When Is Elephant Garlic Ready To Harvest

Knowing when is elephant garlic ready to harvest is the key to getting those impressively large, flavorful bulbs. If you pick them too early, the cloves won’t have developed properly. But if you wait too long, the bulbs can split open in the ground, making them harder to cure and store. Getting the timing just right ensures you get the best possible harvest from your garden.

Elephant garlic, despite its name, is actually more closely related to the leek. It produces massive bulbs that can weigh over a pound, with just a few large cloves. It has a milder flavor than regular garlic, making it a favorite for roasting or using raw. The growing cycle is similar to traditional garlic, often planted in the fall for a mid-summer harvest.

Unlike many vegetables, you don’t judge elephant garlic’s readiness by the bulb itself, since it’s hidden underground. Instead, you need to become a detective and look for clear signals from the plant above the soil. The most reliable signs come from the leaves and the flower stalk, known as a scape.

The Top Signs Your Elephant Garlic is Mature

Watch for these visual cues starting in mid to late summer, depending on your climate and planting time.

Leaf Browning: The lower leaves will start to turn yellow and then brown, beginning at the tips and moving down. This is the plant beginning to senesce, or die back, and redirect energy into the bulb.
Number of Green Leaves Remaining: A classic guideline is to harvest when about 40-50% of the leaves have browned, but there are still 5 or 6 green leaves at the top. Each green leaf represents a protective wrapper layer around the bulb. More green leaves means better protection for long-term storage.
Scape Development (For Hardneck Types): Most elephant garlic sends up a tall, curly flower scape in early summer. You should snap this off when it makes one full curl to encourage bigger bulb growth. The remaining stalk will become woody and stand upright. When it starts to soften and lean over, it’s a strong indicator of maturity.

The Seasonal Timeline: A General Guide

While leaf clues are best, the calendar gives you a good framework. In most regions with a fall planting, elephant garlic is ready for harvest in mid to late summer. This is typically a few weeks after regular garlic has been harvested.

Warmer Climates (Zones 7-9): Harvest often occurs in June or early July.
Moderate Climates (Zones 5-6): Look for readiness from mid-July through early August.
Cooler Climates (Zones 3-4): Harvest may be in late July or August.

Remember, weather variations from year to year can shift this by a couple weeks, so always trust the plant’s signs over the calendar date.

The “Too Early” vs. “Too Late” Dilemma

Understanding the consequences of bad timing helps you see why it’s so important.

Harvesting Too Early: The bulbs will be small. The cloves won’t have segmented clearly and the papery skins will be underdeveloped. This garlic won’t store well and will shrivel up quickly.

Harvesting Too Late: The bulbs can split open in the ground, especially after a rain. The cloves may actually start to push apart and sprout through their skin. Once the bulb splits, dirt and moisture can get in, leading to rot during curing and very poor storage life. The outer wrapper layers also disintegrate, leaving the bulb unprotected.

Performing a Test Dig

If you’re unsure, do a test dig. Carefully loosen the soil beside one plant and feel for the bulb without pulling it. Gently brush away soil to inspect it.

Is the bulb a good size with clear clove definition under the skin?
Are the outer wrappers thick and papery?
Is the bulb still intact and firm?

If yes to all, you’re likely in the harvest window. If it looks small and smooth, give it another week.

Step-by-Step: How to Harvest Elephant Garlic

Once you’ve decided it’s time, proper technique prevents damage.

Choose the Right Day: Pick a dry day when the soil is not wet or muddy. Wet soil clings to bulbs and increases mold risk.
Loosen the Soil: Use a garden fork or spade to gently loosen the soil about 6-8 inches away from the plant’s stem. Insert the tool and lever it back to lift the soil, breaking the roots’ grip.
Lift, Don’t Pull: Never just yank on the stem. Grasp the plant near its base and gently lift the bulb out of the loosened soil. If it resists, loosen the soil some more with your tool.
Shake Off Soil: Gently remove the large clumps of soil with your hands. Avoid banging the bulbs together, as they bruise easily.
Handle with Care: Place the harvested plants in a single layer in a basket or crate. Avoid piling them high, as the weight can damage the bulbs at the bottom.

The Critical Next Step: Curing for Storage

Harvesting isn’t the finish line. Freshly dug elephant garlic is full of moisture and will rot if stored immediately. Curing is the process of drying it down slowly to prepare it for long-term storage.

Don’t Wash: Brush off excess dirt, but do not wash the bulbs with water.
Find the Right Spot: Lay the plants out in a single layer, or hang them in small bunches. They need a warm, dry, dark, and well-ventilated place. A garage, covered porch, shed, or spare room with a fan works perfectly.
Let Them Dry: Leave them to cure for 3 to 6 weeks. The outer skins will become papery, the necks will tighten up, and the roots will shrivel.
Final Trim: Once fully cured, trim the roots close to the bulb and cut the stalks down to about an inch above the bulb (unless you plan to braid them).
Store Properly: Keep your cured elephant garlic in a cool, dark, and dry place like a pantry or basement. Good air circulation is helpful, so mesh bags or woven baskets are ideal. Properly cured bulbs can last for 8-10 months.

Troubleshooting Common Harvest Issues

Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly. Here’s what to do.

Bulbs Split in Ground: Harvest immediately. Use these bulbs first, as they won’t store long. They are still perfectly good for eating right away or for processing into garlic paste for the freezer.
Mold or Rot Spots: If you see blue or black mold or soft spots during curing, remove those bulbs from the batch. Often this is caused by bruising or harvesting when too wet. Wipe off minor mold with a dry cloth, but use those bulbs soon.
Very Small Bulbs: This is usually due to overcrowding, insufficient nutrients, or harvesting far too early. Note it for next season and ensure you plant in fertile soil with good spacing.

FAQs: Your Elephant Garlic Questions Answered

Q: Can you eat elephant garlic right after harvest?
A: Yes, you can! It’s called “green garlic” and has a juicier, milder flavor. But it won’t store, so only dig what you’ll use in a few days.

Q: How do I know if its softneck or hardneck elephant garlic?
A: Most elephant garlic produces a hard central stalk (scape), classifying it as a hardneck type. If it doesn’t send up a scape, it’s a softneck variety.

Q: What happens if I leave the scape on?
A: The plant will put energy into making a flower and bulbils (tiny aerial cloves). This usually results in a smaller underground bulb, which is why gardeners remove them.

Q: My leaves are turning yellow early in spring. Is it ready?
A> Probably not. Early yellowing can be caused by stress like drought, nutrient deficiency, or pest issues. Unless it’s late summer, address those problems instead of harvesting.

Q: Can I use the same timing as my regular garlic?
A: Not exactly. Elephant garlic often takes a few weeks longer to mature than traditional garlic. Use the leaf clues for each plant type independently.

Mastering the harvest of elephant garlic is a rewarding skill. By paying close attention to the leaves, doing a test dig when in doubt, and following careful curing steps, you’ll be rewarded with a bountiful supply of mild, versatile garlic that lasts for months in your kitchen. The perfect harvest window is there for the taking, you just have to know what to look for.