How To Propagate English Lavender

Learning how to propagate English lavender is a wonderful way to expand your garden for free. This simple step-by-step guide will show you the easiest methods to create new plants from your existing favorites.

Propagation might sound technical, but it’s really just taking a piece of a plant and encouraging it to grow roots. For English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), the most reliable methods are using cuttings or layering. Both are perfect for beginners and have a high success rate. You’ll soon have plenty of new lavender plants to line your walkway or share with friends.

Before you start, you’ll need to gather a few basic supplies. Having everything ready makes the process smooth and enjoyable. You won’t need any special equipment, just a few items from around the home and garden.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Sharp, clean pruning shears or a knife.
Small pots (3-4 inches wide) with drainage holes.
Well-draining potting mix (a blend for cacti or succulents is ideal, or add perlite to regular mix).
A clear plastic bag or a propagation dome.
Rooting hormone powder or gel (optional but very helpful).
A trowel for the layering method.
Watering can with a fine rose.

Choosing the Right Time to Propagate

The best time to take lavender cuttings is in late spring or early summer. At this time, the stems are new and flexible but starting to mature. This stage is called “semi-ripe” or “softwood.”

The plant is actively growing then, so it roots quickly. You can also try in early fall, but spring cuttings have all summer to establish before winter. Avoid taking cuttings when the plant is flowering, as energy is directed to the blooms, not root growth.

Selecting the Perfect Parent Plant

Always start with a healthy, vigorous lavender plant. Look for one with no signs of disease or pests. The stems should be strong and the foliage a silvery-green color.

Choosing a good “parent” ensures your new plants will be robust. Take cuttings from the current season’s growth, avoiding any old, woody stems at the base of the plant. These older stems are much harder to root.

Method 1: Propagating Lavender from Cuttings

This is the most common method. It allows you to produce several new plants from just one stem. Follow these steps closely for the best results.

Identify a healthy, non-flowering stem on your lavender plant. It should be about 4 to 6 inches long.
Using your clean shears, make a clean cut just below a leaf node (the bump where leaves emerge).
Gently strip the leaves from the lower half to two-thirds of the cutting. This is where the roots will form.
If you’re using rooting hormone, dip the bare stem end into the powder or gel, tapping off any excess.
Make a small hole in your pre-moistened potting mix with a pencil. Insert the cutting about 1-2 inches deep, ensuring the stripped portion is buried.
Firm the soil gently around the stem to hold it upright.
Water lightly to settle the soil. You can place several cuttings in one pot, but ensure their leaves don’t touch.
Create a humid environment by placing a clear plastic bag loosely over the pot or using a propagation dome. This prevents the cutting from drying out.

Caring for Your Lavender Cuttings

Place the pot in a warm, bright location, but out of direct, hot sunlight. A windowsill with indirect light is perfect. The key is to maintain humidity without making the soil soggy.

Check the soil every few days; it should feel lightly moist. Condensation on the bag is a good sign. If you see mold, remove the cover for a few hours to increase air flow. After 4 to 6 weeks, test for roots by giving a very gentle tug. If you feel resistance, roots have likely formed.

Method 2: Propagating Lavender by Layering

Layering is even simpler and works with the plant still attached to the mother. It’s great if you only want one or two new plants and have an established lavender in the ground.

In spring, choose a long, flexible stem low down on the plant. Bend it gently toward the ground.
Where the stem touches the soil, scrape a little bark off the underside with your knife. This wound encourages rooting.
Dig a shallow trench about 2 inches deep at that spot. Bury the scraped section of the stem, leaving the leafy tip exposed.
Secure the buried section with a landscape staple or a bent piece of wire. Cover it with soil and place a small rock on top to hold it in place.
Water the area well. Continue to water it as you would the main plant throughout the growing season.
By late summer or early fall, the layered stem should have developed its own roots. You can check by carefully digging around it.
Once rooted, use your shears to sever the new plant from the mother plant. Dig it up carefully and transplant it to its new location.

Potting Up and Aftercare

Once your cuttings have a good root system or your layered plant is ready, it’s time to pot them individually. Use a slightly larger pot with the same well-draining mix. Be gentle when handling the fragile new roots.

Water the new plant thoroughly after repotting. For the first week, keep it in a sheltered, partly shaded spot to recover from the transplant shock. Then, gradually acclimate it to sunnier conditions over a week or two.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overwatering: This is the biggest killer. Lavender hates wet feet. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings.
Using Poor Soil: Heavy, water-retentive soil will cause the stem to rot. Always ensure excellent drainage.
Too Much Sun Too Soon: While mature lavender loves sun, tender cuttings can scorch. Use indirect light during rooting.
Taking Cuttings from Woody Stems: These rarely root. Always select younger, greener growth.
Skipping the Humidity Cover: Cuttings lose water easily. The plastic bag dramatically increases your chances of sucess.

Getting Your New Lavender Plants Established

Whether in a pot or the ground, your young lavender needs a little extra care in its first year. Water it regularly, but always check the soil first. The top inch should be dry before you water again.

In its first spring, you can apply a light, balanced fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds, as they promote leafy growth at the expense of fragrance and flowers. The most important task is pruning. In the second year, begin pruning lightly after flowering to maintain a compact, bushy shape and prevent it from becoming leggy.

FAQ: Your Propagation Questions Answered

Can you grow English lavender from seed?

Yes, but it’s not recommended for beginners. Lavender seeds can be slow and erratic to germinate, often requiring a period of cold stratification. The resulting plants may also vary from the parent. Propagation from cuttings or layering guarantees an identical clone of the plant you love.

How long do lavender cuttings take to root?

Under ideal conditions, you may see roots in as little as 3-4 weeks. Typically, it takes 4 to 6 weeks for a strong enough root system to form before potting on. Be patient and resist the urge to tug on them too often.

What is the best soil mix for lavender propagation?

A mix that drains very quickly is essential. A 50/50 blend of potting soil and perlite or coarse sand works well. You can also use a pre-made succulent or cactus mix, which provides the perfect gritty texture lavender roots adore.

Can I propagate lavender in water?

While some herbs root easily in water, lavender is prone to rot in this medium. The stem often becomes mushy before roots develop. The soil-based method described here is far more reliable and has a much higher success rate for this particular plant.

When can I plant my new lavender outside?

It’s best to wait until your propagated plant has been potted up and grown for a full season. Plant it in the garden the following spring, after all danger of frost has passed. This gives it the strongest possible start to face the elements. Make sure you harden it off by exposing it to outdoor conditions gradually over a week.

Propagating English lavender is a rewarding skill that any gardener can learn. With these simple methods, you can fill your garden with the beautiful sight and soothing scent of lavender. Remember, the keys are good drainage, gentle humidity, and patience. Before you know it, you’ll have a whole collection of these wonderful plants to enjoy for years to come.