How To Get Rid Of Crabgrass In The Summer

If your lawn is looking messy with coarse, light green patches, you’re likely dealing with crabgrass. Learning how to get rid of crabgrass in the summer is a common challenge, but it’s absolutely possible with the right approach.

This guide gives you clear, effective summer lawn solutions. We’ll cover identification, removal methods, and how to prevent it from coming back.

Summer crabgrass control requires a two-part strategy: killing the existing plants and preventing new ones. The hot weather makes this tricky, but not impossible. Your main tools will be manual removal, careful herbicide use, and promoting thick grass growth.

Why Crabgrass Thrives in Summer Heat

Crabgrass is a summer annual weed. It loves heat, sun, and dry conditions. While your desirable cool-season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass or fescue are stressed and slowing down, crabgrass is hitting its peak.

It seeds prolifically in the fall. Those seeds lay dormant all winter and sprout when soil temperatures hit 55-60°F. By summer, the plants are large, established, and very noticeable.

Understanding this cycle is key. Summer action stops this year’s plants from making next year’s problem.

Correctly Identifying Crabgrass

Before you act, be sure it’s crabgrass. Here’s what to look for:

Growth Habit: It grows in a low, spreading clump, like a crab’s legs. The center is often bare.
Blades: Wide, light green blades that are coarser than typical lawn grass.
Stems: Reddish or purplish stems that root at the nodes where they touch the soil.
Seed Heads: In mid to late summer, it produces finger-like seed heads that resemble a tiny wheat stalk.

Mistaking other weeds for crabgrass can lead to using the wrong treatment. Take a close look.

Method 1: Manual Removal (Pulling by Hand)

For small infestations, pulling is the safest and most immediate solution.

Water First: Water the area lightly to soften the soil. This makes pulling easier.
Get the Roots: Use a weeding tool or your hands to grab the base of the clump. Pull steadily to get as much of the root system as possible. Crabgrass has a shallow, fibrous root system, so it often comes up easily.
Dispose: Place the pulled weeds in a bag for disposal. Do not compost them, as seeds may survive.
Reseed: After removal, sprinkle some grass seed on the bare spot and keep it moist to help your lawn fill in.

Method 2: Using Post-Emergent Herbicides

For larger areas, a herbicide may be necessary. In summer, you must choose carefully to avoid harming your lawn.

Selective Herbicides: Look for products containing quinclorac. It’s one of the most effective post-emergent controls for crabgrass and is generally safe for most common lawn grasses when used as directed.
Application Tips: Apply on a calm, cool morning when the crabgrass is actively growing. Ensure the weed is not drought-stressed. Follow the label’s mixing and safety instructions exactly.
Important Warning: Avoid herbicides containing glyphosate (like Roundup) on your lawn unless you are doing a complete renovation. It will kill your grass too.

Always check that the herbicide is labeled for use on your specific type of grass. Some products can damage certain lawns.

Spot Treatment vs. Broadcast Spraying

In summer, spot treatment is usually best. This means applying herbicide only to the crabgrass clumps. It minimizes chemical use and protects your healthy grass. Use a ready-to-use spray bottle for precision.

Broadcast spraying over the whole lawn is more for spring pre-emergent or for severe, widespread infestations.

Why “Weed and Feed” Isn’t a Summer Solution

Combination “Weed and Feed” products are popular, but they are not ideal for summer crabgrass control. They contain fertilizer meant for the growing season of your lawn grass.

Applying high-nitrogen fertilizer in the heat of summer can stress or even burn your cool-season lawn. It’s better to use a standalone post-emergent herbicide now and fertilize separately in the early fall.

What to Do After Killing Crabgrass

Once the crabgrass dies (it will turn brown and brittle), you’re left with a bare patch. This is a critical moment. Nature abhors a vacuum, and new weeds will move in if you don’t act.

Rake Out Debris: Gently rake the dead crabgrass to remove it and loosen the soil surface.
Overseed: Sprinkle a high-quality grass seed that matches your existing lawn. Choose a sun & shade mix if the area gets varied light.
Water Gently: Keep the seeded area consistently moist (not soggy) for 2-3 weeks until the new grass is established.

The Best Defense: A Thick, Healthy Lawn

The ultimate solution to crabgrass is a lawn so thick that weed seeds can’t reach the soil or get enough light to germinate. Here’s how to build that defense:

Mow High: Keep your mower blade set at 3-4 inches. Taller grass shades the soil, keeping it cooler and preventing crabgrass seeds from sprouting.
Water Deeply & Infrequently: Water your lawn thoroughly once or twice a week, encouraging deep grass roots. Shallow, daily watering benefits crabgrass.
Fertilize in Fall: The best time to feed cool-season grasses is early fall. This strengthens roots for the next year without promoting excessive top growth in the heat.
Aerate Annually: Core aeration in the fall reduces soil compaction, allowing air, water, and nutrients to reach grass roots more effectively.
Overseed Each Fall: This is your most powerful tool. Overseeding introduces new, vigorous grass plants to fill in thin areas.

Planning for Next Year: Pre-Emergent Herbicides

Your summer work sets the stage for next spring. To prevent a repeat problem, a pre-emergent herbicide is essential.

This product creates a barrier at the soil surface that stops seeds from sprouting. Timing is everything. Apply it in early spring, when soil temperatures are consistently around 55°F (often when forsythia blooms).

Common active ingredients include prodiamine and dithiopyr. Remember, if you plan to overseed in the fall, choose a product that won’t prevent grass seed germination.

Common Summer Crabgrass Control Mistakes

Avoid these pitfalls to save time and effort:

Mowing Too Short: Scalping your lawn invites crabgrass and stresses your grass.
Watering Too Often: Frequent, light watering encourages shallow crabgrass roots.
Ignoring Bare Spots: Leaving soil exposed after removal is an open invitation for new weeds.
Using the Wrong Herbicide: Always read the label for both the target weed and your grass type.
Giving Up: Crabgrass control is a multi-year process. Consistency is key.

Natural and Organic Approaches

If you prefer to avoid synthetic herbicides, you have options, though they require more persistence.

Corn Gluten Meal: This is a natural pre-emergent. Apply it in early spring. It inhibits seed germination but also contains nitrogen, so factor that into your fertilizing plan.
Boiling Water: Effective for spot treatment on driveways or sidewalks, but it will kill everything it touches, including grass.
Strong Vinegar Solutions: Horticultural vinegar (20-30% acetic acid) can burn down crabgrass but is non-selective and can be hazardous to handle. Household vinegar is usually to weak to be effective on mature plants.

The core of organic control is building healthy soil and dense turf through proper mowing, watering, and overseeding.

FAQ: Summer Crabgrass Questions Answered

Is it too late to spray for crabgrass in July or August?

It’s not to late if the plants are still green and haven’t produced mature seeds. However, effectiveness decreases as the plants mature. The primary goal becomes preventing seed production.

Will crabgrass die on its own in the winter?

Yes, the individual plants are killed by the first hard frost. But each plant can leave behind thousands of seeds that will sprout next spring, so letting it go is not a good strategy.

What kills crabgrass but not the lawn?

Selective post-emergent herbicides containing quinclorac, fenoxaprop, or mesotrione are designed to target crabgrass and other weeds while sparing common lawn grasses. Always verify the label.

Can I just mow crabgrass to control it?

Mowing it low won’t kill it, as it grows from a central crown. In fact, low mowing helps it by removing competition. However, frequent mowing can prevent seed heads from forming, which is a helpful tactic in late summer.

Why does my neighbor’s lawn not have crabgrass but mine does?

They are likely using a consistent pre-emergent program in spring and maintaining a thicker lawn through higher mowing and fall overseeding. Lawn history and soil conditions also play a role.

Your Seasonal Crabgrass Action Plan

To summarize, here is your year-round guide to a crabgrass-free lawn:

Spring (Prevention): Apply pre-emergent herbicide. Mow high. Begin deep watering.
Summer (Control): Hand-pull small patches. Use spot-treatment herbicides for larger ones. Immediately reseed bare areas. Continue mowing high.
Fall (Recovery & Strength): Aerate the lawn. Overseed heavily. Apply fertilizer. This is the most important season for lawn health.
Winter (Planning): Research and purchase your pre-emergent for spring.

Getting rid of crabgrass in the summer takes some work, but it’s a worthwhile investment in your lawn’s health. By combining immediate removal with long-term cultural practices, you can reclaim your green space. The goal is not just a crabgrass-free lawn this August, but a resilient turf that resists weeds for many seasons to come. Start with pulling those weeds today, and mark your calendar for fall overseeding—it’s your best path forward.