How To Prune Espalier Apple Tree

Learning how to prune espalier apple tree is a key skill for any gardener with one of these beautiful, space-saving forms. It’s not as hard as it looks, and with this guide, you’ll know exactly what to do and when to do it. Proper pruning keeps your tree healthy, encourages fruit production, and maintains its elegant, flat shape against a wall or fence.

An espalier is a fruit tree trained to grow in a flat, two-dimensional plane. It’s a fantastic way to grow apples in small gardens or to create a living fence. The pruning process is simply about guiding that growth, cutting away what you don’t want and encouraging what you do.

This main pruning guide covers the two crucial times of year you’ll be working on your tree. Summer pruning controls growth and encourages fruiting spurs. Winter pruning shapes the structure and deals with stronger growth.

Essential Tools You’ll Need

Start with the right gear. Clean, sharp tools make clean cuts that heal fast, protecting your tree from disease.

Sharp Bypass Secateurs/Pruners: For most small cuts up to about ¾ inch thick.
Long-Handled Loppers: For thicker branches, up to about 1.5 inches.
A Folding Pruning Saw: For the rare, larger cut on an established tree.
Gardening Gloves: To protect your hands.
Isopropyl Alcohol or a Disinfectant Spray: To sterilize your tool blades between cuts, especially if you suspect any disease.

When to Prune: Summer vs. Winter

Timing is everything. Each season has a different purpose.

Summer Pruning: Done in late July or August. This is your main session for shape control. You’ll cut back new, soft growth to encourage the formation of fruit buds for next year.
Winter Pruning: Done when the tree is fully dormant, usually between late fall and early spring. This is for structural work, removing dead wood, and thinning out congested areas. Avoid pruning in severe frost.

Step-by-Step Summer Pruning Guide

Summer pruning is about managing the current season’s soft, green growth. Your goal is to let sunlight into the structure and turn this new growth into fruiting spurs.

Step 1: Identify the New Growth

Look for the soft, flexible shoots that have grown since spring. They are usually a lighter green and come from the main horizontal branches (the tiers or “arms”).

Step 2: Cut Back Lateral Shoots

Find shoots growing directly from the main horizontal arms. Count 3 leaves from the base of this new shoot (not counting the small cluster at the very base). Make your cut just above the third leaf. This redirects the tree’s energy into the buds at the base of these leaves, which will develop into fruit buds.

Step 3: Tackle Shoots from Upright Leaders

If you are still extending the height of your espalier, you’ll have a central upright leader. From this, new side shoots will emerge to form new tiers. Select the strongest two on opposite sides for your next horizontal arms and tie them in. Prune any other shoots from the leader back to just one leaf.

Step 4: Remove Any Misplaced Growth

Any shoots growing directly towards the wall or fence, or straight out towards you, should be removed completely. Cut them back to their point of origin. This keeps the tree flat.

Step-by-Step Winter Pruning Guide

Winter pruning happens on a bare tree. You can see the skeleton clearly, which makes it ideal for structural adjustments.

Step 1: Remove the Three D’s

Start by cutting out any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged wood. Cut back to healthy wood, making sure you sterilize your tools after any diseased cuts.

Step 2: Thin Out Congested Spurs

Over years, the short fruiting spurs can become too crowded. Thin them out by removing some of the older, woodier spurs to allow light and air in. This improves fruit quality and reduces disease risk.

Step 3: Shape the Main Structure

Look at the overall shape. If any of the main horizontal branches have grown too long or out of line, you can shorten them now. Cut back to a bud facing in the direction you want growth to continue. Also, check all ties and loosen any that are cutting into the bark.

Step 4: Manage the Upright Leader

Once your espalier has reached it’s desired height, you can keep the central leader in check. In winter, prune the leading upright shoot back to a bud, leaving about an inch of the previous year’s growth. This prevents it from getting taller.

Training a New Espalier Tree

Starting from a maiden (one-year-old) tree? The first few years are about building the framework.

Year 1, Winter: Plant the tree and cut the main stem to just above the height of your first wire. Ensure there are at least two good buds below your cut.
Year 1, Summer: As the top buds grow, select the strongest top shoot as the new leader. Choose the two strongest side shoots and gently tie them horizontally along the bottom wire at a 45-degree angle. Remove other strong shoots.
Year 2, Winter: Lower the two side branches to fully horizontal and tie them. Cut back the central leader again to just above the height of your second wire.
Repeat this process each year until you have the number of tiers you want.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Pruning at the Wrong Time: Heavy pruning in summer can weaken the tree. Major structural cuts in winter are best.
Making Flush Cuts: Don’t cut flush to the trunk or a branch. Always cut just above a bud or the branch collar (the slight swelling where a branch meets another), which helps the wound heal properly.
Letting It Get Too Thick: Neglecting summer pruning leads to a bushy, shaded tree that produces less fruit and is prone to pests.
Using Dull Tools: This makes ragged tears in the bark that invite infection. Keep those blades sharp.

Aftercare Following Pruning

A little care after pruning helps your tree recover and thrive.

Watering: Give the tree a good drink after pruning, especially after summer pruning.
Feeding: In early spring, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around the base to support new growth.
Mulching: Apply a layer of well-rotted compost or mulch around the base (but not touching the trunk) to retain moisture and supress weeds.

FAQ: Your Espalier Pruning Questions Answered

How do you prune an overgrown espalier apple tree?

Renovation takes time. Don’t correct everything in one year. Start in winter, removing dead wood and the most badly placed branches. Over the next 2-3 winters, gradually thin and retrain branches back to the framework. Resume strict summer pruning to regain control.

What is the best month to prune espalier apples?

For summer pruning, late July through August is ideal. For winter pruning, any time during dormancy from late fall to early spring is fine, but a dry day in late winter is often best.

Can you prune espalier apple trees in the fall?

It’s not ideal. Pruning in early fall can stimulate new growth that won’t harden off before winter, making it vulnerable to frost damage. It’s safer to wait for full dormancy.

How do you encourage fruit on an espalier?

Consistent summer pruning is the key. By cutting back new lateral shoots to three leaves, you direct the tree’s energy into forming fruit buds instead of more leafy growth. Good sunlight and annual feeding also helps alot.

Pruning an espalier apple tree is an annual ritual that connects you to your garden’s rhythm. With these clear steps for summer and winter, you can confidently maintain your tree’s health and beauty. Remember, each cut is a decision that guides future growth. Take your time, observe how your tree responds each season, and you’ll enjoy both the process and the plentiful, homegrown apples it brings.