Burgundy Princess Philodendron

If you’re looking for a houseplant that makes a dramatic statement without being difficult, the burgundy princess philodendron is a perfect choice. With its elegant deep red foliage, this plant brings a rich, sophisticated color to any room in your home.

It’s a member of the popular Philodendron genus, known for being adaptable and forgiving. The ‘Princess’ part of its name is fitting, as the new leaves unfurl in a stunning deep burgundy or red, sometimes maturing to a darker green with beautiful variegation. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your plant thriving.

This plant is a cultivated variety, prized for its stunning coloration. It’s a self-heading philodendron, meaning it grows in a more upright, clumping form rather than as a long vine. This makes it ideal for tabletops or as a floor plant in a bright corner.

What Makes the Foliage So Special?

The star of the show is, without a doubt, the leaves. They are typically heart-shaped or elongated, with a firm, almost leathery texture.

New Growth: Emerging leaves are a vibrant, deep red or burgundy. This is when the color is most intense.
Mature Leaves: As leaves age, they often transition to a darker, bronzy green but usually retain reddish undersides or veins.
Variegation: Some plants may display splashes or marbling of lighter green, cream, or even pink, making each leaf unique.

Burgundy Princess vs. Other Red Philodendrons

It’s easy to get confused! Here’s how to tell it apart from similar plants:

Philodendron ‘Imperial Red’: Has broader, larger leaves and tends to stay more uniformly red-burgundy as it matures.
Philodendron ‘Black Cardinal’: Foliage is a much darker, almost blackish burgundy from the start.
Philodendron ‘Rojo Congo’: Similar to Imperial Red, with very large, glossy leaves that emerge copper-red.

The Burgundy Princess often has more pronounced leaf shape and potential for variegation compared to these others.

Your Complete Care Guide

Caring for this plant is straightforward once you understand its basic needs. It’s not a fussy plant, but paying attention to a few key areas will ensure it shows off its best colors.

Finding the Perfect Light

Light is the most important factor for maintaining that beautiful red foliage. Too little light, and the plant will revert to mostly green leaves and become leggy.

Ideal: Bright, indirect light is perfect. An east-facing window is excellent. A few feet back from a south or west window (behind a sheer curtain) also works well.
Signs of Too Much Light: Leaves may develop bleached, scorched patches or yellow. The rich color can also fade.
Signs of Too Little Light: New leaves are smaller and mostly green. Growth slows down significantly, and the stems stretch awkwardly toward the light source.

Watering: The Balance to Strike

Overwatering is the quickest way to harm your philodendron. They like to partially dry out between drinks.

Check the Soil: Before watering, stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Water Thoroughly: Water slowly and evenly until you see it running out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
Let it Drain: Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.
Adjust for Seasons: Water more frequently in the warm, bright growing season (spring/summer). Water much less in fall and winter when growth slows.

Soil and Potting Needs

A well-draining potting mix is non-negotiable. A standard houseplant mix is a good start, but you can improve it.

Simple Recipe: Mix 2 parts regular potting soil with 1 part perlite and 1 part orchid bark or coco coir. This creates an airy mix that holds moisture but drains excess water quickly.
Pot Choice: Always use a pot with drainage holes. Terracotta pots are great because they allow the soil to dry more evenly through their porous walls.
When to Repot: Repot every 1-2 years in spring, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Only go up one pot size (1-2 inches larger in diameter).

Temperature and Humidity Preferences

As a tropical plant, it enjoys warmth and appreciates humidity.

Temperature: Keep it in a room between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.
Humidity: Average home humidity (around 40-50%) is often tolerated. For lusher growth and to prevent brown leaf tips, aim for higher humidity.
- Group plants together.
- Use a pebble tray filled with water placed under the pot.
- Run a humidifier nearby, especially in dry winter months.

Feeding Your Plant for Vibrant Growth

Fertilizer provides the nutrients needed for those stunning new red leaves.

Type: Use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 or 20-20-20).
Schedule: Feed once a month during the active growing season (spring and summer).
Method: Dilute the fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the bottle. Water with it as you normally would.
Winter Rest: Stop fertilizing in late fall and winter. The plant isn’t growing much and won’t use the nutrients, which can then build up and harm the roots.

Pruning and Maintenance

A little regular maintenance keeps your plant looking its best and encourages healthy, bushy growth.

How to Prune Correctly

Pruning is simple. You mainly do it to remove old, yellowing leaves or to control the plant’s shape.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears.
Identify the leaf you want to remove.
Follow the leaf stem (petiole) back to the main stem or soil line.
Make a clean cut as close as possible without damaging the main stem.
You can also trim any excessively long or awkward stems to encourage branching from the base.

Cleaning Those Beautiful Leaves

Dust buildup on the leaves blocks light and can attract pests. Gently wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth about once a month. Support the leaf from underneath with your hand to avoid tearing it. You can also give the plant a lukewarm shower occasionally to rinse off dust.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even easy plants can have issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems with your burgundy princess philodendron.

Yellowing Leaves

This is the most common issue and has a few potential causes.

Overwatering: This is the #1 cause. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well. Let the soil dry out more between waterings.
Underwatering: While less common, consistently bone-dry soil can also cause yellow leaves, usually starting at the edges.
Natural Aging: It’s normal for the oldest, bottom leaves to occasionally turn yellow and die off as the plant grows.

Brown Leaf Edges or Tips

This is usually related to humidity or water quality.

Low Humidity: Increase humidity around the plant using the methods described earlier.
Tap Water: Chemicals like fluoride and chlorine, or salts in tap water, can cause tip burn. Try using filtered water, rainwater, or leave tap water out overnight before using it.
Over-fertilizing: Salt buildup from to much fertilizer can burn the roots and leaf edges. Flush the soil with plain water every few months.

Pests to Watch For

Healthy plants resist pests well, but it’s good to be vigilant. Check under leaves and along stems regularly.

Spider Mites: Tiny, web-spinning pests that cause stippling on leaves. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or use insecticidal soap.
Mealybugs: Look like small bits of white cotton in leaf axils. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Scale: Appear as small, brown, bumpy shells stuck to stems and leaves. Scrape them off gently or use horticultural oil.

Isolate any affected plant immediately to prevent the pests from spreading to your other houseplants.

Propagation: How to Make More Plants

Sharing your burgundy princess philodendron is easy through propagation. The best method is stem cuttings.

Choose a Healthy Stem: Select a stem with at least 2-3 leaves and a few visible nodes (the little bumps on the stem where leaves and roots grow from).
Make the Cut: Using clean shears, cut just below a node. Your cutting should be 4-6 inches long.
Prepare the Cutting: Remove the leaf from the bottom node. This is where roots will form.
Rooting Medium: You can root in water or moist sphagnum moss/perlite mix.
- Water: Place the cutting in a glass of water, ensuring the node is submerged. Change the water weekly. Roots should appear in 2-4 weeks.
- Moss/Perlite: Place the cutting in a small pot with the moist medium. Cover with a plastic bag to create humidity. Keep it warm and bright.
Potting Up: Once roots are at least an inch long (for water propagation), pot the cutting into a small pot with well-draining soil. Care for it as you would a mature plant.

Styling Your Home with Burgundy Princess

The rich color of this plant makes it a versatile design element. Its deep red foliage complements many color schemes.

Modern & Minimalist: Place it in a simple, neutral-colored pot (white, cream, gray, black) to let the leaves be the bold focal point.
Bohemian: A textured basket or a colorful, patterned ceramic pot enhances its organic, lush feel.
Dark Academia: The burgundy tones pair perfectly with dark walls, wood furniture, and bookshelves.
Where to Place It: Use it as a centerpiece on a dining table, add height to a plant shelf, or let it fill an empty corner in your living room or bedroom. It’s size makes it very flexible.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is the burgundy princess philodendron toxic to pets?

Yes, like all philodendrons, it contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans. It can cause oral irritation and stomach upset. Keep it out of reach of curious pets and children.

Why are the new leaves on my plant green instead of red?

Insufficient light is the most likely reason. Move your plant to a brighter location with plenty of indirect light. New growth should then return to its expected burgundy color. Sometimes, very mature plants may also produce slightly less colorful leaves.

How often should I repot my burgundy princess?

Every 1 to 2 years is typical. The best time is in the spring. Signs it needs repotting include roots growing out the drainage holes, water running straight through the pot (meaning it’s root-bound), or slowed growth despite proper care.

Can I grow this plant in low light?

It will survive in low light, but it will not thrive. Growth will be very slow, leaves will be smaller and almost entirely green, and the stems will become long and leggy as they reach for light. For the best color and form, bright indirect light is essential.

What’s the difference between philodendron burgundy princess and pink princess?

They are different cultivars. The Pink Princess (Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’) has dramatic variegation with bright pink patches on dark green leaves. The Burgundy Princess typically has solid or subtly variegated deep red to burgundy new growth, maturing to a darker green. Their care is very similar, but the Pink Princess often requires even brighter light to maintain its pink coloration.

Should I mist my plant for humidity?

Misting is not very effective for raising long-term humidity and can sometimes promote fungal leaf diseases if water sits on the leaves to long. Using a pebble tray or a humidifier is a more reliable and effective method for increasing humidity around your plant.

The burgundy princess philodendron is a truly rewarding plant to have in your collection. Its stunning elegant deep red foliage provides year-round interest with minimal fuss. By providing the right balance of light, water, and warmth, you’ll be able to enjoy its regal beauty for many years to come. This plant proves that you don’t need a green thumb to enjoy a touch of the tropics indoors—just a little bit of knowledge and consistent care.