If you’re tired of dealing with messy soil and frequent watering, learning how to grow plants in leca can be a fantastic solution. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing your first plant to maintaining a thriving semi-hydroponic system.
LECA stands for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate. These are small, baked clay balls that absorb water and release it to your plant’s roots as needed. It’s a clean, reusable, and effective way to grow many houseplants, offering better aeration and reducing the risk of overwatering.
How To Grow Plants In Leca
Before you start, you’ll need to gather a few supplies. Having everything ready makes the transition much smoother for both you and your plant.
Essential Supplies You’ll Need
- LECA Balls: You can buy these online or at garden centers. Rinse them thoroughly before use to remove clay dust.
- Net Pots or Inner Pots: These are pots with holes or slits that hold the LECA and plant, allowing roots to grow through.
- Outer Cache Pot: A solid, watertight pot that holds the nutrient solution and contains the net pot.
- Hydroponic Fertilizer: Regular plant food won’t work. You need a complete hydroponic nutrient that contains all essential minerals.
- pH Test Kit & pH Up/Down: Crucial for keeping your nutrient solution in the ideal range (usually 5.5-6.5 for most plants).
- Your Plant: Start with a healthy, well-hydrated plant. Some adapt easier than others.
Choosing the Right Plants to Start With
Not all plants take to LECA immediately. It’s best to begin with plants that are resilient and already enjoy moist conditions.
- Excellent Starters: Pothos, Philodendron, Monstera, Aglaonema, Snake Plant, ZZ Plant.
- Good Candidates: Some Orchids (like Phalaenopsis), Peace Lily, Spider Plant, Chinese Evergreen.
- Avoid for Now: True succulents and cacti, fuzzy-leaved plants like African Violets, and any plant that prefers to dry out completely.
Step-by-Step: Transferring Your Plant to LECA
This is the most critical part. Patience is key, as your plant will need time to adjust to its new home.
Step 1: Prepare Your Plant
Water your plant a day or two before the transfer. Gently remove it from its soil pot. Be as gentle as possible to minimize root damage.
Step 2: Clean the Roots Thoroughly
This is non-negotiable. You must remove every bit of soil from the roots. Run them under lukewarm water and use your fingers to gently massage the soil away. Any soil left behind can rot and cause problems later.
Step 3: Soak and Rinse the LECA
Place your dry LECA balls in a large bucket. Cover them with water and let them soak for at least a few hours, preferably overnight. This ensures they are fully saturated. Drain and give them a final rinse.
Step 4: Pot Up the Plant
Place a layer of pre-soaked LECA in the bottom of your net pot. Position your plant’s roots inside and carefully fill in around them with more LECA, gently tapping the pot to settle the balls. The stem base should sit just above the LECA line.
Step 5: Add the Nutrient Solution
Mix your hydroponic fertilizer with water according to the bottle’s instructions. Check and adjust the pH. Pour the solution into your outer cache pot until it reaches about 1/3 of the way up the net pot. The LECA will wick the moisture upward.
Step 6: The Initial Adjustment Period
Place your plant in bright, indirect light. For the first few weeks, you may need to top up with plain pH-balanced water more frequently, as the plant develops new “water roots” adapted to LECA. Old soil roots may die back a bit; just pluck them out if they do.
Ongoing Maintenance and Care
Caring for plants in LECA is different from soil care, but often simpler once you get the hang of it.
Watering and Nutrient Refresh
Let the nutrient solution level drop almost completely before refilling. Every 2-4 weeks, you should do a complete flush. Remove the net pot, discard the old nutrient solution, rinse the outer pot, and refill with fresh nutrient mix. This prevents mineral buildup.
Dealing with Algae and Salt Buildup
Algae can grow on LECA exposed to light. Use opaque outer pots and flush regularly. White crust on the LECA is mineral salts; this is why regular flushing is so important. You can also rinse the top layer of LECA occasionally.
Supporting Your Plants
Plants in LECA don’t have heavy soil to anchor them. Use stakes or moss poles inserted deep into the pot to provide support for larger plants like Monsteras. The LECA will hold the pole firmly in place.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with the best care, you might encounter a few hiccups. Here’s how to fix them.
- Yellowing Leaves: Often a sign of shock during transition or a nutrient issue. Ensure your fertilizer is complete and your pH is correct.
- Root Rot: Caused by the solution level being too high. Always keep the water line below the net pot, allowing the LECA to wick moisture up. The roots should not be constantly submerged.
- Stunted Growth: Check the temperature. Roots in water can get chilly. Also, ensure you’re using enough fertilizer—plants in LECA rely completely on the nutrient solution you provide.
- Persistent Wilting: The plant might be struggling to take up water. Try using just plain pH-balanced water for a week or two to see if it recovers before reintroducing nutrients.
FAQ: Your LECA Questions Answered
Can I use any plant fertilizer for LECA?
No, you cannot. Soil fertilizers lack certain elements and are not formulated for direct root uptake in a semi-hydroponic system. You must use a hydroponic fertilizer.
How often do I change the LECA balls?
LECA is reusable almost indefinitely. With regular flushing, you can use the same clay balls for years. Just give them a good soak in a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution or boil them if you’re moving a sick plant to reuse them.
Is growing plants in LECA cheaper than soil?
The startup cost is higher due to the need for pots, fertilizer, and pH supplies. However, over time, you save because LECA doesn’t decompose and you use less water and fertilizer due to the efficient system.
Why are my plant’s roots turning brown?
Roots in water often develop a brown tint, which is normal. They might also be stained by the nutrients. Focus on texture—mushy, slimy roots mean rot. Firm, tan/brown roots are usually healthy in a LECA setup.
Can I put multiple plants in one LECA pot?
Yes, you can, as long as they have similar light and nutrient requirements. Ensure the pot is large enough to accommodate all their root systems without becomming overcrowded.
Transitioning your plants to LECA requires a bit of upfront effort, but the long-term benefits are significant. You’ll gain more control over your plant’s nutrition, reduce pest issues, and enjoy a cleaner indoor garden. Start with one easy plant, follow these steps, and soon you’ll have a thriving collection growing in these versatile clay balls. Remember, the key is a good root clean, the right nutrients, and consistent flushing to prevent problems.