How To Get Rid Of Lily Of The Valley

If you’re wondering how to get rid of lily of the valley, you’ve come to the right place. This charming plant with its sweet-smelling bells can quickly become a garden bully, spreading relentlessly through underground stems called rhizomes. Its beauty is deceptive, and removing it requires a persistent and strategic approach.

This guide will walk you through simple removal methods that actually work. We’ll cover everything from digging it out to controlling it organically. With the right technique, you can reclaim your garden beds.

Complete eradication is a marathon, not a sprint. Lily of the valley’s rhizome network is extensive and resilient. A single missed piece can sprout a new colony. The key is to combine methods and repeat treatments over a season or two.

First, identify the full extent of your infestation. Look for its broad, lance-shaped leaves, usually in pairs. In late spring, you’ll see the familiar stalks of white, bell-shaped flowers. Mark the entire area, even where plants look sparse.

Method 1: Manual Digging and Sifting

This is the most immediate but labor-intensive method. It’s best for smaller patches or when you want to avoid using any herbicides. You’ll need a few essential tools to do this job properly.

Gather a sturdy garden fork, a spade, a tarp or wheelbarrow, and a soil sifter. A garden fork is preferable to a shovel because it minimizes root cutting and helps lift the soil more effectively.

Step-by-Step Digging Process

Water the area thoroughly the day before. This softens the soil and makes digging easier.
Use the garden fork to loosen the soil in a wide berth around the plants. Start from the outer edge of the patch and work inward.
Gently lift large clumps of soil and rhizomes onto your tarp. Try to keep clumps intact to see the root network.
Shake and break apart the soil clumps over the tarp to expose the white, cord-like rhizomes.
For the final stage, sift the leftover soil on the tarp through a mesh screen to catch any small root fragments you missed.
Dispose of all plant material in sealed black plastic bags. Do not compost it, as the rhizomes can survive and spread.

Be prepared to repeat this process every few weeks as new sprouts inevitably appear. It’s a battle of attrition, but each digging session weakens the plants stored energy reserves.

Method 2: Smothering (Solarization and Mulching)

This method uses no chemicals and is effective for larger areas. It works by depriving the plants of light and oxygen. Solarization uses the sun’s heat to cook the roots, while deep mulching suffocates them.

Solarization Technique

This works best in full sun during the hottest months. You’ll need clear plastic sheeting (not black) and rocks or staples to secure it.

Mow or cut the lily of the valley foliage as low as possible.
Water the area deeply. The moisture helps conduct heat downward.
Cover the entire infested zone with a single sheet of clear plastic, ensuring it’s airtight at the edges.
Secure the plastic tightly with soil, rocks, or landscape staples.
Leave the plastic in place for 6-8 weeks during hot, sunny weather. The heat buildup will kill the rhizomes.

Deep Mulch Suffocation

If you don’t have strong sun, a deep mulch barrier can be effective. Use a thick layer of cardboard or newspaper topped with a heavy mulch.

Cut down the existing growth.
Overlap cardboard or 10+ sheets of newspaper over the entire area, blocking all light.
Soak the paper layer thoroughly to hold it in place and start the decomposition process.
Pile on 8-12 inches of a heavy mulch like wood chips or bark.
Leave this barrier for at least one full growing season, preferably two.

Method 3: Targeted Herbicide Use

For severe infestations, a systemic herbicide might be the most practical solution. These are absorbed by the leaves and travel to the roots. Glyphosate or a brush-killer formulation containing triclopyr can be effective.

Always use herbicides as a last resort and follow the label instructions precisely. Spot-treat to minimize impact on desirable plants nearby.

Application Tips for Best Results

Apply in late summer or early fall when plants are sending energy down to the roots.
Use a sponge brush or a shielded sprayer to apply glyphosate directly to the foliage of the lily of the valley, avoiding other plants.
Do not cut the leaves for at least a week after application; the chemical needs time to translocate.
You will likely need 2-3 applications over two seasons for complete control.

Remember that persistence is crucial. Even with herbicides, you may need to follow up with digging on any remaining sprouts. Combining methods often yields the fastest results.

Preventing Regrowth and Spread

Once you’ve cleared the main infestation, vigilance is your new best friend. Lily of the valley can lay dormant and reappear when you least expect it. A few simple habits will protect your hard work.

First, monitor the area weekly during the growing season. The moment you see a familiar leaf spear, dig it out immediately, getting as much of the root as you can. Early intervention is far easier than letting it re-establish.

Consider installing a vertical root barrier around garden beds if the invasion came from a neighboring property. Sink galvanized metal edging or a similar solid barrier at least 10 inches deep to block the rhizomes.

Finally, be patient with yourself and the process. Eradicating a tenacious perennial like lily of the valley is a significant achievement. It may take a full year or more of management before you can declare victory.

What to Do With the Removed Plants

Proper disposal is critical. Never toss lily of the valley rhizomes into your compost pile or green waste bin. The high heat of a commercial composting facility is needed to destroy them.

Place all plant parts—roots, leaves, stems—into heavy-duty black plastic bags. Seal the bags tightly and leave them in full sun for several weeks to bake. After this, you can dispose of them with your regular household trash.

Another option is to drown them. Submerge the rhizomes in a bucket of water, cover it, and let it sit for several months until the material rots into a slurry. This is effective but can be odorous.

FAQs on Removing Lily of the Valley

Is lily of the valley hard to get rid of?

Yes, it is notoriously difficult due to its aggressive rhizome system. It requires consistent, repeated efforts over time. There’s rarely a quick fix.

Will vinegar kill lily of the valley?

Household vinegar may burn the top growth, but it will not kill the deep rhizomes. It’s a temporary solution at best and can harm soil health. For a non-chemical approach, smothering is far more reliable.

How deep do the roots go?

The rhizomes typically grow in the top 6-10 inches of soil, but they can go deeper in loose, rich earth. This is why digging must be thorough and deep.

Can I just keep cutting it back?

Repeatedly cutting or mowing it down will eventually weaken the plant by depriving it of sunlight. However, this method alone can take several years to be successful and requires extreme diligence.

Are the berries poisonous?

Yes, all parts of the lily of the valley plant are highly toxic, including the red berries it produces in late summer. This is another good reason for removal, especially in gardens used by children or pets. Always wear gloves when handling the plants.

What should I plant after removal?

Once you’re confident the area is clear, you can replant. Consider robust perennials that can compete, like hostas, ferns, or astilbe. Annuals are also a safe choice for the first season as you watch for any regrowth.