Monstera Laniata

If you’re looking for a stunning and somewhat unusual houseplant, the Monstera laniata is a fantastic choice. This rare tropical houseplant offers the classic, beautiful fenestrations of its more common cousins but with a unique and elegant twist.

Often confused with the Monstera adansonii, the laniata has its own distinct charm. Its leaves are typically larger, with more elongated and dramatic holes. Caring for it is very manageable if you understand its tropical origins. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your plant thriving.

Let’s clear up the identity first. The Monstera laniata is a specific species within the Monstera genus. For a long time, it was mislabeled in the houseplant trade. Many plants sold as “Monstera adansonii wide form” are actually the laniata.

The key differences lie in the leaves. A true laniata usually has larger, slightly thicker leaves with more symmetrical and numerous fenestrations (those iconic holes) that often extend all the way to the leaf’s central rib. The texture is also a bit more rugose, or bumpy.

Why Choose a Monstera Laniata?

This plant brings a special look to your indoor jungle. Here’s what makes it stand out:

Visual Impact: The mature leaves are breathtaking, with intricate patterns of holes and splits.
Climbing Habit: It’s a vigorous climber that can create a beautiful, full display on a moss pole or trellis.
Rarity Factor: While becoming more available, it still feels like a special find for plant enthusiasts.
Similar Care: Its needs are very close to other popular Monsteras, making it easy if you already have some experience.

Perfect Light and Placement

Getting the light right is the most important step for healthy growth and those famous fenestrations. In their natural habitat, these plants grow under the dappled light of a forest canopy.

Ideal Light: Bright, indirect light is perfect. An east-facing window is excellent. A spot a few feet back from a south or west window (behind a sheer curtain) also works well.
Signs of Too Much Light: Leaves may turn pale, develop crispy brown edges, or get sunburned with yellow patches.
Signs of Too Little Light: Growth will slow down significantly. New leaves will be smaller, with few or no holes. The stems might also become leggy as the plant stretches for light.

Watering Your Plant Correctly

Overwatering is the fastest way to harm your Monstera laniata. They like moisture but despise soggy, waterlogged roots.

Check the Soil: Before watering, stick your finger about 2-3 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Water Thoroughly: When you water, do so completely until water runs freely out of the drainage holes. This ensures the entire root ball gets moisture.
Let it Drain: Always empty the saucer or cache pot after 15-20 minutes. Never let the plant sit in standing water.
Adjust for Seasons: Water less frequently in the winter when growth slows and the soil takes longer to dry out.

Choosing the Right Soil Mix

A well-draining, airy potting mix is non-negotiable. You can use a high-quality aroid mix or make your own. A simple recipe is:

2 parts regular potting soil
1 part perlite or pumice
1 part orchid bark or coco chips

This combination provides nutrients, retains some moisture, but allows excess water to drain quickly and lets roots breathe.

Humidity and Temperature Needs

As a tropical plant, the Monstera laniata appreciates higher humidity, but it’s often more adaptable than you might think.

Humidity: Aim for 50-60% humidity if possible. You can increase it by using a humidifier, placing the plant on a pebble tray with water, or grouping it with other plants. Brown leaf tips can be a sign the air is too dry.
Temperature: Keep it in a warm spot between 65°F and 85°F (18°C – 29°C). Avoid cold drafts from windows or doors in winter, and keep it away from heating and air conditioning vents.

Feeding and Fertilizing

To support its growth, especially during the spring and summer, your plant will benefit from regular feeding.

Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (like a 20-20-20 formula) diluted to half the recommended strength.
Fertilize every 4-6 weeks during the active growing season (spring through early fall).
Stop fertilizing in the late fall and winter when the plant isn’t actively growing. Too much fertilizer can lead to salt build up in the soil.

Supporting its Climbing Nature

In the wild, Monsteras climb up trees. Providing a support mimics this habit and encourages larger, more mature leaves.

Insert a moss pole, coco coir pole, or wooden plank into the pot at planting or repotting time.
Gently attach the stems to the pole using soft plant ties, velcro tape, or even old nylon stockings. Don’t tie them too tightly.
As the plant grows, its aerial roots will attach to the moist support, helping it climb naturally.

Pruning and Propagation

Pruning helps maintain a bushy shape and control size. The best part? You can use the cuttings to make new plants!

How to Propagate Monstera Laniata in Water:

Using clean scissors or pruners, cut a stem section that includes at least one node (the brown, ring-like bump on the stem) and one healthy leaf.
Place the cutting in a jar of water, ensuring the node is submerged but the leaf is not.
Put it in bright, indirect light and change the water every few days to keep it fresh.
In a few weeks, you should see roots sprouting from the node. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can pot the cutting in soil.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot:

Yellow Leaves: Often a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot has drainage holes.
Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges: Usually caused by low humidity, underwatering, or too much direct sun.
No Fenestrations: The plant likely needs more bright, indirect light. Maturity is also a factor—young plants won’t have many holes.
Pests: Watch for spider mites, mealybugs, or scale. Wipe leaves regularly and treat infestations early with insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Repotting Your Plant

You’ll need to repot every 1-2 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes.

Choose a new pot that is only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Too big a pot holds excess moisture.
Gently remove the plant and loosen the root ball. Trim any black or mushy roots.
Place fresh potting mix in the new pot, position the plant, and fill in around it with more mix.
Water thoroughly and return the plant to its usual spot. It may look droopy for a few days as it adjusts.

FAQ About Monstera Laniata

Is Monstera laniata the same as adansonii?
No, they are different species. Laniata typically has larger, more textured leaves with holes that often reach the midrib, while adansonii leaves are usually smaller and smoother.

How fast does Monstera laniata grow?
In ideal conditions with good light and warmth, it can be a moderately fast grower, especially during the spring and summer months.

Why are the new leaves on my laniata so small?
Insufficient light is the most common cause. Try moving it to a brighter location (without direct sun) to encourage larger, more fenestrated leaves.

Is this plant pet-friendly?
No. Like other Monsteras, the laniata contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. Keep it out of reach of pets.

Can I grow Monstera laniata in just water?
You can propagate cuttings in water indefinitely, but long-term growth and health are better supported in soil, which provides more stable nutrients.

Caring for a Monstera laniata is a rewarding experience. By providing the right balance of light, water, and humidity, you’ll be able to watch this rare tropical houseplant flourish and develop its spectacular, hole-filled leaves. Pay attention to its signals, and don’t be afraid to adjust your care routine as needed. With a little patience, you’ll have a stunning focal point in your home for years to come.