What Eats Marigolds

If you’ve ever walked out to your garden to find your bright marigolds chewed and tattered, you’re not alone. Many gardeners ask, what eats marigolds, surprised that these pest-repellent plants can become a meal themselves. While marigolds are famous for keeping some bugs away, a few persistent garden pests see them as a tasty target. Let’s look at who’s causing the damage and, more importantly, how you can stop them.

It’s a common misconception that marigolds are completely pest-proof. Their strong scent does deter many insects, like aphids and whiteflies, from the general area. However, several common garden pests have developed a tolerance or even a preference for marigold foliage and flowers. The damage can range from chewed leaves and petals to completely stripped stems. Identifying the culprit is your first step toward an effective solution.

1. Slugs and Snails

These are perhaps the most frequent offenders in many gardens. They feed at night and on cloudy, damp days, leaving behind large, irregular holes in leaves and a tell-tale silvery slime trail. Young marigold seedlings are especially vulnerable and can be devoured overnight.

Identification: Ragged holes, slime trails on leaves/soil, damage appears overnight.
Favorite Parts: Tender young leaves and petals.

2. Japanese Beetles

These metallic green-and-copper beetles are voracious eaters. They skeletonize leaves, eating the tissue between the veins so that only a lace-like framework remains. They often feed in groups, making the damage appear suddenly and severely.

Identification: Skeletonized leaves, clusters of shiny beetles visible during the day.
Favorite Parts: Flower petals and leaf tissue.

3. Spider Mites

These are tiny arachnids, almost invisible to the naked eye, that suck sap from the undersides of leaves. The first sign is often a stippled, dusty, or bronzed look on the foliage. Severe infestations leave fine webbing over the plant.

Identification: Yellow stippling on leaves, fine silk webbing, leaves may look dry.
Favorite Parts: Undersides of leaves, especially in hot, dry conditions.

4. Caterpillars (Various Types)

Several caterpillar species, like cabbage loopers, budworms, and armyworms, will munch on marigolds. They create holes of varying sizes and often leave behind dark green droppings (frass) on the leaves.

Identification: Chewed edges or holes, visible caterpillars, black/green frass.
Favorite Parts: Leaves, flower buds, and young stems.

5. Aphids

While marigolds often repel aphids from other plants, stressed marigolds can sometimes become infested. These small, soft-bodied insects cluster on new growth and undersides of leaves, sucking sap and causing distortion.

Identification: Clusters of tiny green, black, or red bugs, sticky honeydew residue, distorted growth.
Favorite Parts: New shoots and flower buds.

6. Rabbits and Deer

In areas with wildlife, rabbits and deer can be the culprits. Rabbits make clean, sharp cuts on stems and leaves, often eating plants down to the ground. Deer tear at plants, leaving ragged edges and taller damage.

Identification: Clean-cut stems (rabbits), ragged tears on taller plants (deer), tracks in soil.
Favorite Parts: Entire young plants, tender shoots.

7. Thrips

These minute, slender insects rasp at petal and leaf cells, causing silvery streaks, white patches, and distorted growth. Flowers may look bleached or fail to open properly.

Identification: Streaked, silvery petals, deformed flowers/leaves.
Favorite Parts: Flower petals and young foliage.

8. Earwigs

Earwigs are nocturnal feeders that can be both beneficial (eating aphids) and problematic. They chew on petals and leaves, creating irregular holes. They often hide in damp, dark places during the day.

Identification: Irregular holes in petals, presence in flowers after dark.
Favorite Parts: Delicate flower petals.

How to Protect Your Marigolds: A Step-by-Step Guide

Once you know what you’re dealing with, you can choose the right defense. Always start with the least toxic method and escalate only if needed. A healthy garden with diverse plants is your best long-term strategy.

Step 1: Correct Identification

Inspect your plants carefully. Look at the time of day damage occurs, the pattern of the damage, and check the undersides of leaves. Use a magnifying glass for tiny pests like spider mites. Correct ID saves you time and protects beneficial insects.

Step 2: Cultural and Physical Controls

These methods change the environment to make it less inviting for pests.

Hand-Picking: For large pests like Japanese beetles, caterpillars, and slugs (at night with a flashlight), hand-picking is very effective. Drop them into soapy water.
Barriers: Use copper tape around containers to deter slugs/snails. Install floating row covers over seedlings to protect them from beetles and caterpillars. For rabbits, small fencing is often necessary.
Traps: Set out shallow dishes of beer sunk into the soil for slugs and snails. Use pheromone traps for Japanese beetles, but place them far from your garden to lure them away.
Water Spray: A strong blast of water from a hose can dislodge aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Do this in the morning so plants dry quickly.
Garden Hygiene: Remove plant debris and weeds where pests hide and breed. Keep the area around your marigolds clean.

Step 3: Encourage Beneficial Insects

Nature provides its own pest control. Attract these helpers to your garden.

Plant nectar-rich flowers like dill, fennel, and yarrow to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps that eat aphids and caterpillars.
Provide a water source, like a shallow birdbath with stones.
Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which kill good and bad bugs alike.

Step 4: Use Organic Pesticides as a Last Resort

If infestations are severe, turn to targeted organic options.

Insecticidal Soap or Neem Oil: Effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, thrips, and spider mites. Must contact the pest directly. Apply in the early evening to avoid harming pollinators.
Diatomaceous Earth (DE): A fine powder that dehydrates slugs, snails, and crawling insects. Sprinkle around the base of plants. Reapply after rain. Be sure to use food-grade DE and wear a mask when applying.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that specifically targets caterpillars. It is harmless to other insects, pets, and people.

Step 5: Deterrents for Larger Animals

For rabbits and deer, you need different tactics.

Fencing: A 2-foot high chicken wire fence buried a few inches deep stops rabbits. For deer, fencing needs to be 8 feet tall or use two parallel shorter fences.
Repellents: Commercial or homemade repellents (like those with egg or garlic) can work but must be reapplied frequently, especially after rain.
Companion Planting: While not foolproof, planting strong-smelling herbs like garlic or onions nearby can sometimes make the area less appealing.

Preventing Future Problems

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, as the old saying goes. Building a resilient garden ecosystem is your best long-term defense against any pest, including those that eat marigolds.

Choose the Right Location and Soil

Healthy plants resist pests better. Marigolds need full sun (at least 6 hours) and well-draining soil. Crowded, shaded, or waterlogged plants become stressed and more susceptible to infestation. Amend your soil with compost before planting to provide nutrients.

Practice Crop Rotation

If you plant marigolds in the same spot year after year, soil-borne pests can build up. Rotate your planting locations within your garden beds whenever possible. This simple step disrupts pest life cycles.

Water Smartly

Water the soil, not the leaves. Damp foliage encourages fungal diseases and attracts pests like slugs. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation at the base of the plants keeps leaves dry and delivers water right to the roots where its needed.

Inspect Plants Regularly

Make a habit of checking your marigolds every few days. Look under leaves, inside flowers, and along stems. Early detection of a few pests allows for easy hand-picking or a spray of water before the problem becomes an outbreak. Catching things early is half the battle.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Sometimes, our well-intentioned actions can make pest problems worse. Here are a few pitfalls to steer clear of.

Over-fertilizing: Too much nitrogen creates lush, soft growth that is incredibly attractive to aphids and other sucking insects. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Overusing broad-spectrum insecticides: These kill everything, including the beneficial insects that are your natural pest controllers. This can lead to a worse rebound infestation.
Ignoring the soil health: Healthy soil grows healthy plants. Don’t just focus on what’s above ground; feed the soil with organic matter.
Planting to densely: Good air circulation helps prevent fungal issues and makes plants less inviting to some pests. Give your marigolds room to breathe.

FAQ: Your Marigold Pest Questions Answered

Are marigolds really pest resistant?

Yes, but with an important caveat. Marigolds are excellent at repelling certain pests (like nematodes in the soil and some flying insects) from themselves and nearby plants. However, they are not immune, and the pests listed above have adapted or are undeterred by their scent.

What is eating my marigolds at night?

This is most likely slugs, snails, earwigs, or caterpillars. Go out after dark with a flashlight to catch them in the act. Look for slime trails (slugs/snails) or check inside the flowers (earwigs).

What can I spray on my marigolds for bugs?

Start with a strong spray of water. For persistent issues, insecticidal soap or neem oil are effective, low-toxicity options. Always test a small area first and apply in the evening to protect bees.

Do rabbits and deer eat marigolds?

They can, especially if other food sources are scarce. Rabbits are more likely to eat young seedlings, while deer may browse on established plants. They tend to avoid strongly scented marigolds if other tastier plants are available, but they are not a reliable deterrent.

Why are my marigold leaves turning yellow and have holes?

Yellowing can be a sign of overwatering, poor drainage, or a nutrient issue. Holes almost always indicate a chewing pest. Combine the two, and you likely have a stressed plant being attacked by pests. Check soil moisture and inspect for insects.

How do I get rid of slugs on my marigolds naturally?

Hand-pick at night, set beer traps, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around plants, or create barriers with copper tape. Encouraging ground beetles and birds to your garden also helps with long-term control.

Seeing your marigolds damaged by pests can be frustrating, but it’s a solvable problem. By identifying the specific culprit and using a combination of smart gardening practices, physical barriers, and natural remedies, you can protect your plants. Remember, the goal isn’t a completely sterile garden, but a balanced one where your marigolds can thrive with minimal interference. With these strategies, you can enjoy their cheerful blooms all season long.