What Is Eating My Rose Bush

If you’re noticing holes, missing leaves, or damaged buds on your prized plants, you’re likely asking, “what is eating my rose bush?” It’s a frustrating sight for any gardener. This guide will help you identify the culprit by the clues they leave behind and show you how to stop them.

Rose pests leave distinct signs. By looking closely at the damage, you can often figure out who’s to blame before you even see them. Let’s look at the most common offenders and the specific problems they cause.

This section breaks down the classic damage patterns. Match what you see in your garden to find your suspect.

Chewed Leaves and Skeletonized Foliage

When leaves look like lace or are completely gone, think of chewing insects. These pests are often easy to spot.

Japanese Beetles: These metallic pests are notorious. They eat the tissue between leaf veins, leaving leaves skeletonized. You’ll usually see them clustered in groups during the day.
Rose Slugs (Sawfly Larvae): These aren’t true slugs. They’re green larvae that skeletonize leaves from the underside, leaving a thin, translucent layer behind. The damage can look like brown paper.
Caterpillars: Various types, like the rose budworm, will munch large, irregular holes in leaves and buds. Look for dark droppings (frass) on leaves below.

Holes in Buds and Flowers

Damage to the blooms is especially disheartening. Two pests are usually responsible.

Rose Budworms: These small caterpillars bore into tight buds, preventing them from opening. You might see a tiny hole at the base of the bud and frass nearby.
Fuller Rose Beetles: These weevils chew notched holes in petal edges. They feed at night and hide during the day, so you might only see the damage.

Distorted Growth and Sucking Damage

Not all pests chew. Some suck plant juices, causing leaves to curl or stunt.

Aphids: Tiny green, red, or black insects clustered on new buds and stems. They cause sticky honeydew residue and can lead to sooty mold. Leaves may curl or yellow.
Thrips: Extremely tiny, slender insects that rasp at petals and leaves. Buds may not open, or petals look browned and bruised at the edges. Flowers appear streaked.
Spider Mites: Nearly microscopic pests that cause stippling (tiny yellow dots) on leaves. Leaves may turn bronze, dry up, and drop. Look for fine webbing on the undersides.

Stem and Cane Damage

Damage to the main structure of the bush is serious and often points to larger pests or disease.

Rose Borers: Clearwing moth larvae bore into canes, causing canes to wilt and die back from the tip. Look for a small hole near the base of the wilted area.
Deer and Rabbits: Deer tear at canes and leaves, leaving ragged ends. Rabbits make clean, angled cuts on young, tender stems. Deer damage is usually higher up.

How to Confirm Your Suspect

Grab a magnifying glass and inspect your plant closely, especially early morning or at dusk. Check the undersides of leaves. Look for the pests themselves, their eggs, or their droppings. Setting out sticky traps can also help catch flying insects like thrips.

Effective Control Strategies

Once you know the pest, you can choose the right response. Always start with the least toxic method.

1. Physical and Mechanical Controls

These methods are immediate and have no environmental impact.

Hand-Picking: For beetles and caterpillars, drop them into soapy water. Do this in the early morning when they’re less active.
Strong Water Spray: A blast from your hose can dislodge aphids, mites, and rose slugs. Repeat every few days.
Pruning: Remove and destroy badly infested leaves or canes. For borers, cut the affected cane back below the borer hole until you see healthy white pith.
Barriers: Use floating row covers to protect plants from beetles and moths. For deer and rabbits, fencing is often the only reliable solution.

2. Biological Controls

Encourage nature’s pest patrol to visit your garden.

Plant nectar-rich flowers to attract beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.
Apply horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps, which smother soft-bodied pests like aphids and mites without harming most beneficials. Be sure to coat the leaf undersides.
For soil-dwelling grubs (which become beetles), consider beneficial nematodes applied to the soil.

3. Targeted Chemical Controls

Use these as a last resort and always choose the most specific product.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that targets only caterpillars, like budworms, without hurting other insects.
Spinosad: A natural substance derived from soil bacteria effective against thrips, caterpillars, and sawfly larvae (rose slugs). It’s gentle on many beneficials when applied at dusk.
Systemic Insecticides: These are absorbed by the plant. Use them sparingly for persistent problems like borers, as they can also affect pollinators if applied to flowers.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

A healthy rose is more resistant to pests. Follow these steps to build a strong plant.

Right Plant, Right Place: Plant roses where they get at least 6 hours of sun and have good air circulation to reduce pest-friendly humidity.
Water Wisely: Water at the base of the plant, not overhead, to keep foliage dry and prevent disease that weakens plants.
Feed Appropriately: Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Too much nitrogen promotes soft, sappy growth that aphids love.
Keep it Clean: Regularly remove fallen leaves and debris from around the base of your roses to eliminate overwintering sites for pests and diseases.
Inspect Regularly: Make weekly pest checks part of your gardening routine. Catching a problem early makes it much easier to manage.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is making holes in my rose leaves?

Holes are typically caused by chewing insects. Japanese beetles, rose slugs, and various caterpillars are the most common culprits. Look for the pest on or near the damaged leaves to confirm.

What eats rose buds before they open?

Rose budworms (caterpillars) bore into buds. Thrips can also damage buds, causing them to distort or fail to open. Deer may also eat the buds right off the plant.

How do I stop bugs from eating my roses naturally?

Start with physical removal (hand-picking, water spray). Encourage beneficial insects by planting diverse flowers. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil for soft-bodied pests. Healthy soil and proper plant care are your best long-term defense.

Why are my rose leaves turning yellow with spots?

Yellowing with spots can be from sucking insects like spider mites (which cause stippling) or from fungal diseases like black spot. Check the leaf undersides for mites or webbing to rule out pests.

Figuring out what is eating your rose bush is the first and most important step. By playing garden detective and matching the damage to the pest, you can choose a control method that’s effective and proportionate. With careful observation and a focus on growing healthy, resilient plants, you can minimize damage and enjoy your beautiful roses all season long. Remember, a few holes in the leaves is a sign of a lively garden ecosystem, but now you have the tools to prevent major outbreaks.