If you want to add serious vertical interest to your garden or indoor space, look no further than tall succulents. These towering and majestic varieties offer dramatic form with the same easy-care nature we love. They can act as living sculptures, create privacy screens, or become the stunning focal point your collection needs.
This guide will help you get to know the best types of tall succulents. We’ll cover their unique needs and how to help them thrive for years to come.
Types of Tall Succulents – Towering and Majestic Varieties
This group includes plants from many different genera and regions. What unites them is their ability to reach impressive heights, often several feet tall. Their structures can be tree-like, columnar, or elegantly sprawling.
Tree-Like and Branching Tall Succulents
These plants develop a woody trunk and branches, creating a true miniature tree appearance. They are perfect for adding structure to a succulent garden.
- Euphorbia trigona (African Milk Tree): This fast-grower has upright, triangular stems with small leaves. It can reach over 8 feet indoors. Handle with care, as its sap is toxic and irritating.
- Portulacaria afra (Elephant Bush): Features small, round, jade-green leaves on reddish-brown stems. It’s highly drought-tolerant and can be easily pruned into a tree shape. A great choice for bonsai.
- Adenium obesum (Desert Rose): Known for its spectacular flowers and thick, swollen caudex. It grows slowly but can become a beautiful, thick-trunked specimen over time.
Columnar and Upright Growers
These succulents grow straight up, forming striking columns or pillars. They make a bold architectural statement.
- Sansevieria trifasciata (Snake Plant): Certain varieties like ‘Laurentii’ or ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ can grow very tall, with stiff, upright leaves. They are famously low-light tolerant.
- Cereus peruvianus (Peruvian Apple Cactus): A blue-green columnar cactus that can grow exceptionally tall outdoors. It produces large, nocturnal flowers and edible fruit.
- Pachypodium lamerei (Madagascar Palm): Not a true palm, this plant has a silver, spiny trunk topped with a crown of long, green leaves. It’s very distinctive and can grow several feet tall.
Large Agave and Yucca Varieties
These rosette-forming giants are the centerpieces of arid landscapes. They command attention with their size and form.
- Agave americana (Century Plant): A massive agave with gray-green leaves that can span up to 10 feet wide. It sends up a towering flower spike, sometimes 20 feet high, at the end of its life.
- Yucca elephantipes (Spineless Yucca): A popular indoor and outdoor plant with a thick, woody cane and clusters of sword-like leaves. It’s very adaptable and can reach ceiling height indoors.
- Agave attenuata (Fox Tail Agave): Unlike most agaves, this one lacks sharp teeth. It forms a large, smooth rosette and produces a beautiful, curved flower stalk.
Care Guide for Your Tall Succulents
While resilient, these large plants have specific needs to support their size and prevent problems.
Light Requirements
Most tall succulents need abundant light to grow strong and avoid becoming leggy. A south or west-facing window is ideal indoors. If you’re moving a plant outside for summer, acclimate it slowly to full sun over a week or two to prevent sunburn. Rotate potted plants regularly for even growth.
Soil and Potting
Fast-draining soil is non-negotiable. Use a commercial cactus/succulent mix, or make your own with equal parts potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite or pumice. Choose a heavy, stable pot (like terracotta or ceramic) that is only slightly wider than the root ball. A pot that’s too large holds excess moisture. Ensure it has excellent drainage holes.
Watering Correctly
The “soak and dry” method is key. Water thoroughly until it runs out the drainage hole, then let the soil dry out completely before watering again. In winter, when growth slows, water much less frequently—sometimes only once a month. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill a succulent, leading to root rot.
Fertilizing for Growth
These plants are not heavy feeders. During the active growing season (spring and summer), you can feed them with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do this once a month at most. Do not fertilize in fall and winter.
Support and Stability
As your succulent gets taller, it may become top-heavy. If it starts to lean, stake it gently using a bamboo stick and soft plant ties. Repotting into a heavier, wider-based container can also improve stability. Sometimes you just need to turn the pot so it grows toward the light and straightens out.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even experienced gardeners face issues. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems with tall succulents.
- Leaning or Etiolation (Stretching): This is caused by insufficient light. The plant stretches toward the light source, becoming weak and leggy. Provide more direct sunlight or use a grow light. You can behead the plant and replant the top rosette.
- Soft, Mushy Stems or Leaves: A classic sign of overwatering. Stop watering immediately. Check the roots for rot (black and mushy). If rot is present, cut away all affected parts, let the healthy tissue callous over for a few days, and repot in fresh, dry soil.
- Brown, Dry Leaf Tips: Can be caused by underwatering, low humidity, or fertilizer burn. Check your watering schedule and ensure you’re soaking the soil thoroughly when you do water. Flush the soil with plain water if you suspect salt buildup from fertilizer.
- Pests: Watch for mealybugs (white, cottony spots) and scale (brown bumps). Treat with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or apply an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution.
Propagating Your Giants
Creating new plants from your tall succulents is rewarding. Methods vary by plant type.
- Stem Cuttings: Works for plants like Euphorbia trigona and Portulacaria. Use a clean, sharp knife to take a cutting. Let it callous for several days to a week before planting in dry soil. Don’t water until roots form.
- Offsets or Pups: Many agaves, aloes, and yuccas produce baby plants at their base. Gently separate these from the mother plant, ensuring they have some roots. Let any cuts dry, then pot them up individually.
- Leaf Cuttings: Not effective for most tall, stemmy varieties but works for some like the Snake Plant. Cut a leaf into sections, let them dry, and place them upright in soil.
- Seeds: A slow but fun method. Sow seeds on top of a well-draining mix, provide warmth and light, and keep barely moist. Patience is essential.
FAQ
What is the fastest growing tall succulent?
Euphorbia trigona (African Milk Tree) and some Opuntia (Prickly Pear) varieties are known for relatively fast vertical growth, especially with ample light and warmth.
Can tall succulents live indoors?
Absolutely. Many, like Snake Plants, Madagascar Palms, and Spineless Yuccas, are excellent indoor plants. Just provide the brightest light possible, often a south-facing window.
How often should I repot a large succulent?
Repot every 2-4 years, or when the plant becomes root-bound or too top-heavy for its pot. The best time is at the beginning of the active growing season (spring).
Why is my tall succulent getting thin at the top?
This is typically due to not enough direct sunlight. The plant is stretching. Gradually move it to a brighter location to encourage more compact, sturdy growth.
Are there cold-hardy tall succulent types?
Yes, some can tolerate frost. Certain Yucca species (like Yucca gloriosa) and Agave parryi can handle temperatures down to 0°F or lower with proper drainage. Always check the specific hardiness of your plant.
Incorporating tall succulents into your space adds an instant element of drama and beauty. With their sculptural forms and minimal demands, these plants offer a huge impact. By choosing the right variety for your conditions and following these simple care tips, you can enjoy these majestic plants for many years. Their striking presence is sure to be a conversation starter and a source of daily enjoyment in your home or garden.