steps during your late summer prune for the best results.

Assess Your Plant: First, take a good look. Identify the current season’s growth (softer, greener) and the older, woodier stems from previous years. Notice where the small, green leaf buds are forming along the stems.
Remove Spent Flower Stalks: Start by cutting off the old flower heads. Follow the flower stem down to where it meets the main foliage and make your cut just above the first set of leaves.
Shape the Foliage: Now, shape the green leafy part of the plant. Aim to remove about one-third of the current year’s soft growth. Imagine giving the plant a “haircut” to maintain its mounded shape.
The Golden Rule – Avoid the Wood: As you prune, constantly check that you are not cutting into the thick, brown, woody base. Always leave at least an inch or two of soft, green growth above the woody part. If you see no green buds on a stem, leave it be; cutting it back won’t stimulate new growth.
Clean Up and Dispose: Gather all your trimmings. Healthy clippings can be dried, but any diseased or soggy material should go in the compost or green waste.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Even with good intentions, it’s easy to make errors. Here are the big ones to watch out for.

Cutting Back Too Hard: The number one killer of lavender. If you shear it back to a woody skeleton, it will not recover.
Pruning at the Wrong Time: A heavy prune in winter or early spring exposes tender new cuts to frost damage and sacrifices that year’s flowers.
Using Dull or Dirty Tools: This creates ragged tears where disease can enter, rather than clean cuts that heal quickly.
Not Pruning at All: Letting the plant grow unchecked leads to a leggy, falling-apart specimen within just a couple of years.

What to Do With a Woody, Overgrown Lavender

If you’ve inherited or neglected a plant that’s already gone woody, your options are limited. French lavender is less likely to recover from hard renovation than English lavender. However, you can try a careful salvage operation.

In early spring, examine the plant closely. Look very carefully for any tiny green shoots or buds hidden on the woody stems. If you find some, you can prune back to just above those buds. If there is absolutely no green sign’s of life on a stem, it is dead and should be removed. The plant may regrow from the base if the roots are healthy, but success isn’t guaranteed. Often, it’s best to replace severely woody plants.

Aftercare Following Pruning

Your lavender doesn’t need much fuss after a prune, but a little care helps.

Watering: Give it a light watering if the soil is dry, but lavender is drought-tolerant and hates soggy roots. Don’t overdo it.
Feeding: Lavender thrives in poor soil. A light sprinkle of general-purpose fertilizer in spring is plenty, but avoid high-nitrogen feeds that promote leafy growth over flowers.
Mulching: Apply a thin layer of gravel or grit around the base. This improves drainage, keeps the leaves dry, and suppresses weeds. Avoid organic mulches like bark that hold moisture.

FAQ: Your French Lavender Pruning Questions Answered

Can I prune french lavender in spring?

Yes, but only lightly. In early spring, just remove any frost-damaged or dead tips and give it a very light shape. The main, harder prune should always be done in late summer.

How far back can you cut french lavender?

You should never cut back into the hard, brown wood. Always leave at least 1-2 inches of the current year’s soft, green growth. Cutting further back risks killing the stem entirely.

What is the difference between pruning English and French lavender?

The timing is slightly different. English lavender is hardier and often receives its main prune in late summer or even early spring. French lavender is more tender and must be pruned in late summer to allow for healing before winter. The “don’t cut into old wood” rule applies to both.

My lavender looks dead after pruning. What happened?

If you see no new growth after several weeks in the growing season, you likely cut back too hard into the woody material. Unfortunately, stems cut back beyond the green growth will not regrow. Check the base of the plant for any new shoots; if none appear, the plant may need replacing.

Can I use hedge trimmers to prune my lavender?

While possible for a very light trim on a large hedge, it’s not recommended. Hedge trimmers make it difficult to avoid the woody base and often create crushed, messy cuts. Hand pruners give you the precision needed for a healthy prune.

Pruning your french lavender is a simple yet vital ritual. By following this guide—pruning lightly twice a year, always avoiding the woody base, and using sharp tools—you’ll be rewarded with a fragrant, floriferous, and beautifully shaped plant for many seasons. Remember, a little timely care prevents a lot of problems down the road, ensuring your lavender remains a highlight in your garden.