When To Plant Crepe Myrtle In Texas

If you’re wondering when to plant crepe myrtle in Texas, you’ve come to the right place. Timing is everything for getting these beautiful trees off to a strong start. The good news is, Texas offers a long planting window that makes success easy. This guide will walk you through the best seasons, step-by-step planting, and care tips tailored for the unique Texas climate.

The optimal time to plant crepe myrtle in Texas is during its dormant season. This period runs from late fall, after the tree loses its leaves, through the winter and into very early spring, before new growth emerges. Planting during dormancy allows the tree to focus its energy on establishing a robust root system instead of supporting leaves and flowers.

This gives it a huge advantage when the summer heat arrives. Let’s break down the two best planting windows within the dormant season.

Primary Planting Window: Late Fall

Late fall, specifically from mid-November through December, is often considered the ideal time. The soil is still warm from the summer, which encourages root growth, but the air is cool, reducing stress on the tree.

The tree is fully dormant, so transplant shock is minimized.
Fall and winter rains (in most years) help with initial watering without over-saturation.
Roots establish all winter, so the tree is ready to grow vigorously come spring.

Secondary Planting Window: Late Winter to Early Spring

If you miss the fall window, your next best chance is late winter, around February, before the tree breaks dormancy. This is especially good in colder regions of North Texas where the ground freezes.

Avoid planting once new, green leaves have unfurled in spring.
Planting in March or April is risky, as the tree must cope with immediate heat stress while trying to establish roots.

Why You Should Avoid Summer Planting

Planting a crepe myrtle during the intense Texas summer is a recipe for struggle. The tree will demand constant watering to survive, and its energy will be diverted to keeping leaves alive instead of growing roots. This leads to stunted growth and increased susceptibility to pests and disease. It’s simply not worth the extra work and risk.

Texas Regional Planting Adjustments

Texas is a big state with several climate zones. Here’s how to adjust your timing:

North Texas (DFW, Lubbock, Amarillo)

Winters are colder here. Focus on early to mid-fall or very early spring. Avoid planting if a hard freeze is imminent. The soil can get quite cold, so mulching after planting is extra important to insulate those new roots.

Central Texas (Austin, San Antonio, Hill Country)

This region has the most flexible schedule. Both late fall and late winter planting work excellently. The milder winters are perfect for root establishment. Just be prepared for potential dry spells and water accordingly.

South Texas & Gulf Coast (Houston, Corpus Christi, Valley)

Mild winters allow for a very long dormant planting season, often from November through February. The high humidity can encourage fungal issues, so ensure your planting site has good air circulation. Summer heat arrives early, so an earlier fall planting is advantageous.

West Texas (El Paso, Midland, Odessa) has arid conditions. Fall planting is superior here, as it gives roots maximum time to settle before the extreme dry heat. Drip irrigation is almost essential for success in this region.

Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Your Crepe Myrtle

Now that you know when to plant, let’s cover how to do it right. Following these steps will ensure your tree thrives for decades.

Choose the Right Cultivar: Select a variety that fits your space. Crepe myrtles range from dwarf shrubs (3-5 ft) to large trees (over 30 ft). Never top a large variety to keep it small; just plant a smaller type instead.
Pick the Perfect Spot: Crepe myrtles need full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Less sun means fewer blooms. Ensure the site has well-draining soil; they hate “wet feet.”
Dig the Hole: Dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball itself. Planting too deep is a common cause of failure. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil.
Handle the Root Ball: Gently remove the container. If the roots are densely circling, use a knife to make shallow vertical cuts along the sides and tease them out. This encourages them to grow outward.
Position and Backfill: Place the tree in the hole. Backfill with the native soil you removed, unless it is pure rock or heavy clay. In that case, amend it with some compost. Avoid creating a rich “potting soil” environment that roots won’t want to leave.
Water Deeply: Once the hole is half filled with soil, water thoroughly to settle it and remove air pockets. Then finish backfilling and water again. Create a small soil berm around the edge to form a watering basin.
Mulch Generously: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch (like shredded hardwood) around the tree, extending out to the drip line. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Stake Only If Necessary: Most crepe myrtles do not need staking. Only stake if the tree is top-heavy or in a very windy location, and remove stakes after one year.

Critical After-Planting Care for Texas

Your job isn’t done after planting. Proper follow-up is key, especially in the first two years.

Watering Schedule

First 3 Months: Water deeply 2-3 times per week, depending on rainfall. The goal is to keep the root ball moist but not soggy.
First Year: Water deeply once a week during the active growing season, and twice a week during extreme summer heat or drought.
Year 2 & Beyond: Crepe myrtles are drought-tolerant once established. Water deeply every 2-3 weeks during prolonged dry spells in summer.

Always water at the base of the tree, not the leaves, to prevent disease.

Fertilizing and Pruning

Do not fertilize at planting time. Wait until the second spring. Then, use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring as new growth appears. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth at the expense of blooms.

For pruning, simply remove any dead, crossing, or damaged branches in late winter. The dreaded “crepe murder” (severe topping) is never necessary and ruins the tree’s natural shape. If you need to control size, you chose the wrong variety.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Planting Too Deep: This is the number one killer. The root flare must be visible.
Over-Amending the Soil: Creates a “container effect” where roots won’t expand into native soil.
Overwatering: Leads to root rot. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings.
Wrong Place: Not enough sun equals a weak, poorly blooming tree.
Summer Planting: As discussed, this puts immense stress on the tree.

FAQ: Planting Crepe Myrtles in Texas

Can I plant crepe myrtle in Texas in October?

Yes, October can be a good time, especially in Central and North Texas. It’s early in the dormant season, giving roots plenty of time to establish. Just ensure you’re past the last of the extreme summer heat.

Is March too late to plant crepe myrtle?

It can be risky. If the tree is still dormant (no leaves), March is okay in North Texas. In South Texas, where spring comes early, March is likely too late and you should wait until the next fall.

What is the best month to plant crepe myrtles?

In most of Texas, the single best month is November. The weather is reliably cool, and soil conditions are ideal.

How do I protect a newly planted crepe myrtle from a late freeze?

If a hard freeze is forecast after a late winter planting, simply mound extra mulch around the base of the tree to insulate the roots and graft union. For the young branches, you can loosely cover the tree with a frost cloth overnight.

By choosing the right time—late fall through early spring—and following proper planting techniques, your crepe myrtle will reward you with decades of stunning, heat-tolerant beauty with minimal fuss. It’s one of the most reliable trees you can add to your Texas landscape.