Your beautiful potted tulips have finished their show, and you’re wondering what comes next. This guide will explain exactly what to do with potted tulips after they bloom to give them the best chance for future seasons. With the right care, you can often encourage these bulbs to bloom again, saving you money and extending the life of your spring favorites.
Many people treat potted tulips as annuals, tossing them after the flowers fade. But with a little effort, you can try to “perennialize” them, even in containers. The process is simple but requires patience and following a few key steps at the right time.
What To Do With Potted Tulips After They Bloom
The care you provide in the weeks after flowering is crucial. Your goal is to redirect the plant’s energy from making seeds back into the bulb itself, where it’s stored for next year’s growth. Here’s your immediate action plan.
Step 1: The “Deadheading” Priority
As soon as the tulip petals begin to wilt and fall, your first task is deadheading. This means removing the spent flower head.
* Why it matters: If you leave the flower head, the plant will put its energy into producing a seed pod. This drains resources from the bulb.
* How to do it: Simply snip off the faded flower head right below the base of the bloom. Be careful not to cut any of the leaves or stem yet. The green foliage is the solar panel for the bulb.
Step 2: Care for the Foliage
After deadheading, your pot will look like a bunch of green leaves. This is good! This phase is all about leaf care.
* Keep watering: Continue to water the pot when the soil feels dry to the touch. The leaves are still actively photosynthesizing.
* Provide light: Place the pot in a spot with bright, indirect light. A sunny windowsill is perfect.
* Apply fertilizer: This step is often missed but is vital. Use a liquid fertilizer high in potassium (like a tomato feed) or a balanced bulb fertilizer. Do this once a week for about 4-6 weeks after blooming. This feeding helps rebuild the bulb’s strength.
Step 3: The Natural Die-Back Process
Eventually, the leaves will start to turn yellow and then brown. This is a natural and necessary process.
* Do not cut green leaves: Resist the urge to tidy up by cutting the leaves while they are still green. You need to let them die back naturally.
* When they’re yellow/brown: Once the leaves have completely yellowed and are limp, you can gently tug them away from the bulb. They should detach easily. If they resist, they’re not ready yet.
Common Mistakes to Avoid Right Now
* Braiding or tying the leaves: This reduces the leaf surface area exposed to light, hindering energy production.
* Moving the pot to a dark corner: The plant needs light until the foliage dies back.
* Overwatering: Soggy soil can rot the bulbs. Water only as needed.
Your Two Main Paths Forward
Once the foliage has died back completely, you have a decision to make. You can either try to force the bulbs to rebloom in the pot, or you can transplant them to your garden. The second option has a much higher success rate.
Option A: Attempting Rebloom in the Same Pot
Getting a potted tulip to rebloom indoors is challenging. Tulips need a long, cold dormant period to reset their bloom cycle. Here’s how to try:
1. Stop watering completely once the foliage is dead.
2. Remove the bulbs from the dry soil. Gently brush off any dirt.
3. Inspect the bulbs. Discard any that are soft, moldy, or significantly smaller than when you planted them.
4. Let them cure in a cool, dry, and dark place (like a garage or basement) for a few days.
5. Store them properly. Place the bulbs in a mesh bag, paper bag, or a box with dry peat moss or sawdust.
6. Chill them. You must simulate winter. Store the bulbs in a refrigerator (away from fruits that emit ethylene gas) for a minimum of 12-16 weeks. Do not let them freeze.
7. Re-pot. After the chilling period, you can replant the bulbs in fresh potting mix, water them, and place them in a cool, bright location to hopefully trigger growth.
Option B: Transplanting to the Garden (Recommended)
This is the best method for long-term bulb health. The ground provides a more stable, natural environment for the dormancy cycle.
1. Wait for the right time. After foliage die-back, you can remove the bulbs from the pot. Cure and store them as described in steps 2-4 above, keeping them in a cool, dry spot.
2. Plant in the fall. The ideal time to plant them outside is in the autumn, when you would normally plant new tulip bulbs (usually September to November, before the ground freezes).
3. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil.
4. Plant at the proper depth. Dig a hole about 6-8 inches deep (about three times the height of the bulb). Place the bulb pointy-end up.
5. Cover with soil, water well, and mark the spot. Then, forget about them! They will naturalize and have a much better chance of blooming the following spring.
Why Potted Tulips Often Don’t Rebloom
It’s important to have realistic expectations. Even with perfect care, a potted tulip might not flower as vigorously in its second year. Here’s why:
* Energy depletion: The forcing process to get them to bloom for retail sale uses up a huge amount of the bulb’s stored energy.
* Container limitations: Pots restrict root growth and are subject to more extreme temperature and moisture fluctuations than the ground.
* Variety matters: Some tulip types (especially Darwin Hybrids) are better at coming back than others. Parrot or fringed tulips are less reliable.
Alternative: Treat Them as Annuals
There is no shame in this approach! If the process seems to complex, you can simply compost the spent plants and start fresh next year with new bulbs. Many gardeners prefer this for guaranteed vibrant color on their patio or table.
FAQ: Your After-Bloom Questions Answered
Q: Can I just leave the bulbs in the pot over summer?
A: You can, but it’s risky. The soil can become too wet or too hot, which may cause the bulbs to rot. It’s better to lift and store them.
Q: How long do I leave the leaves on after flowering?
A: Leave them until they are completely yellow and come away with a gentle pull. This usually takes 4-6 weeks after blooming.
Q: My tulip leaves are flopping over. Is that bad?
A: No, floppy leaves are normal as they begin to senesce (die back). Just ensure they are still getting light until they turn yellow.
Q: What do I feed potted tulips after they bloom?
A: A liquid fertilizer high in potassium or a balanced bulb fertilizer is ideal. This helps nourish the bulb for the next cycle.
Q: Can I plant my spent potted tulips in the ground in spring?
A: You can, but it’s not ideal. The bulbs will be confused by the season. It’s best to let them go dormant and store them for a fall planting. If you do plant them in spring, they likely won’t put up leaves until the following year.
Q: Why are my stored bulbs getting moldy?
A: They are likely too damp or in a humid storage location. Ensure they are fully dried before storing, and use a dry medium like peat moss or sawdust. Good air circulation is key.
Caring for your potted tulips after their bloom is a rewarding gardening project. By deadheading promptly, nurturing the foliage, and choosing a suitable path for dormancy, you give these wonderful bulbs a fighting chance. Whether you attempt to rebloom them or transfer them to a garden bed, you’re extending their life and getting more value from your initial purchase. Remember, success isn’t always a perfect repeat bloom; sometimes, it’s the learning and the effort that counts. With these steps, you’re well on your way to becoming a tulip care expert.