Knowing the right time to hill your potatoes is one of the most important skills for a great harvest. If you’re wondering when do you hill potatoes for the best results, you’ve come to the right place. This simple technique protects your tubers from sunlight and supports the plant, leading to more and better potatoes. Let’s break down the perfect timing and method.
Hilling is the process of mounding soil, compost, or mulch around the base of a potato plant as it grows. This buries the developing stems, encouraging them to produce more tubers along their length. It also keeps the potatoes themselves covered, preventing them from turning green and toxic.
When Do You Hill Potatoes
The timing isn’t a single event, but a series of actions tied to your plant’s growth. The key is to watch for specific stages, not specific calendar dates. Weather and variety can cause slight shifts, so visual cues are your best guide.
The First Hilling: The Critical Start
Your first hilling is the most crucial. Perform this task when your potato plants are about 6 to 8 inches tall. At this height, they are sturdy enough to handle the process but still young enough to benefit fully.
Here’s what to look for:
* Stems are 6-8 inches above the soil.
* The plant has a good cluster of leaves.
* You can still easily see the base of the plant.
Why so early? This initial hilling covers any small tubers that may already be forming near the surface. It also stimulates the buried stem to send out more roots and stolons (the underground stems that become potatoes). Waiting to long can expose early tubers to light.
The Second Hilling: Building the Mound
About two to three weeks after the first hilling, check your plants again. They will have grown significantly. It’s time for a second round when there is another 6 to 8 inches of new growth above the previous hill.
Your goals for the second hilling are:
1. To cover any stems that have been exposed since the first hilling.
2. To build a taller, stronger mound for more tuber production.
3. To further stabilize the plant against wind and rain.
This stage often provides the biggest yield boost, as your are creating maximum space for potatoes to form in loose, cool soil.
Optional Third Hilling: For Long-Season Varieties
If you’re growing a late-season potato variety or have a very long growing season, a third hilling might be beneficial. Do this only if the plant continues to grow vigorously and you can mound material without burying too much of the foliage. The plants need plenty of leaves above ground to photosynthesize.
Stop all hilling once plants begin to flower, as this signals that the major tuber set is complete. After flowering, focus shifts to bulking up the existing tubers.
What to Use for Hilling
You have several excellent options for hilling material. The best choice depends on whats available in your garden.
* Loose Garden Soil: The most common material. Ensure it’s loose and free of large clods to avoid damaging stems.
* Compost: A fantastic option that adds nutrients as you hill. Make sure it’s well-finished and not too hot.
* Straw or Hay: Excellent for a “straw potato” method. It’s light, keeps tubers clean, and simplifies harvest. You’ll need a thick layer.
* Weed-Free Mulch: Shredded leaves or other fine mulch can work well to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Avoid using heavy, clay-rich soil that can compact and hinder growth. Also, be careful not to damage the plant’s root zone when pulling soil from between rows.
Step-by-Step Hilling Instructions
Follow these simple steps for perfect hilling everytime.
1. Choose the Right Time of Day: Hill on a calm, overcast day or in the early morning. Avoid hot, sunny periods when plants are stressed.
2. Moisten the Soil: If the soil is very dry, give it a light watering a few hours before. Damp soil holds together better for mounding.
3. Gather Your Material: Have your soil, compost, or mulch in a wheelbarrow or bucket nearby.
4. Mound Gently: Using your hands or a hoe, carefully pull material from between rows up around the base of the plant. Cover the stems until only about 2-3 inches of the top leaves are exposed.
5. Shape the Hill: Form a gentle, sloping mound. Don’t pack it down tightly; keep it loose for good root growth.
6. Water Lightly: After hilling, a light watering helps settle the material and reduces plant shock.
Signs You Hilled Too Late (or Not at All)
Missed the window? You’ll see clear signs in your garden. Green potatoes peeking out of the soil is the most common indicator. These green tubers contain solanine, a natural toxin, and should not be eaten.
Other signs include:
* Plants that are leggy and falling over.
* Fewer potatoes than expected at harvest.
* Tubers with green shoulders or tops, even if the rest is covered.
If you see exposed potatoes, hill immediately to cover them, even if the plant is large. It’s better late than never.
Hilling in Different Growing Setups
The basic principle is the same, but your garden style changes the technique slightly.
* In-Ground Rows: The classic method. Pull soil from the wide alleys between your rows to create mounds.
* Raised Beds: You may need to import extra soil or compost, as you can’t pull from wide pathways. Plan for this at planting time by not filling the bed completely.
* Containers and Grow Bags: As plants grow, simply add more potting mix to the container, unrolling the bag’s sides if possible. This is hilling made easy.
Common Hilling Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.
* Hilling Too Early: If plants are less than 4 inches tall, you risk burying them to deeply and shading out the leaves.
* Using Weedy Soil: You’ll just bury weed seeds right next to your potatoes, creating future problems.
* Damaging Stems: Be gentle. Rough handling can break stems and reduce yield.
* Stopping Too Soon: One hilling is rarely enough. Commit to at least two rounds for a worthwhile harvest.
* Ignoring Weather: Don’t hill right before a heavy rainstorm, as it can wash away your carefully built mound.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many times should you hill potatoes?
Most potato plants benefit from at least two hillings, sometimes three. The first at 6-8 inches tall, the second a few weeks later, and a third only if growth is very vigorous before flowering.
Can you hill potatoes with mulch instead of soil?
Absolutely. Straw, hay, or shredded leaves are excellent alternatives. They keep the tubers clean and can make harvesting simpler. Just ensure the layer is thick enough to block all light (usually 6+ inches).
What happens if you don’t hill your potatoes?
You’ll likely get a smaller harvest. Potatoes exposed to light will turn green and become inedible. The plants may also be less stable and produce fewer tubers overall.
Is it too late to hill potatoes if they are flowering?
Yes, it’s generally to late to start hilling once flowering begins. The major tuber set has finished. You can gently cover any exposed green potatoes, but avoid major soil disturbance.
When to stop hilling potatoes?
Stop when the plants start to flower or when you can no longer mound material without burying most of the healthy foliage. The plants need their leaves to feed the growing tubers underneath.
Mastering the timing of hilling transforms your potato patch. By following the plants lead and mounding soil at the right moments, you create the ideal dark, cool environment for tubers to multiply and size up. Grab your hoe, watch for those 6-inch stems, and get ready for your best potato harvest yet.